yeah soarer ecu's top out at about that.. there's a few ways around it..







side note, my trans issue was a severed wire.

yea my mph on my gauge cluster is broke and for whatever reason that bypasses the speed cut at 118, if you could figure out what wire goes to your ecu from your cluster and cut and tape it your ecu would probably be tricked.

Can anyone provide a picture of the 1JZ from a few different angles? I'm curious as to where all the plugs and hoses connect. I especially need one of the drivers side. Thanks.
And also, I got an automatic swap and am using it with my w58, which of the two small black transmission wires go to the second plug on the tranny? There are two that look exactly the same, but I don't know which one I should plug into the smaller plug?

so i an having the same issue with the sputtering a wot. everything is stock except a 3 inch down pipe. anyone ever figure this out? also will the 12 volt mod on the ecu help this maybe?

Bumping a nice Thread

I have a 92 SC300 with a 1JZ and W58 car runs perfect but needed some body work and paint job, so i end up buying my Friend 95 SC3 and swapped everything over after the swap the car ran ok ,so a few days ago it started to stall out on me or the RPM will drop to 100 /200 RPM at idle sometimes i have to stay on the Gas so it can Idle.
It runs fine when i first in the morning and after 15 min of driving it will start to the idling issue Please any help will be appreciated Thanks in Advance.

If it's a low steady idle the throttlebody is dirty & just needs to be cleaned.
Disconnect the battery to reset the ECU.

If the idle is rolling/ surging, the TPS is out of adjustment.

I cleaned the whole intake manifold and TB before installing the Engine the first time it's been about 45 days.
I will try the TPS and see what happen thanks man

I recently had the exact same issue as you. The idle would drop to 400-500 RPM range and a couple of times, the car stalled out. I took out the Idle Speed Control Valve and cleaned it up a bit although it wasn't that bad.

One observation I have is that I can turn off the AC and turn it back on and the idle will jump back to where it needs to be. But after a few rev-outs, it will fall back. On one occassion, I just let the car idle and it actually creaped up back to 700-800 RPMs.

My next thing to try is to clean the TB and fart around with the TPS.

Here is my issue right now won't rev over 1600rpm. It did this when I first fired it up before I had a tach line hooked up to it. Then with a tach line into the diag port it revved and drove beautifully. now it is back to the 1600 cut. WTF- So now I am looking at hooking the external tach line to the igniter tach output and going from there. Looking for a pinout right now.

1JZ Swap Tip

Here's something you need to do during the swap when you can remove the intake or get to the cam sensors easily.

Remove the cam sensors(2x10mm)they just slide out of the head.
Take some FPIG gasket goo and make a small seal where the metal and plastic meet at the flange on the sensor and let it dry.

This will block the oil from coming up through the sensor housing and into the cam sensor wiring. It CAN work itself back to the ECU. Mine was doing this. A Japanese JZ genious off Supraforums confirmed this does actually happen. It doesn't cause a short, but will leak oil onto the ecu board if bad enough.

This will also remedy a potential oil leak onto the intake where it pools up nicely.

It start doing the same thing again this morning !!!
Will ignition coils from camry or avalon work with the 1JZ ? if not which toyota Coils will work?
I know the supra will work .
When it gets hot in the engine, it will start to break up sound like a popcorn machine and will idle at 100RPM.

So she ran perfect this morning no idling issue .

I think we both have ECU issues. I will have another ECU for when I get back to check it out with. Until then good luck man. Happy boosting.

What changed?

removed the twins (since the motor is not installed yet) to install the aftermarket Y pipe and unfortunately, one of the exhaust studs on the rear turbo housing snapped. So it doesn't clear to get a nut on it. Anyone know if a local auto store carries these or possibly driftmotion? hmmmm.. I will check them out and update.. BRB... lol


stud size is 10mmx1.25

The ones that DM, are the right ones. May just end using a bolt instead of replacing the stud.

-Jae