Engine sputtering after plug change RX400h
04-10-16, 10:43 AM
#1
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Engine sputtering after plug change RX400h
Well, I decided to take on the spark plug change on our 07' 400h and was a bit nervous about tearing that far into the vehicle just to change plugs....but after all is said and done, not too bad of a job really! I just took my time along the way.
Everything went smoothly, old plugs didn't look too bad after 153k but were due. I cleaned the TBI unit, as well as the metal runner connected to the plastic intake. I did this by using throttle body cleaner and then let it dry.
Put everything back together and started it up. Runs like a champ!
Took it out to be sure everything was good before handing it back to the wife and after about 10 minutes of driving, I felt a slight sputter. Drove another 30 seconds and then really sputtering, check engine flashing.
Limped it back home sputtering the whole way.
Checked the front plugs and all seem to be in order. Reconnected and started back up. Smooth at idle, then starts sputtering/shaking, then sputter again.
Don't know what to do.
I could limp it to Autozone and get a code pulled, but don't know if they will help much. I could pull it back apart...but seems strange.
I did pull the negative battery connection for 20 minutes and reconnected...same thing.
Any ideas? Even though TBI cleaner dried, could it of done something to the O2 sensor??
Everything went smoothly, old plugs didn't look too bad after 153k but were due. I cleaned the TBI unit, as well as the metal runner connected to the plastic intake. I did this by using throttle body cleaner and then let it dry.
Put everything back together and started it up. Runs like a champ!
Took it out to be sure everything was good before handing it back to the wife and after about 10 minutes of driving, I felt a slight sputter. Drove another 30 seconds and then really sputtering, check engine flashing.
Limped it back home sputtering the whole way.
Checked the front plugs and all seem to be in order. Reconnected and started back up. Smooth at idle, then starts sputtering/shaking, then sputter again.
Don't know what to do.
I could limp it to Autozone and get a code pulled, but don't know if they will help much. I could pull it back apart...but seems strange.
I did pull the negative battery connection for 20 minutes and reconnected...same thing.
Any ideas? Even though TBI cleaner dried, could it of done something to the O2 sensor??
04-11-16, 03:18 PM
#2
Pole Position
Thread Starter
So I decided to double check all my work and dove into the intake manifold removal again (2nd time). I checked all of the connectors and made sure the coil packs were fully engaged. Checked the electrical connectors too. All seem to be in order....so pulled the battery cable again and restarted. Same sputtering going on.
Drove it to Autozone and had them pull the codes. P0300, P0305, P0306 misfires. At least I got it narrowed down. Drove home and the only thing I can think of is either a bad plug or bad coil. So, off I go a third time on intake removal.
I'm getting much faster now....under 1.5 hours in and out! So I take the new plugs out of cylinders 5 & 6, put the new one from front (no code location) and put in in cylinder 5, and grabbed two of the older plugs that worked, and put them in the front two. In otherwords, replaced 5 & 6 locations with known, working plugs. Put it all back together....still sputtering.
So, last resort, coil packs. I've ordered 3 new Denso ones and plan on putting all three new ones in the back (under intake), and take the remaining good coils and plug into front ones. Hopefully, this is the solution. Should get them tomorrow so we'll see.....
Drove it to Autozone and had them pull the codes. P0300, P0305, P0306 misfires. At least I got it narrowed down. Drove home and the only thing I can think of is either a bad plug or bad coil. So, off I go a third time on intake removal.
I'm getting much faster now....under 1.5 hours in and out! So I take the new plugs out of cylinders 5 & 6, put the new one from front (no code location) and put in in cylinder 5, and grabbed two of the older plugs that worked, and put them in the front two. In otherwords, replaced 5 & 6 locations with known, working plugs. Put it all back together....still sputtering.
So, last resort, coil packs. I've ordered 3 new Denso ones and plan on putting all three new ones in the back (under intake), and take the remaining good coils and plug into front ones. Hopefully, this is the solution. Should get them tomorrow so we'll see.....
04-13-16, 09:45 AM
#4
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Well, I got the parts last night from Amazon and hit it once more (4th time now!)
So, first off the Denso coil packs from Amazon arrived fine but instead of Japan, it actually said "made in USA"....don't know if that's a good thing or not. Most feedback on Amazon said theirs came from Japan. Oh well.
I decided to time myself because I've done it so many times. 1 hr on the nose to tear it back down, change out the three rear coil packs, and get everything re-installed again.
