jmu2004

My 2005 RX330 with 165k on it has developed a pretty loud clunking coming out of the rear passenger suspension. More often than not in Toyotas, this is a symptom of a bad sway bar end links. The struts were replaced at around 130k and the ride is fine, but I do notice body roll which also points to worn out end links. I can also manipulate the end links by hand, which I shouldn't be able to do.

Has anyone done this repair? Anyone with an older RX will run into this problem eventually....Seems simple, but just looking for any tips.

thomas1

Very simple job. parts available everywhere including Rock Auto. Might need an open end wrench with allen wrench to hold link end when tightening or removing.

RXGS

iTrader: (2)

If the Allen key doesn't work, use vice grips and a ton of PB blaster. Also, make sure both tires are off the ground, that way the sway bar isn't twisting

jmu2004

Good advice.

I did the rear last night, and it was super easy. I had soaked the bolts in deep creep in the morning, which helped. I still needed the breaker bar to get things loose before using the allen key, but after that it was smooth sailing.

I also replaced the sway bar bushings, which I would recommend.

Anyway, the noise seems to be gone and the body roll is diminished. Can't wait to get to the front!

jmu2004

Just did the front, and that was a bit tougher than the rear due to the area being more crowded. Still pretty easy though..

If your RX feels loose or "floaty" through corners, go ahead and do this repair. My ride quality is great again, and turns/cornering are noticeably tighter.

I think my clunking noise is gone too, but I don't want to jinx it!

Overall, good/easy/cheap repair for a high mileage RX. Just turned 165k and still loving the old girl.

Lexuswiz

iTrader: (1)

In my experience with Toyota/Lexus' from the Rust Belt states, the fronts will be very hard to remove without a torch. On every Toyota (I've done 3) I've done and my RX330, the fronts were so rusted that the allen key stripped halfway and I had to angle grind the nuts off. But this is using only PB blaster the day before and just sockets and allen keys. PITA but worth it. Had I know to use a torch (I forgot every time), it may had made it easier. Not an issue if the bolts are free of rust.

ukrkoz

I had to clamp vise grips super tight on the back of OEM link, to loosen the nut. Nut is apparently pinch nut as it took me cheat pipe to undo it. And I do not live is salt belt.
I am frugal. I installed $26 ones from O'Reilly. They came with zirks and I packed them with grease. Plus, life time warranty. Can't beat warranty and price. They are so tight I had to take channel locks to stud to position it properly.
I don't care if it's OEM or not. Many cheap aftermarket parts actually last longer than OEM $$$$$$$ ones.

jmu2004

I'm not in the rust belt either (though this car has seen plenty of snow being in VA and WVA for skiing), but the front driver's side was heavily rusted. Really the only rust I could find on the undercarriage...