I have a couple of EVs but just picked up a used 2017 RX450h for the long trips where using an EV is not ideal due to charging times. I am a car hobbyist and have done a few suspension changes over the years and I like to do things by the book. When I purchased the RX450h, the rear shocks and front struts seemed a bit soft (it's a 7 year old car). I recently replaced the rear shocks using a Youtube video from Victor G (has very solid instructions and includes torque settings)--took me an hour to put in new rear KYB shocks, which stiffened up the rear to my liking and go rid of the rear end Lexus float.

The front struts I'm looking to tackle soon with new KYB struts as the current Lexus struts feel too soft and I don't like the front end diving.

The job looks pretty straight forward but I have a few questions:

1. Anyone have the torque specs for all bolts associated with front struts? Strut tower bolts (3), top center strut nut, sway bar link bolt, lower strut to steering knuckle bolts (2)


2. Spring compression? Any tricks for those who have done this--the springs look like they have a smaller loop radius on top and a larger radius on the bottom. Can I use the 2 separate clamps ("widow maker") or should I use the style with 2 arms?

(2 clamps--something similar can be rented at the Autozone/OReillys)

3. Anyone have other tips to keep in mind (for those that have done the the front strut replacements)?a

For those interested, here's the video replacing the rear struts (torque specs in the video; about a 1.5 out of 5 difficulty):

 

I did both front and rear strut replacements in March using Bilstein B6 on my 2016 RX350. I really wanted to like the stiffer suspension but couldn't deal with the noises it brought along with it. Seemed like the creaks and thumps over bumps were amplified in the cabin. The front struts were 1.5 - 2 inches longer, and the rear Bilstein B6's were a tad shorter than OEM and bushings were smaller, could not get a good seat for the Bilstein rear and rattled over bumpy roads. Tighten again past torque specs and they still rattled. People in this forum didn't seem to have issues though: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...nt-struts.html

Hopefully this won't be the same experience for your KYB. I ended up getting OEM Lexus front and rear struts and changing them out last night. I used a Clamshell strut compressor on both installs (https://www.harborfreight.com/clamsh...sor-59467.html). With the Bilstein's since they were a tad bit longer, the strut compressor worked great with the spring and I was able to get enough threads past the strut mount to get the nut on. This was not the same with OEM Lexus struts, they're shorter. I had to buy another clamshell compressor to compress the spring coils even further in order to seat/perch them correctly and to get threads to poke through the strut mount to get the nut on. It took hours of trial and error to get compressor to be in the right location in order for me to thread the nut and loosen the 2nd compressor so it wasn't in the way of the bottom rubber perch location or top in order to remove it once it was uncompressed. Too frustrated to even take pictures. Complicated to convey. To do the front and rear with the OEM parts, it took me 8 hours due to fronts struts being a pain in the *** with running back and forth between parts stores and adjusting. After replacing everything with OEM, all the creaks, thumps, and rattles went away.



If the KYB's are the same length as OEM, you may run into issues the the clamshell.

BILITOOLS 2-Piece Coil Spring Compressor you have linked may work since the bolt is at the bottom, I tried something like this https://a.co/d/hOtPy4I and the bolt kept getting in the way, either hitting the strut mount or the bottom perch.

The torque specs I used:
3x top strut mount nuts (48603A) - 63ft lbs
1x strut mount nut (48680A) - 52ft lbs.
2x bottom bolts/nuts (43211K/43211L) - 214ft lbs
1x sway bar - 55ft lbs.


Notes of parts used:
OEM Lexus:
Front Struts
- Left (Drivers) - OEM Lexus 485208Z122 Strut Front left
- Right (Passenger) - OEM Lexus 485108Z262 Strut Front right
Rear Struts
- L/R - 485310E191 Rear Struts
Strut Mounts
- Front L/R - OEM PT: 48609-0E060 NA/48609-48080 Japan interchangable part numbers. Used Japan part due to shortage on NA.
Strut Boots, insulator, and bearing
- Front L/R - OEM PT: 48045-0E020

Bilstein B6's that were removed:
Front Strut Left (Drivers) - Bilstein B6 Part # 22-282873
Front Strut Right (Passenger) - Bilstein B6 Part # 22-282880
Rear Struts Left and Right side - Bilstein B6 Part # 24-282901

 

Thank you for this information. I need to reconsider about the Bilsteins now.

