Sway bars for SC-400
I can't find any recent activity on this topic, so here goes.
Does anyone have any experience and comments about the various sway bars available?
So far I have only found 2 makes, Whiteline and Daizen.
I emailed both a few days ago for more information, have so far only had a reply from Whiteline.
The whiteline bars are solid, heavy and adjustable, the stiffness increase on O***s being:
Front - 20-40%
Rear - 60-100%
Would anyone have the figures for the Daizen bars?
There was a thread about 2 years ago where Daizen claimed 100% increase for front and rears using a hollow bar. Mention was also made of TRD bars, but I suspect they are no longer available.
I am looking to keep the inside rear more on the ground powering out of corners, so a stiffer front would be more important than a stiffer rear.
Any comments or suggestions welcome.
Does anyone have any experience and comments about the various sway bars available?
So far I have only found 2 makes, Whiteline and Daizen.
I emailed both a few days ago for more information, have so far only had a reply from Whiteline.
The whiteline bars are solid, heavy and adjustable, the stiffness increase on O***s being:
Front - 20-40%
Rear - 60-100%
Would anyone have the figures for the Daizen bars?
There was a thread about 2 years ago where Daizen claimed 100% increase for front and rears using a hollow bar. Mention was also made of TRD bars, but I suspect they are no longer available.
I am looking to keep the inside rear more on the ground powering out of corners, so a stiffer front would be more important than a stiffer rear.
Any comments or suggestions welcome.
don't mean to sound like an @!$$ but search button
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...aizen+sway+bar
Front bar, 35mm - approx 83% stiffer than stock
Rear bar, 29mm 3-way adjustable - approx 98% stiffer than stock
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...aizen+sway+bar
Front bar, 35mm - approx 83% stiffer than stock
Rear bar, 29mm 3-way adjustable - approx 98% stiffer than stock
Thanks for the input guys.
LexAnt, thanks for that link, I thought I had searched thoroughly, but I missed that one, probably didn't refine my serach enough and got too much information that wasn't relevant.
I also just had a reply from Diazen, but they politely avoided any mention of actual figures or comparison of stiffness.
The Whiteline thread from 2002 mentioned "a little over 100% increase in stiffness" which is close-ish to the figures you found.
However I would really like to increase the stiffness at the front more than at the rear to reduce the rear inside lift that I get now.
Possibly the way to go for me, might be to leave the stock rear bar on and just upgrade the front.
Time for more research!
LexAnt, thanks for that link, I thought I had searched thoroughly, but I missed that one, probably didn't refine my serach enough and got too much information that wasn't relevant.
I also just had a reply from Diazen, but they politely avoided any mention of actual figures or comparison of stiffness.
The Whiteline thread from 2002 mentioned "a little over 100% increase in stiffness" which is close-ish to the figures you found.
However I would really like to increase the stiffness at the front more than at the rear to reduce the rear inside lift that I get now.
Possibly the way to go for me, might be to leave the stock rear bar on and just upgrade the front.
Time for more research!
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RTLEXSC, can you do something for me in the interests of research?
Go for a hammer on your favourite track or twisty bit of safe road, feel how the car rolls, and see if you can find a tight enough bend to lift the inside rear wheel so it spins as you power out of corners. Note how fast you are doing on that specific bend to cause wheel spin.
Please however, don't put yourself or anyone else at risk, use a track if that is available.
Then, fit just the front bar and try it again. See how much difference it makes to the ride etc, but also mainly to how well it handles that specific bend again at the same speed.
Then fit the rear bar and repeat the excercise.
My thinking is that if the rear bar is actually stiffer than the front, it will cause more rear lift and loss of traction on tight corners and you may in fact be better off with the stock rear bar.
One track day I dis-connected one side on the rear sway bar and tied it up out the way, and it definitely allowed the rear wheel to hang down a bit more with increased traction out of tight corners.
Of course this is all a different ball game if you have LSD or use TRC - I have neither.
If you don't have access to a track or really safe bit of road, or if you don't feel comfortable with the situatiuon, then please don't try this, it isn't worth getting bent over.
