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No. I have run AGM Optima Redtops in many of my Toyotas over the years without issue.
The Float voltage and charging rates for AGM vs VRLA (Standard lead acid battery) batteries is very similar.
I maintain Large facility UPS/PCS systems with 30-40 batteries in them for many years. These systems service Air Traffic Control towers and facilities.
I have found in the past 10-15 years that the Optimas were not lasting any longer than a Everstart MAXX from Walmart, or a whatever is the best battery sold from the discount club, (Sam's, Costco, BJ's) of your choice, for much cheaper than the Optima. Yes I know there are a number of better brand AGM manufactures out there, Odyssey ect... Not willing to spend that cash for a battery that might last a year longer in typical use.
3-5 years max life for me in multiple cars in coastal SC heat. No crazy stereo or light systems ect. Just normal everyday use.
Only battery I have had last longer than 5 years was a Panasonic battery in my 04 4Runner that was from Japan. Some folks on the T4R forum were getting up to 8 years out of them. If I recall it was a 27F.
Many branded batteries are manufactured by Johnson Controls. Just a quick blurb from the interwebs: Johnson Controls primarily manufactures lead-acid automotive batteries and has a wide range of brands, including VARTA, LTH, Delkor, and OPTIMA. They also produce batteries for major retailers like Walmart, Sears, Toyota, and BMW, as well as for brands like Duralast, DieHard, Kirkland, Motorcraft, and Interstate. Many of these batteries are manufactured in the US, with some exceptions for specific types like certain power sport batteries.
Johnson Controls was a respected battery manufacturer back in the day. Their quality and longevity seems to have slipped somewhat. My experience the last few years is that East Penn is currently building the best bang-for-the-buck batteries.
BMW definitely makes a distinction. There is a battery monitor built into the charging system and its electronics need to be aware of if it is AGM or standard lead cell. if you replace a battery, you code the car to let it know its been replaced. if you change from AGM to SLC, you code the car to let it know. How do Lexus electronics work, no idea, never seen documentation, nor do there seem to be any Lexus master mechanics hanging out over here or maybe they are not allowed, afraid of losing their jobs!
In any regard, why bother, SLC is less expensive and last just as long. Plus, I think AGM is more susceptible to engine heat. BMW keeps their AGMs in the trunk.
Last edited by SunglassesGuy; Aug 14, 2025 at 10:52 AM.
The only time you should absolutely run an AGM battery is when it is mounted inside the cabin of your vehicle. This presents the possibility that battery acid could get splash on the occupants if you were in a bad accident. Otherwise you can decide whether it’s worth the extra expense for their advantage. Like if you run a powerful stereo or something like that. AGM batteries have some advantages, but they cost a lot more, so you should consider whether you can benefit from their advantages or if a regular would be fine for your situation which it is in most cases. If you happen to have a high amperage draw for some reason then you might want to get a bigger battery or bigger alternator and you will get more benefit than from an AGM. An AGM doesn’t have liquid acid in it, so it can be mounted in unusual ways etc, but otherwise most people would see no advantage from an AGM
Yes and no The battery is steaming and over time everything oxidizes and rusts. especially in winter I already wrote sometimes people wash the compartment with soda and water. here is an example of mine and as a result the rotted plus to starter rusty .minus terminals and clamps of the cooling tubes on the ATF radiator. Battery was 7 years under cover plastic. if u in salty regions check under plastic base for battery. spray some lubricant. TODAY
So glad I do not live in the rust belt anymore!!! Worse possibility for rust here if you have a boat and back the trailer too far in the water on the regular and don’t power wash under your vehicle each time then you can rust out the whole back end of a vehicle here in the Charleston, South Carolina area.
As far as protecting battery terminals. I use this on my boat and on all my vehicles and I never develop any kind of corrosion if you re-spray it every oil change. CRC makes pretty good products and it doesn’t matter whether it’s the marine type or the regular battery terminal protector, they both work well.
Battery terminal spray is one of the dumbest products ever if you have a leaky battery causing corrosion then replace it not mask the problem. Note: I'm talking automotive not marine that's a different scenario.
Battery terminal spray is one of the dumbest products ever if you have a leaky battery causing corrosion then replace it not mask the problem. Note: I'm talking automotive not marine that's a different scenario.
You have no clue. We protect the battery terminals on brand new batteries in large facility battery systems, UPS/PCS, at Air Traffic Control facilities across the country. All batteries off gas while charging. Doesn’t matter if it is the alternator in a vehicle or a float charger for a stationary battery system. The gas contains small amounts of acid. It does not mean your battery is “leaking”. Most car batteries are Valve Regulated Lead Acid VLRA Batteries and the “Valve” is designed to let the excess pressure out rather than damage the battery.
“Battery terminal corrosion is primarily caused by a chemical reaction between battery acid and the metal terminals, exacerbated by factors like moisture, age, and temperature. Specifically, the sulfuric acid in the battery releases hydrogen gas, which then reacts with oxygen and moisture in the air to form corrosive substances like sulfuric acid crystals. This corrosion can manifest as a white or bluish powdery substance on the terminals.”
Above speaks to my point. Please educate yourself.
None of my cars (7) have battery terminal and post corrosion I don't put anything on them. BTW your link says to use a wire brush to clean battery terminals very bad advice. Use a Scotch-Brite pad combined with chemicals if necessary far more effective and doesn't remove a large amount of material like these stupid things do.
None of my cars (7) have battery terminal and post corrosion I don't put anything on them. BTW your link says to use a wire brush to clean battery terminals very bad advice. Use a Scotch-Brite pad combined with chemicals if necessary far more effective and doesn't remove a large amount of material like these stupid things do.
None of my current 6 vehicles or past vehicles have or had battery corrosion. Sorry I don’t have 7. Well I do have 7 if you include the 3 batteries in my boat.. 2 house and 1 start all VLRA.
Agree to disagree on the the wire brush vs scotch pad. A scotch pad can remove plenty of material if used vigorously. But if you need to find a fault in my point.. fine. To each their own. I am 100% not “masking” a problem by using battery terminal protectant. Which was your original point. Chemicals?? What chemicals??
AGM battery use
