RX 350 Oil Change Procedure
01-06-10, 11:17 AM
#31
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: May 2007
Location: WA
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Perhaps, next time I'll add pixs. This was my first time changing on the lex...so didn't want to bother. I think prior to my next oil change, I will have made sure I can remove the oil filter drain bolt in advance, so that the steps are really what they should be, in theory.
The main reason why I'm even bothering with removing it is it reduces the chances of making a mess. It wasn't that bad removing the filter without draining first (in terms of making an oil mess), but I just prefer to follow procedure...that's just how I roll...lol
The main reason why I'm even bothering with removing it is it reduces the chances of making a mess. It wasn't that bad removing the filter without draining first (in terms of making an oil mess), but I just prefer to follow procedure...that's just how I roll...lol
07-26-12, 12:13 PM
#32
Driver School Candidate
I hope I am not missing this plastic shroud.
07-26-12, 12:26 PM
#33
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...eneration-212/
09-15-13, 09:00 PM
#34
Driver School Candidate
Question on the torque specs for the oil filter. There is a stamp on the oil filter housing that says 25Nm, which equates to 18.44 ft-lb. I assumed that this spec was for the oil filter drain plug. Is this correct?
As for the oil filter housing, I just tightened it by feel, is there a torque spec?
As for the oil filter housing, I just tightened it by feel, is there a torque spec?
03-09-14, 01:56 AM
#37
Driver School Candidate
I guess I was very lucky, I bought my 2007 RX-350 ith 39K miles from the local Lexus dealer in 2009. Checked and found it to be a car that was leased in southern California. I had the dealer do the first free service where they changed the oil line under warranty(good) and went into a poor explanation of why the 10% high reading speedometer is OK! (bad) I thought about sending a long letter to the "Captain" ( Roger Pensky) who owns the dealer group, I procrastinated until it got to be time for my first oil change. I read everything related to the tools required, bought two different wrenches to remove the canister holding the filter element. I started the job and found that using a 3/8" ratchet handle and an extension to remove the small plug turned the canister and that was all that was required. I tried removing the plug with the canister in a large bench vise and quit before I damaged anything! So now it's a far easier task since the 3/8" drive extension is a very positive and easy and fast way to remove the canister, Yes, I do get some oil on my hand removing it this way, but I have got oil on my hands doing oil changes for over 63 years and it pleases me to throw away the small plastic drain device and the unused small o-ring. So if you can't remove the drain plug on the filter canister, count your blessing and thank the Lexus mechanic who overtightened the plug. And be sure to return the unused filter wrenches. I was prepared to use the 16" channel lock pliers which were needed to change oil filters on Lancia Beta's if these wrenches did not work!
04-23-14, 08:01 AM
#38
Driver School Candidate
04-23-14, 11:42 AM
#39
Lead Lap
I guess I was very lucky, I bought my 2007 RX-350 ith 39K miles from the local Lexus dealer in 2009. Checked and found it to be a car that was leased in southern California. I had the dealer do the first free service where they changed the oil line under warranty(good) and went into a poor explanation of why the 10% high reading speedometer is OK! (bad) I thought about sending a long letter to the "Captain" ( Roger Pensky) who owns the dealer group, I procrastinated until it got to be time for my first oil change. I read everything related to the tools required, bought two different wrenches to remove the canister holding the filter element. I started the job and found that using a 3/8" ratchet handle and an extension to remove the small plug turned the canister and that was all that was required. I tried removing the plug with the canister in a large bench vise and quit before I damaged anything! So now it's a far easier task since the 3/8" drive extension is a very positive and easy and fast way to remove the canister, Yes, I do get some oil on my hand removing it this way, but I have got oil on my hands doing oil changes for over 63 years and it pleases me to throw away the small plastic drain device and the unused small o-ring. So if you can't remove the drain plug on the filter canister, count your blessing and thank the Lexus mechanic who overtightened the plug. And be sure to return the unused filter wrenches. I was prepared to use the 16" channel lock pliers which were needed to change oil filters on Lancia Beta's if these wrenches did not work!