 

My tip to you is taking it to a shop once the struts are off the car is that is a viable option for you. Those springs are hard to get off with diy tools.

 

REPAIR UPDATE

I just got done with changing out the 2017 RX450h front struts (it uses the same components as the RX350, so long as it's not the F-Sport model (which uses the electronic shocks)). "itsokay"--thanks for the tips and front struts torque specs--they were invaluable. A few notes on the removal and replacement

SPECIAL TOOLS

Magnetic pen tool (to get loose nuts on the upper shock tower)--here's an example:

Die 12mm x 1.25 (to clean up the sway bar end bolt) [not required but it makes life way easier] ($4)


OTHER PARTS TO BUY

Buy 2 new lower top mount subassembly as this is a relatively cheap wear item. This includes the 3 following pieces: boot, the top spring insulator, and most importantly, the bearing assembly (allows for the strut to pivot). Same part number for the right and left side.

Toyota part number: 480450E020 ($45 retail; $33 online) [part 48045 and 48045A in the original pic]



48045 sub-assembly (has 3 parts to it)

I'm a big fan of Bell Lexus North Scottsdale for parts pricing (they sometimes have free shipping like I did)

https://parts.belllexusnorthscottsdale.com/

I reused the top strut mount (has 3 bolts) as it looked to be in good shape. It just separates from the above part.

REMOVAL NOTES

1. Spray some penetrating fluid on all bolts and nuts to get things loose.

2. Sway bar end link. Before starting, clean up the sway bar link bolt to the shock tower before taking it off. I used a die (12x1.25mm) to clean off the bolt threads--you have to get the die just right to get it started and dont' force it. It made the 17mm nut much easier to remove once I got it started. Folow the tips from Victor G's video (for a 3rd gen RX) on how to use the die and also how to remove the bolt with the allen key (make sure you clean the allen key hole really well and set it in there so you don't strip it once you work to take off the nut).

Die link ($4): Victor G video: (2:00-4:00; instead of his socket, I used a 17mm spanner afterwards to get the sway bar nut moving; watch the rest of the 3G RX video to get overall tips on the job as it's similar on the 4G RX; a good tip was using some straps to keep the spindle in place so the CV joint doesn't pop out once the strut assembly is out)

Tip: if you have 1 side jacked up (the side you are working on), it can give you some pressure to help hold the sway bar link in place so it doesn't spin. This only works for 1 side as once you get the bolt off, the other side will need to be jacked up (so the sway bar can move freely to allow the end link to align properly).

3. The lower strut tower nuts and bolts are 22mm. I used an electric impact wrench and the bolts came off pretty easily.

4. Top strut mount nuts (3). To get access to these, on the windshield cowl, on each side, remove the 3 circular caps with a flat head screwdriver (put the screwdriver under the notched flat edge of the caps (the flat notches are facing outboard) and lift). For the driver's side, to remove the topmost circular caps, you'll need to remove the driver's wiper arm (pop off the plastic windshield nut cover and then take off the 14mm nut).







For a quick tip on getting the wiper arm off, check out this video:
You only need to remove the driver's side wiper arm. Start at: 1:10 in the video.

Note: when you loosen and remove the top strut nuts off the bolts, they will come loose and you'll need to use a magnetic pen tool to grab them via the port holes.

SPRING COMPRESSION

For spring compression, I ended up using a local private shop to do this part as the Lexus spring coils are asymmetrical in diameter from top to bottom. Using rented hand tools would have caused the spring to bend to one side the spring may not seat properly. The shop only charged me 1/2 hr labor ($75) and that was a no brainer for me to choose that option. Can you do it yourself? Possibly with the right stand style spring compressor or with a couple different compressors so the spring seats properly. However for the price, it was not worth the hassle for me to mess with the asymmetric springs and doing it myself.



Asymmetric spring diameter. I ended up having a private shop do the spring compression work for me with their stand style spring compressor.


