Boostlogic Turbo Kit Install Problems NA-T Guys HELP!
Boostlogic Turbo Kit Install Problems NA-T Guys HELP!
Here are the problems that the shop is running into on the Boostlogic Stage 1 Turbo Kit install on my 1997 SC300 5-speed:
1) The intercooler brackets need to be cut and rewelded due to fitment problems.
2) The wastegate dumptube was constructed in such a fashion that the hardware cannot be successfully installed.
3) The shop says that they would need to tap the oil pan which requires a whole lot of removal of other parts or they can tap the block directly (this one confused me a little during the shop's explanation so that might not be completely accurate).
Anyone who has a boostlogic turbo kit can you please tell me if you had any issues with the install. I've read a lot of posts and found nothing but satisfied boostlogic customers which is one of the reasons I chose this kit.
I'm thinking that maybe they sent me the kit for the MKIV Supra instead of the SC. I'm not sure. Any ideas of why this is happening or what you think I should do would be helpful. Let me know ASAP as the car is just sitting at the shop awaiting my decision. Thanks in advance to all that help out.
1) The intercooler brackets need to be cut and rewelded due to fitment problems.
2) The wastegate dumptube was constructed in such a fashion that the hardware cannot be successfully installed.
3) The shop says that they would need to tap the oil pan which requires a whole lot of removal of other parts or they can tap the block directly (this one confused me a little during the shop's explanation so that might not be completely accurate).
Anyone who has a boostlogic turbo kit can you please tell me if you had any issues with the install. I've read a lot of posts and found nothing but satisfied boostlogic customers which is one of the reasons I chose this kit.
I'm thinking that maybe they sent me the kit for the MKIV Supra instead of the SC. I'm not sure. Any ideas of why this is happening or what you think I should do would be helpful. Let me know ASAP as the car is just sitting at the shop awaiting my decision. Thanks in advance to all that help out.
Lexus Champion
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,070
Likes: 2
From: Tampa, FL
The intercooler brackets shouldnt be a big deal to modify...
As for the dump tube, is it hitting the abs unit? Can they shorten the length of the dump tube and get it to fit?
You are bolting up a turbo kit to an n/a car. Or course your going to need to get an oil line tapped from the block.
Seems like this shop you brought your car to is pretty incompetent
As for the dump tube, is it hitting the abs unit? Can they shorten the length of the dump tube and get it to fit?
You are bolting up a turbo kit to an n/a car. Or course your going to need to get an oil line tapped from the block.
Seems like this shop you brought your car to is pretty incompetent
. Do NOT tap the engine block, there is an outline for the oil return hole on the UPPER oil pan...all the details with pictures are on www.clubna-t.com. So, drill and tap the upper oil pan, NOT the engine block.
Yeah, we are going to drill and tap the upper oil pan, but what all has to be moved in order to get that done. They are saying it's a whole lot of work to get to it. The other things aren't that much work to modify (dump tube and intercooler), but I was under the impression that they wouldn't need to be and I've never heard others say that their boostlogic kit had to be altered so I wondered why mine does.
I had NO issues whatsoever with the fmic, piping, turbo, manifold, exhaust piping, wastegate/dump tube, oil lines- etc.. but I'm running a daveH kit.
i do, however, have a BoostLogic FMIC. Mine bolted up perfectly, all I had to do was trim off some of the plastic inner fender things.
This is where you make a hole for the oil return line. Even a blind person could notice it
I'd switch shops- or do the work yourself.. it's not that difficult.
-Allen
i do, however, have a BoostLogic FMIC. Mine bolted up perfectly, all I had to do was trim off some of the plastic inner fender things.
This is where you make a hole for the oil return line. Even a blind person could notice it
I'd switch shops- or do the work yourself.. it's not that difficult.
-Allen
BLK97SC300 I pmed you about a specific question.
Eveyone: Should the oil pan be able to be tapped without a lot of disassembly of other parts (the front suspension for example, etc.)? Please help me out!
Eveyone: Should the oil pan be able to be tapped without a lot of disassembly of other parts (the front suspension for example, etc.)? Please help me out!
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Lead Lap
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 545
Likes: 0
From: Florida
I have to take a look at the oil pan and see what might be in the way. It's normally a 2.8 hour job to remove and replace the oil pan on a SC300. With that in mind, the right way to drill and tap an oil pan would be to take the pan off and do it with the pan off of the vehicle.
In short, they should not charge you more then 2.8 hours to remove and replace the oil pan. I would say it would be average to charge you another hour to drill and tap the pan.
All in all, if they are charging you more then 3.8 hours, you are getting ripped, but if it's right around that, you are OK.
In short, they should not charge you more then 2.8 hours to remove and replace the oil pan. I would say it would be average to charge you another hour to drill and tap the pan.
All in all, if they are charging you more then 3.8 hours, you are getting ripped, but if it's right around that, you are OK.
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