If you're talking about the CV axle on the passenger side it can be an SOB to get out, at least it was on mine since it was seized in the carrier bearing good.
I pulled the screw and rubber piece out of the carrier bearing and squirted some PB Blaster every few hours all day long and the next day I beat it out.

I posted pics how I did it since another member was struggling with this too and the auto part stores don't rent a slide hammer that fits and the vice grip attachment for the slide hammer just slips off.

I used a long flat straight chisel coming in from the back side of the round body of the cv joint.
A few good hits with a small sledge hammer got it moving and slowly impacted it out.

A regular hammer won't work, need the weight of a sledge and it acts like an impact wrench effect.
Back in the day we used air chisels to drive them out.

PS- anyone following along, plz be careful with the sledge hammer and take several controled practice swings because it woud be really easy to break a wrist, smash fingers, or hit and break something with a slip as you are working in a contorted position at a wierd angle.

 

Removing the ceevees from the tranny was actually pretty easy I had a hard time with the passenger side since there was an exhaust pipe in the way I borrowed a pry bar and small sledge but it was too long for the passenger side. I ended up using a jack lever and put it against one of the lips on the black knuckle of the cv touching the transmission and a few strikes and one rotation to another lip a few more strikes and it was out after my fiancé and I wasted 15 minutes struggling with the 30” pry bar.

what I’m struggling with now is taking the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. I removed the u joint punch bolt but now I’m wondering do I use a pry bar to get the shaft out of the gear housing? That’s the only thing that seems possible.

I drained the transfer case and that oil was so foul I almost puked. Drained the transmission and took the 8 bolts out of the drive shaft connections and the loosened the 4 bolts on the 2 bearing strap holders that hold the drive shaft in place. Got a lot done today but wanted to get more done my arms are just jello after impacting the drive shaft bolts off. The clearance was super tight and I had to twist my arms in some ungoldly positions the last bolt was the worst. The wobble adapter I was using wasn’t getting me anywhere and after 10 minutes I figured a long extension would be the best way to go and it was.

so what do I do about the intermediate shaft and steering gear? Also there is no physical shift cable unless it’s hidden on the passenger side of the vehicle? But I don’t think so. Shifting must be a part of the ecu system

thanks for responding none the less. Your input has been invaluable.

I did make another post about an hour ago with a couple pictures highlighting the current predicament I’ve explained above. A slide hammer and cv puller likely would have been easier but I didn’t want to spend $70 for the hammer and $20 for the cv adapter when it could be done for free.

 

So today I got to it early and that was a good call because it seems progress is slower to move the more progress I make.

I finally figured out I don’t have to remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear since I am hoisting the engine out. But now I’m struggling with the exhaust manifold. Specifically cat bank 1 on the back of the engine. The exhaust y pipe fastening flanges and particularly the bolts and nuts holding them are rusted to a flakey iron oxide color that is just indicative of née England wether.

so today I was able to remove cat bank 2 from the front of the engine. I took out the radiator fan to get enough room to do this. Wanted to remove the radiator but it’s stuck somewhere and I really don’t think it’s necessary.

I pulled out the driveshaft before all this marking the direct position it was in when removed and in relation to where it inserts into the tanager case. I removed the valley from the middle top of the engine and got the 2 electrical connections in there.removed the back fuel injector and coil pack connections. Undid the clips holding the wire harness to the timing cover. Undid some other various hoses. Also took off the torque converter access plate and the torque converter bolt but I’m not sure if I had to do this since I’m most likely taking the engine and the transmission out in one piece since I think that it will be easier to attach them properly outside the engine.

if anyone has any tips to save me frustration on the back exhaust manifold/ cat bank I would appreciate it. Looks like I’m going to need to get a heavy duty blade for my multi tool to cut the old nuts and bolts off. New pipe would be optimal but my budget is low and I feel some high heat oil paint and some wire brushing to salvage these components will be the cheapest way to go. Damn you New England weather!

 

Separated the transmission today. Probably would have come off much easier if I realized the transfer case to engine bracket was still attached. But I finally got to it and then one pry and it was off. I had started to separate them and had worked about 7mm of space in the front and top seams. Then As soon as I took the bolts off the bracket she just needed one pry.
I was still struggling to pull the engine out the top with the back header still attached so I’ve decided to remove the front bumper fascia and bumper reinforcement bar which I did as well today. Just need to make a evacuation canister with on old propane canister and then tap some threads to fit in a 1/4” / 1:4” npt to flare fitting to evacuate the Freon and remove the condenser compressor and radiator. The radiator is already disconnected I just left it in because it seems to be attached to the condenser with 2 small brackets on the bottom.

but once I’ve cleared the path I am going to slide the sucker out and then be ready to get the replacment and do the seals gaskets and timing belt before sliding her in.

 

OOPS! lol
In your defense, it was probably hard to see what was holing up the job without a lift to see all around everything.

PS- enjoying watching your progress.