INSTALLATION NOTES

Due to limited port holes access, by far the hardest part of the reinstallation was getting the top strut mount nuts onto the bolts the assembled strut assembly. While I did it myself, it would be easier to have 1 person hold the strut assembly up in place while you put the top strut nuts on. Use a flashlight to shine from the windshield cowl meshing to show where the 3 bolts are so you can place the bolts in place. I ended using some tape on the nuts on my 14mm deep socket to hold it in place to get on the bolts (see pic below). Once on the bolt and semi-tight, I twisted it so the tape comes off. Have the magnetic pen handy as your nut may drop out of the setup. Alternatively, you may also be able to use the magnetic pen to hold the nuts to get them aligned and placed. Others may have better tips but that is what worked for me. Out of the 3 top nuts, the taller, darker colored one goes outboard.


Top strut mount nut jury-rig to hold nut in place

The rest of the reassembly was pretty straight forward—just make sure both front wheels are off the ground to easily move the sway end links to put them on the new struts. Use a quality torque wrench to torque the bolts to spec. I had to get a larger 1/2" torque wrench to get the lower strut bolts tightened to spec (as my original one only went to 150 ft-lbs). Torque specs (provided by "itsokay"):

3x top strut mount nuts (48603A): 63ft-lbs
1x strut mount nut (48680A): 52ft-lbs
2x bottom bolts/nuts (43211K/43211L): 214ft-lbs
1x sway bar: 55ft-lbs
wheel lug nuts: 76 ft-lbs

You will want to take the car in for an alignment afterwards.

 

4. Top strut mount nuts (3). To get access to these, on the windshield cowl, on each side, remove the 3 circular caps with a flat head screwdriver (put the screwdriver under the notched flat edge of the caps (the flat notches are facing outboard) and lift). For the driver's side, to remove the topmost circular caps, you'll need to remove the driver's wiper arm (pop off the plastic windshield nut cover and then take off the 14mm nut).




You only need to remove the driver's side wiper arm. Start at: 1:10 in the video.



***************************************
* NOTE TO FUTURE READERS *
***************************************
There is no need to remove the Driver Side Wiper Arm to access the third bolt. You can put your wipers in Service Mode (Immediately after turning the ignition off, push the wiper stalk upwards for a few seconds until the wipers move to the service position.) and the arm will move out of the way of the third access hole.

 

for the people with f sport whats extra step we gotta do? if we change them out?

 

The only difference is an electronic connector that connects directly to the Strut.
Everything else is the same.

Of course, this electronic connection adds significant cost to the strut itself and will likely require you to use the OEM replacement.

I am attaching photos below of the connector and the tab required to release it. I used a small pick, but a small screwdriver would also work. I included a picture below where I have my pick pointing to the connector release and another one where the connector is partly removed so you can see the notch holding the connector on.

 

do you happen to see any part numbers on there (non-OE)?
I believe they are KYB's so maybe they have the manufacture PN on there.

 

______________________________________________________________
Below are pictures of all the numbers I could find on the part itself and the shipping box.
I had originally suspected that they were KYB's as well, but when I went to KYB, they did not have them for the F Sport version - not out of stock, but just did not offer them.

If you do happen to find them from the original manufacturer, please let us know.

 

The only manufacturer name I could really make out is "TOKICO" and they do make shocks and struts.
I did try to look up the company, but their website does not list parts for Lexus Models, just Toyota.

 

I forgot Tokico also makes shocks for toyota and used to do the adjustable ones for older supras. i'll look into it and report back if i find anything.

 

I am planning on doing this replacement today, however went i went to access the strut mount bolts, I found that the access to the one under the driver side windshield wiper is obstructed by a metal bar.



I haven't seen this mentioned in other threads before, so figured I'd ask here.

Is there a way around this other than removing the entire cowl?
I have tried getting a socket in under the cowl, but cannot get to the nut due to the metal piece.

 

RE: Spring compression at the shop...

$75 for spring removal and install? Even if that is for just removal, then another $75 to install, it is worth it compared to an ER trip. NO BRAINER at 3x the price.

 

Indeed, the one nut on the driver's side is OBSTRUCTED!


I just removed the two plastic push pin fasteners in the area (driver's side), and separated the cowl a bit, so that I could get a boxed end, flex head, ratcheting wrench on the obstructed nut.