Cargo Hatch Switch Replacement How-To with Pics
01-13-14, 11:14 AM
#17
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Great post and pics on how to remove and replace the switch. Saved money by ordering part from Sewell! It took me no more than 25 mins from start to finish. Thanks for the post.
03-20-15, 11:26 AM
#19
Driver School Candidate
yep, just 30 minutes
Great instructions, took exactly 30 minutes.
The Lexus dealer in Scottsdale wanted $350 to do the job. I got the part on e-Bay for $40, and 30 minutes later I was done. Saved me over $300.
A couple of hints on the instructions:
1. Use a really long flat head screw driver to pop the clips that are hard to reach.
2. There are cutouts in the deck lid which permit you use a ratchet and extension for all 5 of the nuts. (The image showed an open end wrench, which works but is slower).
3. Goo Gone or Goof-off will remove most of the nasty rubber residue.
The Lexus dealer in Scottsdale wanted $350 to do the job. I got the part on e-Bay for $40, and 30 minutes later I was done. Saved me over $300.
A couple of hints on the instructions:
1. Use a really long flat head screw driver to pop the clips that are hard to reach.
2. There are cutouts in the deck lid which permit you use a ratchet and extension for all 5 of the nuts. (The image showed an open end wrench, which works but is slower).
3. Goo Gone or Goof-off will remove most of the nasty rubber residue.
07-29-15, 01:14 PM
#20
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Thanks..2 years later for the post!! My 2008 400h just went sticky and I got the part in the mail today. Funny that this never happened to my '07 400h, never an issue. Now I'll just have to wait for it to be cool enough in TX to install!
09-03-15, 02:47 PM
#22
Have not done this since I have not seen the issue but happy to know that it can be done quickly with the instructions here.
Thank you to the members who spend time to share their time taking pictures and posting detailed step by step.
Paying forward works!
Thank you to the members who spend time to share their time taking pictures and posting detailed step by step.
Paying forward works!
12-16-15, 12:08 PM
#23
Well it finally happened. The switch got gooey and I had to replace it. Thanks to your write up it only took me 25 minutes from start to finish. And thanks to eBay for finding the part for $45. Works great again. By the way, you need a 10mm DEEP WELL socket or an open end wrench to remove the nuts.
02-28-16, 05:16 PM
#24
Driver School Candidate
Just wanted to bump this thread for how useful, thorough, and simple/straightforward this thread/process is. Many thanks to the OP.
I bought the part on eBay for $29.00 and put it in myself.
A few pointers:
1. I naively tackled the job without first reading this and tried taking off the two external screws on the actual switch first. Very difficult and I needed a really small phillips screwdriver. Just wait til you get it all apart.
2. Racheting wrenches make quick work of the 5 10mm nuts that hold the outer trim on. Just a thought.
Thanks again and ANYONE can do this DIY. Very straightforward. Don't take it to the dealer.
I bought the part on eBay for $29.00 and put it in myself.
A few pointers:
1. I naively tackled the job without first reading this and tried taking off the two external screws on the actual switch first. Very difficult and I needed a really small phillips screwdriver. Just wait til you get it all apart.
2. Racheting wrenches make quick work of the 5 10mm nuts that hold the outer trim on. Just a thought.
Thanks again and ANYONE can do this DIY. Very straightforward. Don't take it to the dealer.
04-08-16, 08:28 PM
#25
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Join Date: Oct 2006
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Just as an FYI, there is a seller on Ebay now selling just the replacement rubber cover for this switch. It is aftermarket and claims to be better rubber that won't turn gooey like the original. Cost is around $20 so not a huge savings but if your switch is still working you should be able to change out the rubber cover by just removing the two screws and working with the little bit of wire slack available. I'll be doing mine this weekend.
Thanks to the OP for the great write up showing how this all goes together.
Thanks to the OP for the great write up showing how this all goes together.
05-31-16, 11:56 AM
#26
............
Just as an FYI, there is a seller on Ebay now selling just the replacement rubber cover for this switch. It is aftermarket and claims to be better rubber that won't turn gooey like the original. Cost is around $20 so not a huge savings but if your switch is still working you should be able to change out the rubber cover by just removing the two screws and working with the little bit of wire slack available. I'll be doing mine this weekend.
Thanks to the OP for the great write up showing how this all goes together.
Thanks to the OP for the great write up showing how this all goes together.
Switch is working fine just the rubber cover failed so why replace the entire switch.....
Here is the link..............
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Trunk-Ha...lXArg0&vxp=mtr
Last edited by 5gears-IS; 05-31-16 at 12:03 PM.
01-26-17, 11:10 AM
#27
Instructor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Trunk-Hatch-Liftgate-Switch-Latch-Release-Button-Cover-Replacement-fr-Toyota-/111958177037?hash=item1a113a350d:g:jsUAAOSwbwlXArg0&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true
I picked one up at the junk yard that was in excellent condition.
Also to note when I was removing the trim piece from the junk yard the nuts were just spinning. Later I found out the actual threaded piece was spinning in the plastic. I just had to force it out
I picked one up at the junk yard that was in excellent condition.
Also to note when I was removing the trim piece from the junk yard the nuts were just spinning. Later I found out the actual threaded piece was spinning in the plastic. I just had to force it out
07-12-17, 04:53 PM
#29
05-06-18, 06:35 PM
#30
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Rear Gate Switch
Excellent Instructions
Bought the Panel Prying Tools from local parts store but did not need. The long flat head screw driver did help on those upper pry pins. This is definitely one of those entries where I wished I had joined the club first and read all the comments before attempting the task. What an excellent post. great to see all the positive feedback with additional suggestions.
Bought the Panel Prying Tools from local parts store but did not need. The long flat head screw driver did help on those upper pry pins. This is definitely one of those entries where I wished I had joined the club first and read all the comments before attempting the task. What an excellent post. great to see all the positive feedback with additional suggestions.