But I would really like to know
Go for a hammer on your favourite track or twisty bit of safe road, feel how the car rolls, and see if you can find a tight enough bend to lift the inside rear wheel so it spins as you power out of corners. Note how fast you are doing on that specific bend to cause wheel spin.
Please however, don't put yourself or anyone else at risk, use a track if that is available.
Then, fit just the front bar and try it again. See how much difference it makes to the ride etc, but also mainly to how well it handles that specific bend again at the same speed.
Then fit the rear bar and repeat the excercise.
My thinking is that if the rear bar is actually stiffer than the front, it will cause more rear lift and loss of traction on tight corners and you may in fact be better off with the stock rear bar.
One track day I dis-connected one side on the rear sway bar and tied it up out the way, and it definitely allowed the rear wheel to hang down a bit more with increased traction out of tight corners.
Of course this is all a different ball game if you have LSD or use TRC - I have neither.
If you don't have access to a track or really safe bit of road, or if you don't feel comfortable with the situatiuon, then please don't try this, it isn't worth getting bent over.
But I would really like to know
Last edited by Pen; Oct 19, 2004 at 05:36 PM.
The Daizen rear sway bars are adjustable for oversteer or understeer depending on your preference. So it would all come down to how good of a tire you got on the rims. Best to my attempts, I have never gotten the inner rear tire to lift up, and I've taken some 90degree turns (street turns, yes i kno stupid, only did late late at night) and didn't get it to rise, i think i was going about 35mph on that turn, probably could've gone faster but i was already at the **** my pants stage. if i have the guts one day, i'm gonna try and see just how fast i can go before the tail end breaks loose.
Hmm.. naughty hehehe..
When you get skid marks in your pants instead of on the road, then you really shouldn't be doing it
It's not a matter of trying to lose the backend. That can be achieved easily enough, eg wet, bit too fast into a corner, bit too much power coming out. A good formula for an accident in fact.
On the track though, coming out of a tight bend with full power, the weight of the car is thrown to the outside (body roll), causing the inside to become light hence wheelspin from the inside wheel.
With crappy tyres you would probably just slide, but good sticky track tyres allow much higher lateral G-forces as the tyres keep gripping and the body roll becomes more pronounced.
With a standard diff, as the car leans more, the inside wheel will have less weight on the road, and can then start to spin with loss of power to the road. The outside wheel which now has a lot of weight on it, will keep the car in line however, just won't be applying much power due to the diff allowing the inside wheel to spin.
So, increased sway bar stiffness at the front will help keep the front of the car flat and push more weight back to the inside of the car. It does this by effectively pushing the outside wheel down and lifting the inside wheel. The same thing happens with the rear if you make that stiffer, but because you are trying to drive with the rear wheels, while it's nice to have the reduced body roll, it's counter productive if you can't put the power to the road.
So yeah, losing the back end and losing power out of corners are not the same thing :-)
Again, please don't try this unless you are on a track or similar.
When you get skid marks in your pants instead of on the road, then you really shouldn't be doing it

It's not a matter of trying to lose the backend. That can be achieved easily enough, eg wet, bit too fast into a corner, bit too much power coming out. A good formula for an accident in fact.
On the track though, coming out of a tight bend with full power, the weight of the car is thrown to the outside (body roll), causing the inside to become light hence wheelspin from the inside wheel.
With crappy tyres you would probably just slide, but good sticky track tyres allow much higher lateral G-forces as the tyres keep gripping and the body roll becomes more pronounced.
With a standard diff, as the car leans more, the inside wheel will have less weight on the road, and can then start to spin with loss of power to the road. The outside wheel which now has a lot of weight on it, will keep the car in line however, just won't be applying much power due to the diff allowing the inside wheel to spin.
So, increased sway bar stiffness at the front will help keep the front of the car flat and push more weight back to the inside of the car. It does this by effectively pushing the outside wheel down and lifting the inside wheel. The same thing happens with the rear if you make that stiffer, but because you are trying to drive with the rear wheels, while it's nice to have the reduced body roll, it's counter productive if you can't put the power to the road.
So yeah, losing the back end and losing power out of corners are not the same thing :-)
Again, please don't try this unless you are on a track or similar.
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