I did take the two good coil packs from the rear (not cylinder #5), and used one of those in the front, #6 position, and then kept the other working original in my tool box.
Re-hooked up the battery and started it up. Of course, being a hybrid, the engine doesn't start up right away. After about 10 seconds of waiting....it fired up. Results....smooth as silk!!
Hooray!!
So took it out on the road gently, filled it up with gas and then hit the freeway. Everything is great and all fixed!!
Much better feeling now. Just can't imagine if I brought it into the dealer how much those coil packs would of run. I figure if they did the plugs, they would of put it all back together to discover the bad coil pack. Then I probably would of been charged to tear it all apart again and pay dealer coil price. Could of been close to $600 or $700 when all said and done.
My total cost, $200. 6 new plugs, and 3 new coil packs. Still ahead cost wise....just took a LOT of my time and free labor. Glad it's done before the wife got home!
So, first off the Denso coil packs from Amazon arrived fine but instead of Japan, it actually said "made in USA"....don't know if that's a good thing or not. Most feedback on Amazon said theirs came from Japan. Oh well.
I decided to time myself because I've done it so many times. 1 hr on the nose to tear it back down, change out the three rear coil packs, and get everything re-installed again.
I did take the two good coil packs from the rear (not cylinder #5), and used one of those in the front, #6 position, and then kept the other working original in my tool box.
Re-hooked up the battery and started it up. Of course, being a hybrid, the engine doesn't start up right away. After about 10 seconds of waiting....it fired up. Results....smooth as silk!!
Hooray!!
So took it out on the road gently, filled it up with gas and then hit the freeway. Everything is great and all fixed!!
Much better feeling now. Just can't imagine if I brought it into the dealer how much those coil packs would of run. I figure if they did the plugs, they would of put it all back together to discover the bad coil pack. Then I probably would of been charged to tear it all apart again and pay dealer coil price. Could of been close to $600 or $700 when all said and done.
My total cost, $200. 6 new plugs, and 3 new coil packs. Still ahead cost wise....just took a LOT of my time and free labor. Glad it's done before the wife got home!
04-21-16, 02:24 PM
#5
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Igot these spark plugs:
Denso (3297) SK20R11 IridiumSpark Plug
Got them on Amazon for $6.30 ea. You can also pick them up at Advance Auto but more expensive. You may even check out your local Toyota and Lexus Dealer.
As far as instructions, I basically just went for it. I did look at a few "other type of lexus cars" but some of them actually had more stuff to do. There really is only 3 hoses that you need to disconnect, and they are all at the Throttle Body. Two are coolant ones and the shape pretty well defines where each one goes. The other is maybe the crank case vent...something without liquid.
My recommendation, Definitely get some ratcheting type wrenches. I had them already and love them. IF you don't have them, go get some. There are 3 rear bolts that would be pretty difficult to remove otherwise. But pretty easy with a ratcheting wrench.
Because I just joined the forum, I can't post pictures for 30days. So can't really do a play by play for you.
I did not replace any of the rubber gaskets as some other threads pointed out. Mine seem to be in decent shape. I also didn't do the PCV valve.
Some note worthy key things I can recall.
After removing the throttle body unit (where the electrical connector and 3 hoses plug into), there is a 12MM bolt on right side that holds the intermediate metal intake between the TBI unit and the plastic intake. Then the surrounding bolts and nut to remove from plastic intake.
Two bolts on back side of plastic intake. The one on right side (after metal intake is removed), is a 12MM. The other one is on left side and is a 14MM (I believe).
Once all the intake bolts are removed, and the two nuts....there will be two star studs still holding the plastic intake in place. I used like a 7/32 socket and removed these two studs. That way, the intake can be removed easily.
ON the bottom left of plastic intake, one last black tube that can be easily pulled off by hand. Some type of crankcase vent tube (a 4th one).
I also removed the airbox support bracket that is just left of intake (2 bolts, maybe 14MM).
Now you should be able to change out the plugs.
Installing it all back together:
Before installing the two star studs, you want to first get the12MM bolt started on back, right side of intake. You may have to move the intake up or down a bit to get the threads started. Then, get the left bolt in 14MM on left side. They don't need to be tight, just be sure they are fully engaged.
Then you can install the two star studs. I just snugged them down a bit. Not overly cranking them too tight.
