Alignment required after front wheel bearing change?
A local shop I know is insisting that an alignment is highlyl recommended after a wheel bearing change since the wheel hub has to come off.
AFAIK, the RX350/450h strut bolts do not have adjustable camber so why would an alignment be necessary?
Has anyone here done a front wheel bearing change without alignment?
Thanks in advance!
AFAIK, the RX350/450h strut bolts do not have adjustable camber so why would an alignment be necessary?
Has anyone here done a front wheel bearing change without alignment?
Thanks in advance!
Holes for bolts to pass through have diameter larger than the actual bolt. So when any suspension part is disassembled the alignment can go off.
You can take the risk and see if your tires start wearing out un-evenly or put the vehicle on the rack. Some shops offer free alignment check up, where you only pay if adjustment is needed. Generally they do find a reason to adjust.
Salim
You can take the risk and see if your tires start wearing out un-evenly or put the vehicle on the rack. Some shops offer free alignment check up, where you only pay if adjustment is needed. Generally they do find a reason to adjust.
Salim
Sort of. ^^^^^^^^ (with respects, Salim)
Toyota chose to not provide any camber adjustability for the front struts (all 4 on Highlander) SUVs. Neither has Camry. Who knows, cheaper to make or something.
Original strut to hub connection bolts do wear out though over time. So do the holes in strut bracket. I had struts replaced several times on Camry and Highlander and every time I witnessed groves in them bolts. I had to put camber bolts, as the result, on Camry, at around 80 000 miles, they were so out of camber.
I'd say this. Check alignment. If it's out of camber - your vehicle will start wearing tires ahead of normal plus, camber is significantly influencing steering. Significantly. If alignment is ok - amen. If it's off - well, it depends how much and your level of tolerance to rotating tires much more often then. Easier is to install camber bolts and forget about this.
Toyota chose to not provide any camber adjustability for the front struts (all 4 on Highlander) SUVs. Neither has Camry. Who knows, cheaper to make or something.
Original strut to hub connection bolts do wear out though over time. So do the holes in strut bracket. I had struts replaced several times on Camry and Highlander and every time I witnessed groves in them bolts. I had to put camber bolts, as the result, on Camry, at around 80 000 miles, they were so out of camber.
I'd say this. Check alignment. If it's out of camber - your vehicle will start wearing tires ahead of normal plus, camber is significantly influencing steering. Significantly. If alignment is ok - amen. If it's off - well, it depends how much and your level of tolerance to rotating tires much more often then. Easier is to install camber bolts and forget about this.
Wait a second, you have to disassemble a part of the suspension to change a wheel bearing? Don't they just slide on and off the spindle? If so, why would that change anything?
Or perhaps you are changing a bearing because it was so sloppy, which meant the alignment varied over a considerable range.
In any event my local Les Schwab dealer will put the car on the rack for free and give me the printout. In range, no charge.
Or perhaps you are changing a bearing because it was so sloppy, which meant the alignment varied over a considerable range.
In any event my local Les Schwab dealer will put the car on the rack for free and give me the printout. In range, no charge.
The hub is held by suspension and the drive shaft passes through the bearing. The hub has to be pulled out and swung out of the way to get the shaft out. Most likely the whole hub was removed to press out the old bearing. Lower and upper ball joint have to be separated. The suspension may end up at the right spot, but once you touch it, wheel alignment is suggested.
Salim
Salim
Front end does not have upper ball joint, it's McPherson strut. Ball joint is 3 bolt bolted to control arm, which is actually VERY convenient, takes heartbeat to replace it.
Two strut knuckle bolts are removed, outer tie rod end is disconnected, ball joint popped and disconnected, center drive axle nut undone, ABS sensor disconnected/removed - hub slides off and out. Hubs are so cheap, I'd rather replace entire hub and have new warranty, than mess with bearing pressed out and new pressed in.
Two strut knuckle bolts are removed, outer tie rod end is disconnected, ball joint popped and disconnected, center drive axle nut undone, ABS sensor disconnected/removed - hub slides off and out. Hubs are so cheap, I'd rather replace entire hub and have new warranty, than mess with bearing pressed out and new pressed in.
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