JM2C: Why worry about using extended use oil if you are set on using normal synthetic oil at 6~7K per?

 

Personally, I would run an oil analysis on the M1 EP at around 8,000 miles. I took M1 EP to 8,600 miles on our RX330 and it was spent. The TBN was just over 2 and the oil took an absolute beating.

On the other hand, the oil analysis for Pennzoil Platinum at 5,000 suggested I could easily go 7,500 miles. I just decided 5,000 was an easy interval, so I haven't pushed it since.

As usual, YMMV.

 

FWIW, My RX330 oil analysis with Pennzoil Platinum at 7,500 miles was very good and subsequently chose that interval. I could probably have extended that test to 10k but thought I'd stay within the manufacturer's recommendations for warranty purposes.

 

Is there a difference between "Extended Performance' and the LL (01 or other) Long Life standard?

 

Mandyfig: That is an excellent question. Broadening it, it leads to wonder whether one should just do what is really needed or whether the 'additional security' of over-kill is worth it. E.g.: My BMW requires LL oil, supposedly good for the earlier of 15K miles or one year. I do about 4-5K miles per year, change oil every year. Do I need an LL oil or is a 'regular' synth like Mob 1 5w-30 good enough? -- A friend, whose car requires only 'regular' gasoline, swears that he feels it works better when he puts in 93 every four tankfuls (and he drives to nearly empty each time!). The car never 'pings'. Maybe so much is in the mind of the beholder, when the service required is far from the edge of the requirement.

 

Any well-known brand of 5w30 synthetic motor oil changed every 5000 miles will get the excellent Lexus engine through 200,000+ miles with no problems. If you have the desire, tools, etc. changing the oil yourself means the oil you buy really gets into the engine. I'd be more worried about paying for oil that never makes it into the engine.

Tom

 

these 3mz-fe`s beat up oil pretty bad.

 

Very good point. At least if you are a DIY'er you are assured that everything is done properly. I do mine between 6~7K on P Platinums.

 

Syntec is fully synthetic. Castrol does make a blended oil but it is not Syntec. Check out the link.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/produ...Castrol_SYNTEC


Cat

 

Indeed, Cat, you are correct. I also note that the 0w30 is the only grade that meets the BMW LL01 requirement, which is good for me to know. Thanks!

 

My Z has been out of warranty for a number of years. 5W-30 is the recommended weight to use for my 2.5 L engine and although it does not meet BMW's LLO1 requirement does not mean it is harmful to the engine. My bimmer is a garage queen anyway so the oil gets changed yearly with only 3-4 K miles on the clock. I read somewhere that Castrol is the company that makes the BMW brand oil so I'm thinking there is a marketing ploy playing here. JMHO



Cat

 

BMW Synthetic is known to be Castrol Softec TXT 5w-30, which is not a cheap oil. It is not marketed outside BMW dealerships in North America.

The easiest way to tell would be to look at the back of the BMW bottle and see if it meets LL-01 or LL-04 and ACEA A3. There are very few (if any) 5W30 motor oils which meet ACEA A3.

 

some good information you guys are given. Synthetic is the best way to go with these engines. as mentioned before these engines run hot and are rough on the engine oil. and no I don't mean your temp gauge is reading hot.

 

I am so happy that I posted this discussion item. Lots of great replies and
discussion. Thanks all. Have a wonderful Thanksgiving Holiday.
Don