Back in the day things were much simpler.
I did many AC services for shops I worked at and all we did was hook up our gauges to the low side port and slightly crack the low side valve and let it gass out the middle hose, easy peesy.
Gosh I miss the old days. lol

 

that does seem easier but drilling and tapping an empty Coleman 1# propane canister is pretty simple and really Freon isn’t good for all the cute bunnies that roam our neighborhood / the environment in general.

the progress is slower than I would like but I’m trying not to overwhelm myself. Once I get the engine to put in I am probably gong to be putting in 10-12 hour days and working past sunset. First step, cam and crank seals timing belt water pump and as many other engine gaskets as I can get to. Might just buckle and do the head gaskets too but Idk yet. Would be a shame if they fail and I could have done them when the engine was out.

 

You may want to replace the brushes on the starter motor while its out, about $20 on ebay, after 100K, they are usually pretty worn...

 

well the starter is easy enough to get to. Wonder if anyone has ever taken one apart and swapped a brushless motor from a power tool into a starter.

 

It makes as much difference as a fart in the wind. haha
Sometimes I think it's all about the patents after taking 2 semesters of Chem and another 2 semesters of Organic Chem but "those were the days". lol

Used starters are dirt cheap on fleaebay. I bought a nice clean unit under $100 and keep it on the shelf for a spare.

 

i tried to find a male npt to male flare fitting that fit my one hose with dial gauge so I could evacuate it properly but nothing for the threads. It’s either an off size or they are stripped. They did look flat and not sharp.

but I got a nice husky 100 tooth locking flex head half inch ratchet to add to my box. Didn’t need it but I wanted it. Not like the ****ty beeere crapsman rstchets they had at Lowe’s a while back. This is full metal construction. The detent release button on the top the directional selected and the pawl lock for the positioning ratchet on the flex head hinge itself. Pretty nice for under $50 shouldn’t have gotten it but I couldn’t help myself
acter this I’ll probably write up a diy for anyone crazy enough to take this on themselves with a list of necessary tools and step by step instructions. Can’t wait to get the 3mz fe out and I think I’ll have it out by today or tomorrow morning at the latest. I only got out a few hours of sleep last night so I need to take a nap and cuddle my pet bunnies.

that’s my new ratchet and Felix aka Fifi. He’s a good boy technically he’s intersex / transgender either way excuse the bunny poops they can be messy but bunpanionship is well worth it.

 

Finally got the engine out. Need a new engine mount though I had to cut the threaded rods out to get it out easily wasn’t going to let a part I can get for 25 bucks at a salvage yard hood up progress

then I was trying to remove the ac lines from the condenser and the bolts sheared at the head. Had to drill one out and the mounting bracket broke so I have to find a way to fix that. Oh well most of the hard work is done. Now to get the new one do some work to it and fit it in. After I scrub the inside of the engine bay with some oven cleaner and brake clean

 

Nice, congrats!

 

Nice job!
I was hoping for your success.

If you had to do it again wold you do it this way or jack the front way up and drop the cradle?
Also, just wondering if it will be harder going back in or you think pulling it was the hardest part?
Cheers!

 

pulling it was A *****. But I don’t think the worst is over. I still have to do the TB and gaskets/ seals on the new engine.

that being said I bought this one for 6k with 183k miles on it back in may. I talked them down about 1500 because there was no history of a tb service ever done.
the belt was very flimsy like a big rubber band and there were small micro fissures on the smooth service when I flexed the rubber tightly. But the water pump looked new and the cam seals were very hard and an orange color. Usually a bad cam seal will just deteriorate with pressure. That being said there was a lot of oil residue on the back timing cover on the back cam seal location mostly and a little on the front. So I really can’t say if the tb has never been done for sure but I’m leaning towards it. Maybe the cam seals are just held up and the water pump too. The belt was a genuine Toyota belt. It’s hard to say I’ll take pics later

I also saw the sad state of the crank sprocket. It was angled out about 3-6° so the crank is shot and that’s why it wouldn’t turn over by hand. Probably turned it over the last time when I turned the key to have a mechanic friend listen to it. Going to take as much off this engine as I can and bring the junk yard as little as possible if I do have to pay a core charge.

Now I’m going to have to get the transmissionmated to the engine. I’m going to do the rear transfer case seal and the seal
Where the output shaft connects to the drive shaft. Also have to drain the rear diff while I’m at it. Got 2 quarts of royal
purple 75w90

to answer your other question if I had to do it again I would still not lift it 3 feet in the air without a 2 post lift. Plus it would be easier the second time around since I know what to expect and what will/ can go wrong.
but if I had the space and $1000 I could buy a used 2 post lift off the internet right now. There is also someone selling a very high scissor lift that retails for like $13k for 1500. Man I wish I had money.

 

Good stuff! Looking forward to seeing more progress updates and the end results. Nice one getting it out from the top. Now I'm wondering if your RX330 has the updated "final design" rear valve cover