When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
i figured maybe if i left it on, and drove like granny, nothing would change. I wouldnt be flooring it or anything so i think maybe gas mileage wise, it all depends on the driver and how hard he's driving the car
i just got my #3 selenoid fixed, prepare for some deep pocketing man, 1700 dollars canadian man, took it to mister transmission. now it rides like a baby. any ideas why this happened anyway?
i just got my #3 selenoid fixed, prepare for some deep pocketing man, 1700 dollars canadian man, took it to mister transmission. now it rides like a baby. any ideas why this happened anyway?
What was wrong with the selenoid, and how was the transmission behaving before the repair?
What was wrong with the selenoid, and how was the transmission behaving before the repair?
-=Photon=-
The car would **** from 1 to 2 then to 4 then 5 which is over drive
now from 1 to 2 would be instantly, like with in 2 seconds and if you wnated to pass on the highway, there was no such a thing as downshifting cause it was missing the third gear. the engine light was on and the tester said engine selenoid sensor. Now it drives like a baby, i love my car
i just took apart my ect button and noticed the bulbs were burnt inside. and i wanted to make sure how many were n there.
there are 2 small bulns and they are the twist out type. they are smaller than the ons in the a/c unit but a little bigger than the hazard light bulb. i want to know what the part n8umber is for the ect button bulbs? any ideas?
thanks
i just took apart my ect button and noticed the bulbs were burnt inside. and i wanted to make sure how many were n there.
there are 2 small bulns and they are the twist out type. they are smaller than the ons in the a/c unit but a little bigger than the hazard light bulb. i want to know what the part n8umber is for the ect button bulbs? any ideas?
thanks
Remember too that the ECU, which controls engine and transmission, uses fuzzy logic to "learn" your driving style. If you drive with a heavy foot, you'll notice less difference with the ECT switch in PWR or NORM. Disconnect the battery for about half an hour and the ECU will reset and will re-learn your habits the next few times you drive the car.
I don't get aggressive in town, but when I want to carve some twisties I flip the switch to PWR. It raises the shift points on upshift and downshift, and YES if you run at higher revs a lot you WILL burn more gas!
Also, in the NORM mode, the ECU slightly closes the throttle when the trans shifts, resulting in a smoother shift, and that also happens on upshifts and downshifts - hence the lag in throttle response when you stab it hard. In the PWR mode, the shifts seem crisper, so I think (don't know for sure) the throttle setting isn't retarded when the trans shifts.
With stock wheels/tires, I get 16-18 in town and 24 mpg on the road. In my previous SC4, when I got Supra TT rims and wider tires, my highway mileage went from 24 to 21. The extra rolling resistance from the larger contact patch cost me 15% in fuel economy.
My MPG says I'm averaging 23.2 mpg (city and mostly highway mixed) plus I've got 20's and my spedo is off nearly a full 10th, so figure about 24-25mpg actual right? This is with ECT on all the time, I never really turn it off, but I don't drive with a heavy foot shy of an occasional stab on an on-ramp or something.
off. if i need to down shift i do it my self.... plus most of the time i try to save some gas... am averaging 18.3 mpg.. so anywhere i can save some gas i try.
i dont use mine but my wife has a bad habbit of using it since guys are testing are sc calling it a peice of crap she uses to kill hondas and any other car but dont notice any differences in driving