I do find it best to take the main front plastic belly pan off. Cause oil gets spilled on it and its best to keep it clean. Oil that sits on the belly pan finds its way to the front exhaust and the smell of 'baking' oil is never nice. You would say No! What about the plastic clips? I bought a new set and tightened a small loop of fishing line, the size of your dime around the neck of the clip ( that must be done before you install it). Easy to pull the clip out, with no damage to it.
What I would like is the torque spec on the oil drain plug (the one on the sump of course, not the one on the canister) though.
Last edited by nipponbird; 04-23-14 at 11:45 AM.
04-19-19, 12:33 PM
#40
Driver School Candidate
Torque
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight) [my 2007 ES350 2GR-FE cannister indicates 25 Nm and Haynes 92009-2R indicates 18 ft-lb]
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque. [Haynes 92009-2R indicates 120 in-lb 2AR-FE and ALL V6s]
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft. [Haynes 92009-2R2 also indicates 30 ft-lb for V6 and 2AR-FE (2010 and later) BUT 2AZ-FE is 80 in-lb (2009 and earlier]
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque. [Haynes 92009-2R indicates 120 in-lb 2AR-FE and ALL V6s]
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft. [Haynes 92009-2R2 also indicates 30 ft-lb for V6 and 2AR-FE (2010 and later) BUT 2AZ-FE is 80 in-lb (2009 and earlier]
Just did my first oil change on my Canadian made RX350 MY 2007. I don't have pictures, but description might help others.
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
Items needed:
1. 65mm end cap oil filter socket. Do not use combined 65/67mm socket as it is too deep. Purchased at NAPA for $9.00 USD.
2. 10mm socket for removing plastic oil filter cover (part of underbody plastic shroud)
3. 14mm socket to remove oilpan nut.
4. 3/8" drive ratchet wrench and extension to remove oil filter housing drain plug.
5. Toyota/Lexus oil filter insert. Contains a small and large rubber "O" ring and a plastic drain tube. Oil pan nut crush washer. $7.00 at the Lexus dealership.
6. 6.4 qts of oil.
7. Torque wrench (if so inclined)
I used solid ramps, but there appears to be enough clearance without.
1. Locate oil filter and oil pan nut. As you face the front bumper halfway between the center and left edge is a good reference point.
2. Slide under car. A plastic shroud covers the leading edge. Look up and you should see a plastic door with a hinge towards the front and two 10mm bolts towards the rear. This covers the oil filter housing. Remove the bolts and the cover should come off easily.
3. Use the 3/8" drive of your ratchet to remove the oil filter drain bolt. You may deed an extension. Once the bolt is removed, take the plastic drain tube and snap it into the opening. This requires a bit of force to overcome the spring loaded seal. Once in place, the oil from the housing will drain.
4. While letting this drain, remove the 14mm oil pan nut. You will find this located about a foot behind the oil filter. No plastic shroud covering it. The oil pan nut washer WILL stick to the oil pan. I needed to remove it with a sharp knife to shear it off. It does pop off in one piece.
5. Once the oil filter housing is drained, snap off the plastic tube. The rubber O ring that sealed the bolt will be removed by the tube. Don't worry, you have a new one.
6. Use the 65mm socket on your ratchet to remove the filter housing. Depending upon who muscled it on the time before, it may be easy or hard.
7. Upon removal of the filter housing, remove filter element and toss. Check inside of housing for debris (unlikely). Remove and replace large outer O ring. Remember to oil it. I roll it into place rather than stretch or drag to prevent any damage. Replace the small O ring at the base and thread the drain bolt back in place hand tight. Oil it as well.
8. Place new filter element into the housing. It is a snug fit. Thread the filter housing back into place by hand to prevent cross threading. It will not go on very far due to the rubber O ring. Use the 65mm filter socket on torque wrench to seat the housing and torque to 20 lb ft. (not very tight)
9. Use the 3/8 " extension on the torque wrench to tighten the filter housing drain bolt to 10 lb ft torque.
10. Place a new crush washer (from dealer) on pan nut and torque to 30 lb ft.
11. Use funnel to replace 6.4 qts oil and replace cover.
12. Start engine and check for leaks.
13. Replace oil filter housing cover with the two 10 mm bolts. These are plastic so be gentle. Just make them snug.
14. Pat self on back for a job well done.
Steve
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