You'd be adding coolant as well as white steam coming out the exhaust if its a head gasket issue.....Normally I've yet to hear 'bout a h/g issues on 2gr's.......Don't us those worm gear hose clamps, use the originals or new oem hose clamps. I'd also be figuring out why the one heater hose doesn't get to temp, but the other one is up to temp. Possibly a blockage or something?

 

Thx for your comment/input, I to don't think it's a Head gasket issue, but like I said earlier, at operating temp I get cold air from the vents and one heater hose is warm (is what I should have said)
Now if I hold my foot on the gas pedal for a couple of minutes I get plenty of heat like it should, and Both heater core hoses are Hot like they should be(so I'm positive it's not a blockage issue), but after I stop increasing the RPM"s by taking my foot off the gas pedal within 5 minutes it's blowing cold air again
I did notice that the previous owner has replaced 2 of the radiator hose clamps with the screw type (worm) clamps, I did make sure they were tight, I'm sure it's something simple, I just need to recheck all the connections, I'm also going to replace the overflow tank hose and put a small clamp on each end and bleed the system again for any air that is in the system, I've been trying to figure out how I keep getting air into the Cooling system🤔

 

I'd swap out the t-stat & O-ring then, not saying you don't have one but it could be stuck open thou........Years & years ago I had a couple drag cars of which I ran them w/ no Y-stat so they ran cooler......

 

I hit some 37F degree temps before christmas when traveling and when the
engine is fully warmed up it was baking hot air coming out of the vents
at idle.

If you do not have this you may have some air in the system or a bad T-stat.

The air will usually purge running the heat and driving around and end up in the
radiator and you will know as you add coolant.

If you are sucking air I would suspect the radiator cap is failing to hold pressure.

Also, the overflow tube should have no leaks and be in the coolant in the reservoir tank
or it will suck air when the radiator cap is trying drink coolant for the radiator
while it tries to maintain cooling system pressure.

 

Thx for the input, I just remembered something that is leaning me towards the overflow tank hose, like a have said, I pressure tested the Cooling system but the kit doesn't test the overflow tank and hose, but what I just remembered is when I was inspecting for coolant leaks, I didn't find any but I can see evidence of coolant on the front of the engine and cooling fans, looks like the Cooling fans are slinging coolant around, and the overflow tank is just above the cooling fans, I did replace the radiator cap several months ago with a high quality cap

 

Took some pics for ya'll for anyone who wants to see.
I put a black line on the tank with a Sharpie and fill to the line with engine cold.

If I run the car and get the engine good and hot it seems the radiator cap lets some coolant
into the reservoir and the coolant level will usualy rise above the line in pic below.

When sitting overnight and letting the engine cool down, the coolant level usually goes back down
to where it is marked or really close as it gets sucked back into the radiator. It's not perfect but
usually very close to the line, mayble a little above or below and sometimes dead nuts on.


Here is my car with engine cold(aftermarket cooling fans & tank).




This was a fun pic to take. A flashlight and delicate maneuvering to get the camera on my phone down in there.
it shows the reservoir line attaching to the bottom of reservoir for when it needs to drink coolant or put some back in.
-> Plz note- the coolant tank is air vented and not pressurized.

 

What about a water pump? How old is it? OEM?