Nitrous questions
First I'll address the exploding bottle issue. Keeping in mind people still see Elvis, have Big Foot sightings, and are reguarly abducted by aliens. In other words, I call bullsh!t.
Legal and pubically sold Nitrous bottles all must have a blow off plate (valve). Its a copper disc just below the primary turn on/off valve. Looks like a chrome nut that protrudes out with a tiny hole drilled into it. If the pressure gets too great; then the very thin and fragile copper disc hidden inside will rupture and the contents of the tank will vent out the hole rather than explode the whole cylinder. So if your not around when the bottle blows the seal, the only way you'll know something has happened is when you pull up for a race and when you hit the button the car hesitates and bucks because your dumping raw fuel into you engine w/o any nitrous. If your in the car when it happens, you'll be a very happy camper with a horrible headache in a few minutes. Just remember to roll the windows dow so you don't pass out.
I saw the pictures of the exploded car and garage and found another thing interesting. The car and garage were burnt to a crisp. Now, nitrous is non-flamable. Yes, no BS'n here; It is "non flammable". It is "combustable" though. If you don't believe me , grab a buddies bottle and read the label. Big green diamond with black lettering "Non-Flammable". The difference is this - lets say we had a room full of nitrous, and nothing else - light a match and it will not blow up; merely your match will burn like flaming torch. Take the same room and fill it with a flammable gas like propane and a little air and light a match and you'll be putting on a hell of a 4th of July display. Nitrous is non flammable. A ruptured bottle would not "explode" in the sense of like a pipe bomb or exploding propane tank. It would pop like a baloon. But keeping in mind all the required safety standards on these bottles, I doubt seriously one would even blow up. But even under some freak of nature, it wouldn't provide the damage shown in the picture from a while back. That pic looked like a welding incident gone wrong; or a gas grill from hell impropperly stored in a garage.
Now the big Wet/Dry debate. Chris gave some excellent advice a few posts back. A single fogger wet system, if not installed correctly, will puddle fuel in the intake runners. Not the end of the world, but not safe either. Single inject nitrous wether wet OR dry, will be inhaled by your engine very unevely. So you will have radically uneven head pressure over all the the pistons. Some will burn lean, some will burn rich, and some will be just right! So now your cylinders are all unballanced as far as compression and mixture goes. Again not the best thing in the world, but not necessarily life threating to a motor at low doses. Remember you don't have an O2 sensor in every exhaust port, so your copmputer averages each side out and each cylinder gets the same amount of fuel reguardless of the amount of NOS in the intake charge.
The trick is to be very careful and precise with the installation. Nitrous leaves absoutly no room for error. And when installed correctly, it is a reliable and safe way to add hp to your car. Also, they do have dry direct port systems too. If you plan on keeping the shot around 50 hp, then a single dry setup will do fine, just make sure to buy a hi flow fuel pump. But in all honsety, is 50 hp worth the risk? The lower the hp shot, the harder it is to keep consistant. And also remember that a 50 hp shot isn't necessarily 50 horse power; its only 50 horsepower under ideal conditions. Factor in your drive line loss, low octanne street gas, high intake air temps, humidity, etc then putting all that money into a reliable 50 hose system to only get 15-20 at the wheels on a good day isn't worth it in my opinion. I would only install a 125-150 shot direct port progressive rate system into my SC. Safe, reliable, and with *** kicking numbers to back it up. Going progressive rate will save the transmission and the tires.
If you are going to do it, then do it right in my opinion.
Anyway, I'm rambling, so I'll shut up now. Hope this info helps somone. I never had any advice when I was first installing, and I messed up a few times- very costly, but I never popped a motor!
Keith
Legal and pubically sold Nitrous bottles all must have a blow off plate (valve). Its a copper disc just below the primary turn on/off valve. Looks like a chrome nut that protrudes out with a tiny hole drilled into it. If the pressure gets too great; then the very thin and fragile copper disc hidden inside will rupture and the contents of the tank will vent out the hole rather than explode the whole cylinder. So if your not around when the bottle blows the seal, the only way you'll know something has happened is when you pull up for a race and when you hit the button the car hesitates and bucks because your dumping raw fuel into you engine w/o any nitrous. If your in the car when it happens, you'll be a very happy camper with a horrible headache in a few minutes. Just remember to roll the windows dow so you don't pass out.
I saw the pictures of the exploded car and garage and found another thing interesting. The car and garage were burnt to a crisp. Now, nitrous is non-flamable. Yes, no BS'n here; It is "non flammable". It is "combustable" though. If you don't believe me , grab a buddies bottle and read the label. Big green diamond with black lettering "Non-Flammable". The difference is this - lets say we had a room full of nitrous, and nothing else - light a match and it will not blow up; merely your match will burn like flaming torch. Take the same room and fill it with a flammable gas like propane and a little air and light a match and you'll be putting on a hell of a 4th of July display. Nitrous is non flammable. A ruptured bottle would not "explode" in the sense of like a pipe bomb or exploding propane tank. It would pop like a baloon. But keeping in mind all the required safety standards on these bottles, I doubt seriously one would even blow up. But even under some freak of nature, it wouldn't provide the damage shown in the picture from a while back. That pic looked like a welding incident gone wrong; or a gas grill from hell impropperly stored in a garage.
Now the big Wet/Dry debate. Chris gave some excellent advice a few posts back. A single fogger wet system, if not installed correctly, will puddle fuel in the intake runners. Not the end of the world, but not safe either. Single inject nitrous wether wet OR dry, will be inhaled by your engine very unevely. So you will have radically uneven head pressure over all the the pistons. Some will burn lean, some will burn rich, and some will be just right! So now your cylinders are all unballanced as far as compression and mixture goes. Again not the best thing in the world, but not necessarily life threating to a motor at low doses. Remember you don't have an O2 sensor in every exhaust port, so your copmputer averages each side out and each cylinder gets the same amount of fuel reguardless of the amount of NOS in the intake charge.
The trick is to be very careful and precise with the installation. Nitrous leaves absoutly no room for error. And when installed correctly, it is a reliable and safe way to add hp to your car. Also, they do have dry direct port systems too. If you plan on keeping the shot around 50 hp, then a single dry setup will do fine, just make sure to buy a hi flow fuel pump. But in all honsety, is 50 hp worth the risk? The lower the hp shot, the harder it is to keep consistant. And also remember that a 50 hp shot isn't necessarily 50 horse power; its only 50 horsepower under ideal conditions. Factor in your drive line loss, low octanne street gas, high intake air temps, humidity, etc then putting all that money into a reliable 50 hose system to only get 15-20 at the wheels on a good day isn't worth it in my opinion. I would only install a 125-150 shot direct port progressive rate system into my SC. Safe, reliable, and with *** kicking numbers to back it up. Going progressive rate will save the transmission and the tires.
If you are going to do it, then do it right in my opinion.
Anyway, I'm rambling, so I'll shut up now. Hope this info helps somone. I never had any advice when I was first installing, and I messed up a few times- very costly, but I never popped a motor!
Keith
I just bought a 75 dry shot to install. As far as the research I have seen, a gs400 fuel pump will hold it, the motor will hold it, the tranny will hold it. It seems to be the ideal shot for a dry shot. Is there anything I am missing? I would hate to screw up my motor over something stupid.
Any help would be appreciated as I am going to install it this friday.
Any help would be appreciated as I am going to install it this friday.
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