Over the weekend, I replaced the factory 10" sub and amplifier on my 97 SC300. I used the factory wires for powering my amplifier. It wasn't that big of a pain to get to it. Did the whole job in about 4 hours. But all in all, I think it was worth it.

I installed a 400W Pioneer 10" free-air subwoofer -- I don't remember the exact model. The mounting depth is at the maximum, i.e. the speaker sits right on top of the gas tank when mounted. I imagine with a few washers, I can raise the magnet higher, because the speaker itself has some clearance on the top side.

To get to the amplifier and speaker easily, you will need remove the rear seat. Remove the bottom section first by pulling up from the front. Then it just slides out. The back portion of the seat can be removed once you unbolt the three volts at the bottom -- 12mm. Remove the subwoofer cover/third brake light by lifting up from the front and sliding forward towards you. Pop off the two reardeck cover fasteners using a screwdriver and lift the reardeck cover. You should have access to the factory sub and amplifier. They are both removed with a 10mm socket. I found it was easy to remove the rear subwoofer bolts using a universal joint.

Once you have the subwoofer out, you cannot remove the driver itself from the bracket without destrying it. You must take off the top plastic ring to get to the screws. Once you do that, the speaker is trashed. I kept the bottom plastic peice of the mounting bracket, because I used the same screw holes.

Anyway, I removed the amplifier wire harness and figured out the wire schematic. For my car, 1997 SC300, the following is true:

small purple wire -- subwoofer signal negative
small light-blue wire -- subwoofer signal positive
large red -- 12 volts positive
large purple -- 12 volts amplifier remote turn-on
all black -- ground
-- all others are not used --

I took the subwoofer signal and wired them to a set of RCA jacks for use with the amplifier. I used the battery lead and remote turn-on for the amplifier also. The ground wires, I left intact, just in case it was used for something else. I grounded my amplifier separately. After all this was done, I re-installed the "gutted" factory amplifier in its original place to complete the sealed trunk area.

Now my system rocks. And no, I have not replaced the factory surround speakers yet.

 

Hey,

That was really helpful. I appreciate your post. I was looking into doing this, but I don't know much about car stereo. This helps. What kind of amp did you use? Model?

How much did all of this cost for you? Thanks a lot!

 

I used an Orion Cobalt amplifier ... didn't remember the model number either. But it pumps out 240 watts bridged.

The sub costed me $79 plus tax. I had the amplifier and all other parts, such as wires, screws, etc, from before. Depending on which amp you use, it shouldn't cost you more than $300 total.