Yes you are correct, everything will wake up and more current usage will be seen.
Also, if you have doors open, add more ma's for all the lights.

Body Ecu never fully "goes to sleep" because it's always running the security system and "listening" for keyfob's and door open conditions, etc in what I call a "keep alive and wake up on these events".
It's just that it seems to go into a lower power usage mode as seen on the multimeter when everything is off- you will know it when you see it watching the meter for a few mins.

How I do it is:
1) close all doors so interior lights don't exceed the wattage of the milliamp setting on the meter and pop the fuse.
2) hook up negative terminal to battery.
3) in milli-amp mode hook meter black to positive battery cable and meter red to battery positive terminal.
4) I can't remember 100% if there is a "hoood switch" I will need to confirm but if there is(or to play it safe) jumper wires will be needed for the meter leads so you can monitor the meter and still close the hood. Recommend taping any bare leads and play it safe- don't need an electrical fire when hood is closed.
5) watch the meter and see what it does, may take several minutes but not too long. I have no definitive answer cuz I don;t remember exactly how long but you will see it and know it.

*Note- I had my keys in my pocket for this test I do remember that so I don't know on our cars if it matters much.
*Note- locking doors is optional but I recommend not locking them for this test. They may lock automatically anyway, I know mine do.
*Warning- don't close hood ALL THE WAY for this test- if you loose connection on the battery at the meter and the doors lock automatically you are screwed and will not be able to unlock the car to pop the hood except with key in driver door- warning only applies if you don't know 100% you can unlock the driver door with the key and have tested it first!

 

Just got a few things to add as well:

Those cars do have a Hood Switch, which is located inside the lock mechanism, so instead of closing the whole hood, it may be easier to simply close the latch itself with the screwdriver, like OP did the first time.

Yes, yes they do.

No, it is important to let the car sit with the multimeter already attached, instead of doing so right before the test.

As you connect the Multimeter to the car, you basically disconnect the battery, and then connect it back through a Multimeter, causing all the ECUs to wake up again, which is why it doesn't really matter how long the battery was connected before the test, you need to let it sit with the multimeter connected.

As for 30 minutes, it is just an arbitrary number to play it safe, there isn't any magic time for the ECUs to go asleep, though you will see it in the readings when that happens. With that, if nothing changes in 30 or more minutes, then you know there is a problem to be fixed.

That's actually very important to understand, and it is also a reason why there is no definitive time on how long will it take to go asleep.

Locking the doors is not necessary, but it does help facilitate the process, as the car knows that there is no one nearby and it won't be started any time soon, so the process of it going into a sleep may be faster that way. But again, it shouldn't affect the result too much.

So long as the car doesn't have a Start/Stop Button instead of a Key, like most modern cars do, the key in the pocket shouldn't have any effect on the car. With that, I would still keep it somewhere far from the car in case if it decides to lock on you with keys still inside the car, it is very easy to forget the keys in the car while in a moment, I've had that happen, and it is anything but fun to deal with afterwards.

That fuse powers more than just one ECU, newer cars have separate ECUs for most of the major systems, like Engine ECU, Body ECU, Climate Control ECU, etc. If there is indeed a problem, you will have to find a Flow Diagram for that fuse, and trace all the systems it connects to.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

 

^^ Ok, wondering about the hood switch was bothering me so I just confirmed but Arseni beat me too it. lol

Just got done checking and can confirm 100% THERE IS a hood switch and the schematics showing it connected directly to the Body Ecu so it definately knows if hood is popped.
PS- just for reference it is part if the security system in the schematics.

Add- change what I said above- hood should be fully closed for this test best I can understand. Not sure if the hood switch will be ok with it not closed all the way(don't think so) but I like Arseni's idea of tripping the hood lock mechanism to trick it- much easier.

 

yeah I already did that yesterday. My cable is broken so I’ve been leaving the hood ajar to make things easier. Good news though I found why the cable isn’t working the plastic ferrule that holds the cable to the latch broke. Toyota should have used a metal ferrule.

 

Found out today that the alternator was not connected properly.
had a hard time figuring it out the battery light was on and the engine wasn’t turning over but I plugged the obd in and the engine magically turned over then when I unplugged the scan tool the engine died.
Tested the alternator and it said it wasn’t charging at which point I checked the connections and realized I hadn’t tightened the ten mill nut enough.

now there is a slight whirring noise at medium to high speeds but I think it’s my front wheel hub bearings I moved the wheel around when it was lifted and there is play. Idk how but it seems that the hubs went to **** while sitting on neck stands for so long? Idk how that makes sense

Also the horn and power door/ back hatch are still not working but the sunroof is functional.

 

Did you happen to move the car at any point with the axles removed? This instantly ruins wheel bearings.

 

no I didn’t start the vehicle till I put the axels back in. We pushed the car into the parking space we worked from then jacked it up and put it on stands than began doing work on it the vehicle didn’t move from those stands till it was ready to fire up.

how would the car even move with the CV’s taken out of the transaxle/ t case?

 

Did you push the car with the axle removed? Wheel bearings are two pieces that rely on the axle to compress them and essentially create the pre-load. No pre-load=destroyed bearing.

Doesn't matter if the engine is in the car or not you can ruin the bearings by simply pushing the car around. I found this out the hard way.

 

the car was on jack stands the entire time if I pushed the car it would have fallen and been catastrophic.
I think I turned the rotors while the cv axels were out but that’s it.

I have to jack it up and try checking the hub for play again now that I’ve torqued the axel nut to 217 lbs/ft maybe that tightened things up and the noise is coming from somewhere else.

 

So the airplane noise I’ve been hearing is the beginning stages of bearing failure. Now I need to spend $120 on a slide hammer kit and bearing press remover to press out the old bearing and replace it. Other then that she runs nicely. I was afraid about a short in the harness but that was just some unneeded over paranoia on my end.
finaly put helicoils in the transmission pan after letting a couple quarts drain out over the last two months. A waste of perfect atf. But I didn’t even need to remove the transmission pan it was simple except for the fact it was freezing outside when I did it.

I think my OBD is messed up because it was telling me the battery wasn’t fully charging and I took it to advance auto parts to have them check it and it is charging to 14.3v with no issues in the battery system. But my obd is saying it’s not charging to 13.6 and keeps dropping to 13.3 saying it’s abnormal. It’s a $50 obd made by craftsman that offers some decent features. But other then that my coolant temp is perfect and idling just under 700 rpm

there is a slight lifter tick but I’m planning on putting 20% marvel mystery oil in my next oil change and cross my fingers for the best. I probably should have done the head gasket just for good measure and put the cylinder heads from my bad engine on the salvaged one.
I also replaced the gasket on the driver side thermostat housing and no more coolant drip.
just need to do the front bearings, the hood latch release cable and get the horn working. The relay clicks so it must be something with the wiring up to the horns. And I also need to re install the driver side back seat I’ve just been lazy. And having no seat makes a good place to put tools lol. Then I need a full detail and carpet cleaning. This Rx 330 never came with carpet mats or an owner manual but undid get it for 6k with a limited warranty it just sucks the engine knock happened a couple weeks and a few thousand miles after the warranty ended

so far I would say she’s back to about 90% of what she was when I bought her. Just need those bearings and rear struts. As well as the minor things I mentioned above to get her to 100%