So I guess the question would be should you stick with the same brand after each oil change, or does it matter?

HH

 

A few years ago I started changing my own oil instead of having it done at the dealership (whom I presume was using conventional oil). When I switched to full synthetic Mobil 1, right away the engine burned about 1 quart of oil and triggered the CEL & VSC light

After 20k miles and 2-3 oil change cycle with the same brand of Mobil 1 synthetic oil, the oil burning issue went away and the CEL light and VSC light no longer comes on. So yes, I would definitely recommend sticking with the same brand or at least if you are using conventional (dino) oil to stay with conventional oil and if you are using synthetic to stay with synthetic oil.

 

Different brands use different chemistries when formulating their oils, and the above post shows how changing a brand can produce some unpleasant engine responses. The differences can be minor or significant, depending on brands being compared. The chemistries which can differ are the anti-foaming agents, friction modifiers, viscosity modifiers, detergents, use (or not) of an exotic friction modifier like moly, and even the TYPE of modifier -- particulate versus dissolved, etc.

The rule of thumb, again as indicated by ToledoRX, is to run your "new" oil brand for at least 3 complete change intervals before finalizing your decision as to whether or not to stick with it. It takes that many changes to completely purge the engine of the old oil and the volume which becomes transition oil (partially old and new).

 

Changed my wife's oil in her 2010 RX350 earlier this year. I used Valvoline 0w-20 SynPower (Full Synthetic). Ordered from Amazon and it was $32 just for the oil (5qts). Also bought a Wix Filter kit for the RX350 and oil filter wrench for $19.

I say that I made out fairly well. Made a little mess but only took me 30mins on a week night to get it done. Very satisfying doing something like this on your own.

 

Congrats!!!

The Mobile One Synthetic at Walmart for 5 quarts is cheaper.

 

 

My local Wal-Mart has K&N oil filters for about $5.69 each. Model PS7020. Synthetic media and they are built like the OEM filters, no hard plastic cap on top & bottom like some other brands (Purolator etc). I think having the pleat ends more open may allow greater oil flow. I bought 3 at that price to stock up. They cost a lot more online or at other auto parts stores locally.

 

I don't know about Canada, but in the state of the Republic of California, the price of the Mobil 1 0W-20 synthetic for 5 quarts is in the mid $20's depending on which formulation you pick . I stick with the "EP", Extended Performance.

Oil filter made by KN which is very good is under $5. Most other brands are $10 or less.

Auto parts stores WILL USUALLY cost you a lot more for the same thing.

If you have ramps or jacks set up along with jack stands, the oil change should not take but half an hour. On the RX, I don't even need to use ramps or jacks bc the RX is high enough as is. But helps to use ramps/jacks with jack stands to give me a little bit more room. Also I take the used old oil to any auto parts store (quicker even yhthoui did not buy the new oil from them or Walmart) for disposal in old oil containers sealed and then put in double garbage bags. No leaks and no mess.

I do my own oil changes bc (not bc I can not afford to have someone else do it. If you like it done at your TOYOTA or whichever dealership, then that's all good. But up in Canada during cold weather trying to do an oil change in freezing temperatures, it will be difficult.):

1. Takes me less time to do it in my garage. Way more time and hasseh to go to the dealership, pick up a loaner, then return back. Or even just hang around waiting either at and Indy or dealer. So you say how about one of those quik lube places. All I can say is: "I'll be praying for your car." LOL

2. I KNOW I DID IT CORRECTLY. There were way too many incidents of OVERFILL personally happened to me at dealership and done of the Indy places.

Please see attached:

 

Exactly what Lexusrus said! I wait for the sale at Canadian Tire to get the Mobil 1 Advanced fuel economy for $25 CAD or $29 CAD. It happens a bout 4-5 times a year, just look for it.

 

Trying to decide between the 0W-20 Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W-20 Full Synthetic vs the Mobil 1 0W-20 Advanced Fuel Economy Full Synthetic.

 

You'd probably never know the difference once you've run them.

 

One difference is the price spread between the two formulas. I'm sure there MIGHT be more antiwear additives in the "EP" formula. So in EXTREME conditions this will protect better as in longer oil change intervals, extreme heat/cold, stop and go, heavy load/towing, short trips, and etc.

For a little bit more, I just get the "EP". That's just me. Probably can get by with just the cheaper formula. But to me the few bucks more over the lifetime of the car is a negligible incremental cost. It's not like I have a fleet of thousands of taxicabs to pay for oil changes......

 

If I had the choice between the two types of Mobil 1 synthetic oil, I'd go with the cheaper one.

Whatever additives or formulations the EP one has probably won't make a difference if you are keeping up with regular oil changes.

This is my personal preference, but I don't think additives or whatnot are worth it you are keeping up with maintenance in general.

 

The difference is around 3 bucks for the 5 quarts bottle at Walmart.

For a little bit more, I just get the "EP". That's just me. Probably can get by with just the cheaper formula. But to me the few bucks more over the lifetime of the car is a negligible incremental cost. It's not like I have a fleet of thousands of taxicabs to pay for oil changes......

 

For me, if I can find mineral oil, I would use that instead of fully synthetic. Mainly to avoid oil leaks from developing. I am aware of the inherent issue with timing chain cover oil leaks.
Refer: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...over-leak.html