Well I've extended the wiring harness of the cabin 1jz harness and I can't help but notice that there are like 40 more wires than I have now. The plugs are identical but the wiring colors and location are all over the place. I'm a bit concerned. I've got an auto 1jz going into a 93 manual SC300 so I know there will be extra wires but still it seems like a lot. I've got pictures to show what I'm talking about if anyone has any first hand experience.

 

from what i understand..everything should work just by plugging it in except for the neutral start switch...40 more wires sounds kinda scary tho. hopefully somebody else knows more about it than i do. if you have a chance, id like to see the pictures..because i'll be doing the same exact thing you are either end of this month/beginning of july

 

40 may be more of an exaggeration, perhaps 20 or more but still the color codes don't match and there will be some empty pins on the male side. The neutral switch is already taken care of.

Here is the 1JZ

Here is the SC with a lot less wires and different color codes.

 

have you checked the diagrams?...the soarer diagrams are located at this site: http://www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html ....bottom right..theyre in pdf format...kinda confusing tho...and i think i have the sc diagrams somewhere if you need

 

Yeah Iooked at those but my Japanese is a bit rusty and they are way confusing. I guess I'm looking for re-assurance before I take a day off work to do the swap that this will work. I'm sure it will start and run but I need A/C out here it's over 100 every day from here on out.

 

yeah...its a must that all the options in the car work for me also...like the a/c and the cruise....im pretty sure it should work fine tho. i checked this post someone made about the wiring https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=163211 ...and it says that orange connector is for the gauges and diagnostic connector...im gonna try to look at those 1j diagrams tonight and see if i can trace where those wires go...

 

i found the plugs in the drawing part of the diagrams....but the schematics!....man i wish i could read japenese....reading those schematics is not easy

 

there will be no problem with plugging in the harness as is. it looks odd, but will not affect anything. we did the same thing with matts swap. how did you address the issue with the NSS?

 

Solder the black and black with white wire coming off the harness going to the auto trans for NSS. The guy I bought it from has done this swap and told that will do the trick. Just don't leave the car in gear obviously.

As long as the A/C works I can figure the rest out later. No A/C means no car out here in summer.

 

has anyone looked at the post on the 1jz swap guide i posted? the NSW answer is there. and yes you are going to see alot less wires on the USDM side.

 

It's the open pins on the USDM side that bother me. There is this soarer guide I found for the wiring that I was considering.

 

the open pins you need not worry about. those are for TEMS and TRC. if your car doesnt have it then those slots arent filled. essentially i have posted everything you need to get it running. The plugs are just labeld differently which i have compensated for by placing the 2 ID's together. i have all the wiring info necessary to complete this swap and had boiled it all down to wat was posted. i have also seen numerous threads asking the same question over and over again and the answers are all here. if its unclear feel free to call me for clarification. 360-981-0918

 

Well the NSS got me. I would have switched the pins as you suggested but that is pointless at this juncture. The only pigtail on the entire engine that was cut goes to the trans. I figured out the speed sensor and I know that one of the wires for the NSS is black with a white stripe. It goes to the ECU. What is the other color needed to wire this up? Then I can switch the pins.

 

Nevermind, I'll get under there with a test light and the key turned and I'll let you guys know.

 

if you got a minute call me