Does anyone know of an easy way to replace the brake fluid. I have a RX 350 and the dealer wants $120 to flush the system..Seems high to me.

 

I haven't done it yet on my 05 but I will this summer. In my other cars, here is what I do:

1. cover the fenders EXTREMELY well. Brake fluid will ruin your paint finish if it is on there for even a second.
2. I use Valvoline Synpower brake fluid (Advance Auto/Auto Zone, etc) http://www.valvoline.com/pages/produ...asp?product=51
Always start with a fresh, sealed container.
3. Take your wife's turkey baster (don't tell her ) and suction out the old in the master cylinder. Squirt it into a tall container. If you have a suction gun, like MityVac, that will work extremely well. Refill the MC with fresh fluid. Lay the lid on top of the MC (not secured) and cover with a rag. The brake fluid has a habit of squirting up. See note 1.
4. have your helper sit in the driver's seat while you go to the right rear to drain the brake line. I use the sequence of RR, LR, RF, LF, starting at the brake caliper the farthest from the MC. Often times the brake bleeder on the caliper may stick. If so, squirt it with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating oil. Fwiw, WD-40 is a miserable penetrant.
5. helper pumps the brake pedal 3-4 times and holds the pedal. You will already have taken a clear, two foot long piece of hose from the auto parts store, and placed it into a bottle with 2 inches of clean brake fluid. Slowly release the brake bleeder and note that the tube fills with fluid while the brake pedal sinks to the floor. HOLD THE PEDAL.
6. Tighten the brake bleeder at the caliper. NOT overly tight. Helper releases the brake pedal and pumps 3-4 times again, stopping when the pedal gets firm. Repeat this process until the brake fluid runs clean. That means that the fresh fluid in the MC has displaced all of the brake fluid in the caliper and brake line to that brake only.
7. Refill the MC, covering as before when done.
8. Now go to the left rear, LR, and start over. Then, RF and LF topping off between each bleed. Takes less than an hour and you know the job is done well.
9. remove the rag from the MC, check the fluid level, refill as necessary. Secure the lid. WIpe up any excess brake fluid and dispose of the rags if they are contaminated with brake fluid.

Here is an alternate procedure:
http://www.advanceautoparts.com/engl...KE%20FLUID.pdf

This link assumes that you have a MityVac suction gun, like I do, but I don't use it for brakes. I prefer the pump and drain method I just described.

 

Sure makes that $ 120.00 dollars sound like a bargain to me......

 

Good writeup .. But even if you don't tell your wife, you need throw away the turkey baster.

My tool box now has a turkey flavor injector, which I find very handy to suck out brake fluid, power steering fluids etc. Dentists use a monojet to irrigate worked upon gum ... which is very similar to the flavor injector but does not have the sharp needle.

Salim

ps: RX being high, is easy to work under, but the process will take you 45 min to 1 hr.

 

Is this brake fluid change (flush) recommended for 30K service?

 

It should be time dependent and not milage. 2 yrs.

Salim

 

the price is about right. typically the charge is 1 hour labor plus parts/fluids.
there is an easier way to bleed teh fluid....
post #2 is 100% absolutely correct in how to do it properly but if you want quick and dirty, try this.
1. get a big bottle of brake fluid, 32oz. not hte small pint size ones.
2. suck out fluid from reservoir as much as possib.le but don't completely dry it out or spend too much time on it. just get the bulk of fluid out. refill reservoir with new fluid.
3
crawl under right rear. remove valve cover from bleeder valve.attach small hose to valve. loosen valve until fluid comes out readily. it won't pour out. 10mm wrench is waht you need.
let fluid drain while you start on your first beer. watch the reservoir and top it up while fluid drains out. give it about 6 minutes.
4 close valve. go to next 3 wheels in pattern described in post 2. finish beer and start next one.
5. keep topping up reservoir. the front wheels will only need about 3 minutes to drain, as they are closer to the reservoir and don't have as much line to evacuate.
6. top up reservoir, reinstall cap. done.

 

Power Bleeder FTMFW!!

 

19psi
I like your idea better. a six pack,a quart bottle and a big bottle of brake fluid..I wouldn't even need the wife to pump the brakes, now if I can get her to bring me the beer...

 

Except when you have four cars. Now $150 sounds like $600 and I let NO ONE touch my 72 Corvette, which I do the bleed myself. If your are a one or two car owner, do very little of your own work, then, yes, this is not an unreasonable cost.

Salimshah, the turkey baster, like other tools can be cleaned and reused for its original purpose. Btw, you want an invitation to Thanksgiving dinner with all the trimmings, including turkey?

Gary

 

Just go to one of those .99 store and buy yourself a turkey baster.

 

A thorough cleaning would do the job, but cleaning a narrow tube can be tough. Adding to the tool collection is appealing to me and with so many carcinogen in chemicals ....

2007 Thanksgiving was the first in 6 years that I did not cook turkey (got invited out) and I can very easily be convinced to be invited every year ...

Salim

 

Is brake fluid change really necessary?
I have not changed my brake fluid for 3 years, I don't feel any brake performance issue. It is still tight and stops well.
Shouldn't we wait till we feel the saggy brake then change it?

 

yes it is absolutely necessary. brake fluid by nature absorbs moisture from teh air. the cap on the reservoir is not airtight. over time, all that moisture builds up in the braking system, causing rust in allthe metal components like calipers and master cylinders. that rust then causes the seals to leak, leading to component failure and expensive replacement.
additonally, moisture in brake fluid will boil during heavy use, causing the pedal to get spongy and even sink to the floor.
i change mine every 15k miles.

 

This can also be accomplished with one person. I guarantee quick results with this method.

What you need is a piece of (I Like clear hose) hose and a cup or container with over an inch of brake fluid in the bottom. Put one end of the hose on the bleeder and loop the hose up a couple inches and put the other in the container with the end of the hose submerged in the fluid.

Open the bleeder 1/2-3/4 turn and pump away. Make sure the master cyl doesn't go dry. Since the hose goes up and the end of the hose is in the fluid air will not back up into the caliper. Air is the enemy here.

I was a part-time mechanic and this method really helps on clutch master and slave cylinders which would take an hour with the pump and hold method.

They also sell a "1 man brake bleeder" kit at auto stores. All it is- is a check valve and they cost around 20 bucks..