can't go in 2nd unless warms up...
can't go in 2nd unless warms up...
why do i need to warm up (at least 5mins.) the car just so i can shift to 2nd gear everytime? if i don't warm it up then it won't go in gear, is that normal, or is something wrong?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Ohio
what do you have, an auto or a manual? what are the weather conditions? does this always happen? if you want a question answered you need to give more details. i can tell you that it burns when i pee but that wont give you any background into helping figure out why....
If it's an auto it's supposed to do that. The car has built into the computer to not allow for shifts until it's warmed up. I think it has something to do with improperly lubed parts (not warmed up yet) spun in the higher gears could probably break them. Imagine if the higher gears didn't have enough oil to them to be used properly yet and all of a sudden the gear gets switched without oil. Crunch.
It's always best to give your car a good warm up anyway, in any weather. And by warm up I mean the idle sits at normal idle. This depends on how recently the car was driven, weather, etc.
It's always best to give your car a good warm up anyway, in any weather. And by warm up I mean the idle sits at normal idle. This depends on how recently the car was driven, weather, etc.
If it's an auto it's supposed to do that. The car has built into the computer to not allow for shifts until it's warmed up. I think it has something to do with improperly lubed parts (not warmed up yet) spun in the higher gears could probably break them. Imagine if the higher gears didn't have enough oil to them to be used properly yet and all of a sudden the gear gets switched without oil. Crunch.
It's always best to give your car a good warm up anyway, in any weather. And by warm up I mean the idle sits at normal idle. This depends on how recently the car was driven, weather, etc.
It's always best to give your car a good warm up anyway, in any weather. And by warm up I mean the idle sits at normal idle. This depends on how recently the car was driven, weather, etc.
of course, I don't get on it, just cruise (modern cars don't need to be warmed up to drive normally), and the trans shifts fine...
my bad people, it's a 5 speed...just curious, every other 5 speed car i've driven doesn't do what it does to my sc300 even when it's not warmed up. still kinda new to lexus but i'm pretty sure there is still plenty of fluids left (is it the one next to the firewall on the driver side where you pour clutch fluids?)
my bad people, it's a 5 speed...just curious, every other 5 speed car i've driven doesn't do what it does to my sc300 even when it's not warmed up. still kinda new to lexus but i'm pretty sure there is still plenty of fluids left (is it the one next to the firewall on the driver side where you pour clutch fluids?)
here's what I would do:
drain your transmission, and refill with a good trans fluid - I've always had great luck with BG Syncroshift 2, but there are lots of good options... once done with this, drain your clutch fluid, and replace with some good high performance brake fluid, again, lots of good options... make sure you bleed the clutch slave cylinder well, then go from there...
how are the rest of your gears? any grinds, notchiness or anything???
trans fluid is entirely separate and different from clutch fluid that you are referring to...
here's what I would do:
drain your transmission, and refill with a good trans fluid - I've always had great luck with BG Syncroshift 2, but there are lots of good options... once done with this, drain your clutch fluid, and replace with some good high performance brake fluid, again, lots of good options... make sure you bleed the clutch slave cylinder well, then go from there...
how are the rest of your gears? any grinds, notchiness or anything???
here's what I would do:
drain your transmission, and refill with a good trans fluid - I've always had great luck with BG Syncroshift 2, but there are lots of good options... once done with this, drain your clutch fluid, and replace with some good high performance brake fluid, again, lots of good options... make sure you bleed the clutch slave cylinder well, then go from there...
how are the rest of your gears? any grinds, notchiness or anything???
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on the side...
there is a drain plug on the bottom, drain that entirely (I even run a bit of new through to flush it out), reinstall the drain plug (27 ft-lbs), and add about 2.7 qts through the side plug... fill until it pours out (full is level with the bottom of the fill plug)... again, should take 2.7 quarts of "API GL-4 or GL-5 grade, 75w-90 or 80W-90 weight"
there is a drain plug on the bottom, drain that entirely (I even run a bit of new through to flush it out), reinstall the drain plug (27 ft-lbs), and add about 2.7 qts through the side plug... fill until it pours out (full is level with the bottom of the fill plug)... again, should take 2.7 quarts of "API GL-4 or GL-5 grade, 75w-90 or 80W-90 weight"
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From: GA
in addition I would inspect your clutch lines. this happened to me one morning, i couldnt get out of reverse (I leave the car in gear when I turn it off) and couldnt put it into gear. Turned out all my clutch fluid was gone, and had to bleed it quickly so I could make it to work on time. Later I saw the lines were sweating, so going to replace them with a stainless steel braided line.
um, even when it's freezing outside, I can jump in my car, turn the ignition, and it be ready to shift as soon as it needs to, with absolutely 0 warm up at all...
of course, I don't get on it, just cruise (modern cars don't need to be warmed up to drive normally), and the trans shifts fine...
of course, I don't get on it, just cruise (modern cars don't need to be warmed up to drive normally), and the trans shifts fine...
I hope it's not my tranny dying.
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