Then intake bolts (after metal bracket is installed). I did not have any torque settings but before removal the first time, I took my torque wrench and dialed it until it just clicked and the bolt moved slightly. That value was 30 ft-lbs.
It's plastic so don't want to crank too hard. I did it a number of times so I think 30 ft-lbs is a pretty safe value. I started at the middle bolt and worked my way outwards for even seating.
Then metal intake, TBI unit....and the rest.
Denso (3297) SK20R11 IridiumSpark Plug
Got them on Amazon for $6.30 ea. You can also pick them up at Advance Auto but more expensive. You may even check out your local Toyota and Lexus Dealer.
As far as instructions, I basically just went for it. I did look at a few "other type of lexus cars" but some of them actually had more stuff to do. There really is only 3 hoses that you need to disconnect, and they are all at the Throttle Body. Two are coolant ones and the shape pretty well defines where each one goes. The other is maybe the crank case vent...something without liquid.
My recommendation, Definitely get some ratcheting type wrenches. I had them already and love them. IF you don't have them, go get some. There are 3 rear bolts that would be pretty difficult to remove otherwise. But pretty easy with a ratcheting wrench.
Because I just joined the forum, I can't post pictures for 30days. So can't really do a play by play for you.
I did not replace any of the rubber gaskets as some other threads pointed out. Mine seem to be in decent shape. I also didn't do the PCV valve.
Some note worthy key things I can recall.
After removing the throttle body unit (where the electrical connector and 3 hoses plug into), there is a 12MM bolt on right side that holds the intermediate metal intake between the TBI unit and the plastic intake. Then the surrounding bolts and nut to remove from plastic intake.
Two bolts on back side of plastic intake. The one on right side (after metal intake is removed), is a 12MM. The other one is on left side and is a 14MM (I believe).
Once all the intake bolts are removed, and the two nuts....there will be two star studs still holding the plastic intake in place. I used like a 7/32 socket and removed these two studs. That way, the intake can be removed easily.
ON the bottom left of plastic intake, one last black tube that can be easily pulled off by hand. Some type of crankcase vent tube (a 4th one).
I also removed the airbox support bracket that is just left of intake (2 bolts, maybe 14MM).
Now you should be able to change out the plugs.
Installing it all back together:
Before installing the two star studs, you want to first get the12MM bolt started on back, right side of intake. You may have to move the intake up or down a bit to get the threads started. Then, get the left bolt in 14MM on left side. They don't need to be tight, just be sure they are fully engaged.
Then you can install the two star studs. I just snugged them down a bit. Not overly cranking them too tight.
Then intake bolts (after metal bracket is installed). I did not have any torque settings but before removal the first time, I took my torque wrench and dialed it until it just clicked and the bolt moved slightly. That value was 30 ft-lbs.
It's plastic so don't want to crank too hard. I did it a number of times so I think 30 ft-lbs is a pretty safe value. I started at the middle bolt and worked my way outwards for even seating.
Then metal intake, TBI unit....and the rest.
Last edited by SkiMe; 03-15-17 at 09:30 AM.
04-27-16, 07:32 AM
#7
Awesome job, any photos or images that can help? I like to visualize the job before I have a hundred pieces lay across the garage. Perhaps we can add this to the maintenance sticky!
Trending Topics
04-27-16, 08:41 AM
#11
Pole Position
Thread Starter
Remove 1 nut and 4 studs (I believe) that hold the metal intake to the plastic intake. There is one other bolt on side of metal intake that needs to be removed, too.
04-27-16, 08:51 AM
#12
Pole Position
Thread Starter
I took the metal intake and TBI and cleaned them with TBI cleaner. Quite a bit of junk (for 150k miles) but nothing too shocking.
Next step is remove the first, hard bolt on right back side of plastic intake.
Next step is remove the first, hard bolt on right back side of plastic intake.
04-27-16, 09:10 AM
#14
Pole Position
Thread Starter
The two outside nuts that hold down the intake, need to be removed.
The allen head bolts need to be removed.
Keep black grounding wire on secondary metal bracket, and fold to the side.
At this point, the plastic intake should be able to move around freely (with the exception of the two star studs. I used a 7/32 type socket to remove those two studs....then the entire intake can be removed.
The allen head bolts need to be removed.
Keep black grounding wire on secondary metal bracket, and fold to the side.
At this point, the plastic intake should be able to move around freely (with the exception of the two star studs. I used a 7/32 type socket to remove those two studs....then the entire intake can be removed.