Alternator Problems... Again
My 3rd alternator in the past 3 months went out today. The whole time I thought my sound system was overworking it. Before the last one I had installed, my cousin told me that the pulley under the alternator (AC compressor?)pully wasnt spinning on startup, thus the squeeling sound on startup and the super hot belts. From what I was told the pulley on the AC compressor is supposed to be turning at all times even when the AC was off. We confirmed that it wasnt turning at all and smelled the burning of the belt from it. With the AC on we observed the pulley was turning. I decided to put it off until I had time this week. Well, unfortunately I drove my car today and the alternator died on me. Now I'm starting to think I did not have faulty alternators, but they were just overworked since the compressor pulley was adding resistance to the belt. Con somebody confirm if this is theory is correct? I already ordered another alternator and I am about to order a compressor too. Any idea why the compressor pulley wouldnt be turning? Any idea how much it would cost to replace the compressor and would it be a difficult DIY? Thanks guys
BTW my AC still blows cold air when turned on.
BTW my AC still blows cold air when turned on.
yea he does ...i think it was Stinger cell ...
his last post about this .. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=255483
his last post about this .. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=255483
yeah I dont think its the amp. I have a optima yellowtop, a sting sp800 dry cell, and a 2 farad cap. I spent over $2500 since the new year on maintenance and repair. I dont wanna drop another $1000 for the compressor and the install. It's killing me. I might just call it quits and get a 4-banger until I save enough for the LS600h
I think I mentioned installing a current limiter on the high value cap. Talk to a elctronics tech, to see if there is one or not. A high current (enough to meet your current demand) choke would do the trick.
A discharged high value cap is like a short and that can kill the electrical system.
Salim
A discharged high value cap is like a short and that can kill the electrical system.
Salim
I think I mentioned installing a current limiter on the high value cap. Talk to a elctronics tech, to see if there is one or not. A high current (enough to meet your current demand) choke would do the trick.
A discharged high value cap is like a short and that can kill the electrical system.
Salim
A discharged high value cap is like a short and that can kill the electrical system.
Salim
Please let me know what your mechanic thinks about the problem. Your porblem with the AC sounds so similar to mine and I have yet to find a time to bring mine in, so any additional information would be great. I'm just sory to hear you went through a few alternators before realizing what was going on.
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I prayed to the Car gods and for some reason it worked. My mechanic came by and started the car just fine. No smoking, no squeeling, nothing. He did a readout of my battery and alternator and they were both putting out 14.5 volts. Weird
Yeah well its starting to act up again. The belts are starting to squeal on startup again. But I double checked and the compressor pulley is turning. AC blowing ice cold. I tested the alternator and batteries and they are both putting out 14.5 volts. But on my capacitor the voltage shows at around 10volts and my sound system is definately sounding like ******. Might be my capacitor after all
sounds like a short in your capacitor system, They can short, but seems to me that would blow stuff real fast. I would put a circuit breaker between the capacitor and 12v to protect the car.
Even when the Capacitor is good, it's function is to prevent voltage change across it. When discharged it is 0v, and when the supply is turned on (12v) it looks like a short.
With 10v across it, some thing is either drawing too much current or there is a bad connection.
Best approach is by systematically isolating electrical load.
Salim
With 10v across it, some thing is either drawing too much current or there is a bad connection.
Best approach is by systematically isolating electrical load.
Salim
It might actually be the cap. like I said, both batteries and the alternator are showing 14.5 volts. Even the capacitor is showing a 14.5 output. But the digital display on the cap shows a low reading at an avg. of 11v. weird. I bought a battery charger last night. I was thinking the cap got discharged when my alternator went out last time. We'll see how it goes.
So it's not my cap either
I took out my cap and ran the power directly to my amp. power from the batteries and right before the amp show 14.5+volts. So I guess my amp has finally given up on me. Lol this went from a compressor problem, to an alternator problem, to a capacitor problem, to an amp problem. But I'm still having squaling alternator belt problems. And the belt is new too.
I took out my cap and ran the power directly to my amp. power from the batteries and right before the amp show 14.5+volts. So I guess my amp has finally given up on me. Lol this went from a compressor problem, to an alternator problem, to a capacitor problem, to an amp problem. But I'm still having squaling alternator belt problems. And the belt is new too.
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