Need help diagnosing what's causing this positive camber issue when it's on 4-point lift. I had the alignment done maybe 2 months back but had to get NYS inspection done and noticed it was still this. There is accelerated wear on the outer edge of my tires which I attributed mainly to the lack of an alignment but did not think it would still do this- unless this is normal...? There is a lot of rumbling when taking curves at highway speeds as well coming from the rear.

Didn't ask the mechanics since it was more and an in-n-out thing before work. I DIY whatever work I can so if I can I will.

2009 RX350 w/ 190k Miles. Bought at 142k miles and drove 50k on it myself.
Struts replaced 3 years ago and tires.
Sway bar end links replaced less than a year ago (went bad already, a lot of clunking/squealing noise when driving and getting up from rear of car).
Unknown age of control arms/ball joints- possibly stock. No history on Lexus website from about 120k miles - 140k miles.

 

Try to loosen the two strut bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle. If you require more camber Toyota sells camber bolts (just 1 req on top per side) to adjust it, but likely it's not that. Push knuckle further inward to make it more negative, or pull it out for positive. Some aftermarket struts have more slop/adjustment on these holes so if it's left alone without consideration when installing, it can go too positive, which I learned the hard way too. I'm guessing what happened to you is the same thing that happened to me, some 08-09 RX have 17mm knuckle holes, but mine had 15mm, and almost all aftermarket 08-09 rear struts have a 17mm, so the extra slop will make it go positive if you don't push the knuckle inward.

 

Did you also use KYB struts? Sounds like I may need those cam bolts if that's the case.

 

I use Sachs, but I think KYBs have it too. I think your issue will be corrected if you just loosen the two bolts, hold the knuckle inward with you knee and just impact the bolts back in with held in place. You would be able to tell if the knuckle could move freely with the two strut bolts loosened but not fully-removed.

 

Thanks! Gonna try to get to it this weekend or next as it's almost time for an oil change so I can knock out some maintenance all at once.

 

You'll need to get an alignment after the adjustment as your toe will change a bit, but it'll be solid after. These RXs and most cars do gain a bit of positive camber when lifted up, as I found when I did my own alignment on mine and I had to set the negative camber to -3 in the air just to get -2 on the rear when loaded up back on the ground

 

Oh darn forgot about the alignment part. Which sway bar end links (front/rear) for a stock bar do you recommend while you're here?

 

I personally wouldn't put any effort into figuring it out without getting it on an alignment rack. Even if you make changes and get the wheel to sit properly, you'll still have to have a proper alignment. Let them do the hard work. If they say they can't get it in line, ask them if you can go back and see what they're talking about. If something is seized, bent, etc. you'll be able to order parts.

Any changes made to alignment in the rear can severely affect the driving dynamics. That's why you start in the rear of the car when doing four wheel alignments.