I ripped the 2 wires - white and black - hiding behind the alternator when taking it out. The space is so tight that I can't see how to remove the connector.
Do I need to evac and remove the AC compressor to get at this and fix it? Does anyone know what this connector is and how it can be removed without taking the compressor out?

Thanks

 

Maybe you can unbolt the compressor without disconnecting the lines and carefully move it out of your way?

 

The compressor can be unbolted, and disconnected from electrical, and pulled up to top of radiator without evap. May need to unbolt transmission oil cooler lines and the upper A/C line clips/bolts to move it, but I removed the whole engine without evaping the A/C, just tied the compressor to top of radiator. (Radiator may have been unbolted at top lock carrier so it could be wiggled at top, but you may need that much room)

It is possible that the radiator hose may be in way there, but that can be disconnected and coolant likely needs refreshing anyway?

 

Is there a how-to post for removing the AC compressor for the RX? I might be able to remove the plug if I can remove the dip stick tube. Can I just pull or is it part of the engine?

 

Dipstick tube part at engine just pulls out. I would replace the o-ring, it is seeping anyway.

 

Just a quick update before i forget: the connector behind the AC compressor is the crank sensor.
the AC can unbolt without an evac to access the crank sensor with the alternator removed. Its 4 long bolts.

Alternator replacement was a massive PITA for the RX
sticking the crank sensor harness to the alternator was the crap ontop of the cake:

remove lots of plastic tubes
remove the bottom plastic covers
remove the fans without breaking any brittle plastic parts (not possible)
remove the wheel
remove the wheel plastic covers
remove the belt
disconnect more things in the way without breaking them
blindly remove the alternator bolts
replace alternator
reverse everything, good luck on reinserting those blind alternator bolts with medium or bigger sized hands



r

 

That sounds about right. lololol

I had to get some 10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets in 1/4" length increments so I will always have the perfect length socket to get down in that timing chain area or lots of cursing happens.
Everything is jammed in so tight with no room to work on modern cars.

 

I have been looking for this thread for 2 HOURS! I did the same thing while getting the L-bracket loose to install the new alternator. I didn't think I would be upbolting the compressor, b/c I'm only doing the pulleys, but now at least I know what that wire ould have done if I hadn't! I am SO THANKFUL for thisforum!!