Lexus RX 350 MILEAGE issue
Hello all users.
Hope you all are fine.
I had recently purchased a lexus rx 350 (2007) model from a family here with 131k odometer for 11k. It seemed like a really good deal considering the low mileage, I grabbed it as fast as I could.
After driving for a few days, I have suddenly started noticing all these small problems here and there and had taken the car for a safety check with the the 3 issues
(Brakes pad change, calipher change in front wheel, and a power steering fluid leak) with power steering fluid seeming the most expensive. Fixing them with time is not an issue as I will try to collect money here and there and try to fix them within a year as I have fell in love with the drive and feel of the car.
Recently even when I got the car, it was filled with E10 petrol as that's what the previous owner had been driving. I had filled it to brim with 95 petrol and had seen the mileage being 380-420 being driven in a very busy suburban area with constant brake and being in traffic.
I just wanted to ask, if this is the normal mileage for this car as its a v6? being filled 72 lites of petrol is this the average mileage am I expected to get? or is it supposed to be more and if more what could be the reason for it being so less?
If people who own the car can chime on this please that would be very nice as my nights have become a nightmare thinking about this car
Thank you
Hope you all are fine.
I had recently purchased a lexus rx 350 (2007) model from a family here with 131k odometer for 11k. It seemed like a really good deal considering the low mileage, I grabbed it as fast as I could.
After driving for a few days, I have suddenly started noticing all these small problems here and there and had taken the car for a safety check with the the 3 issues
(Brakes pad change, calipher change in front wheel, and a power steering fluid leak) with power steering fluid seeming the most expensive. Fixing them with time is not an issue as I will try to collect money here and there and try to fix them within a year as I have fell in love with the drive and feel of the car.
Recently even when I got the car, it was filled with E10 petrol as that's what the previous owner had been driving. I had filled it to brim with 95 petrol and had seen the mileage being 380-420 being driven in a very busy suburban area with constant brake and being in traffic.
I just wanted to ask, if this is the normal mileage for this car as its a v6? being filled 72 lites of petrol is this the average mileage am I expected to get? or is it supposed to be more and if more what could be the reason for it being so less?
If people who own the car can chime on this please that would be very nice as my nights have become a nightmare thinking about this car
Thank you
Fill PS reservoir with Lucas Oil PS stop leak whenever it is low, been working like a charm for 7 years on my 2008. Your steering boots may have rotted out from the PS leak, cheap to replace them to keep dirt out if they are bad.
Gas mileage, I just did a couple things that helped my newly pruchased car get far better mileage. I was averaging 20mpg now getting 24mpg on my RX330. You're in another continent so need to do the conversions but know it is a 20% improvement in my case..
This will cost almost nothing but require you to reset the windows, sunroof, and seat memories
#1 - disconnect battery - this will reset the EMC and it will need to relearn your driving habits doing this you'll need to reset the windows, sunroof, rear door, and seat memories
#2 - clean the throttle body - using a rag with brake cleaner wipe down the throttle body well it will have lot of dirt and soot on it - is your air cleaner new? Very cheap and easy to replace
#3 - clean the O2 sensors with brake or carb cleaner. Mine were easily accessible one from the top in front the other below front. Spray wtih carb cleaner, wipe down, reinstall
#4 - clean MAF - spray with with MAF cleaner careful not to touch the element with anything just spray it well and reinstall
#5 - make sure your tires are properly inflated. I prefer mine at 36 lbs which is above the factory recommendation
Reconnect battery
All of this takes maybe 2 hours
Using gas that is above the factory recomemndation does nothing positive for the engine, some think because it costs more it must be better but all studies have proven otherwise - here in the states 85 octane for the RX330 and RX350> uses min 91 octane is what Lexus calls for. Most all our pumps here in Boise, ID are 87 or 91 either work fine in my '04 RX330 no need to spend extra it doesn't add anything but additional expense and in no way is "better" quality... some people like to toss in a bottle of Seafoam or Techroline every few fill ups
Obviously you should be knowledgeable of when your last tune-up was including - spark plugs (cheap but takes time to reaplece the rear ones), air cleaner, vent lines (very cheap should be replaced every 100K miles costs less than $20), EGR valve (do this when replacing rear plugs cost $7), oil changes for engine/trans/diffs.
My unsolicited advice - spray clean the engine very well, get it spotless then you start with a clean slate and can identify where leaks are coming from and how bad they are. At this point you have no idea if they were from overfilling or something else. Start with a slate.
Change out your power steering fluid and brake fluid then monitor them constantly. There are a lot of things under the car that can leak easy to get them all confused. If it is the power steering then try the above solution but KNOW before trying to fix stuff as so many here and everyplace else just start throwing cash at solutions before knowing that the problems are mechanicns and dealerships LOVE doing this at your expense.
Hope this helps
This will cost almost nothing but require you to reset the windows, sunroof, and seat memories
#1 - disconnect battery - this will reset the EMC and it will need to relearn your driving habits doing this you'll need to reset the windows, sunroof, rear door, and seat memories
#2 - clean the throttle body - using a rag with brake cleaner wipe down the throttle body well it will have lot of dirt and soot on it - is your air cleaner new? Very cheap and easy to replace
#3 - clean the O2 sensors with brake or carb cleaner. Mine were easily accessible one from the top in front the other below front. Spray wtih carb cleaner, wipe down, reinstall
#4 - clean MAF - spray with with MAF cleaner careful not to touch the element with anything just spray it well and reinstall
#5 - make sure your tires are properly inflated. I prefer mine at 36 lbs which is above the factory recommendation
Reconnect battery
All of this takes maybe 2 hours
Using gas that is above the factory recomemndation does nothing positive for the engine, some think because it costs more it must be better but all studies have proven otherwise - here in the states 85 octane for the RX330 and RX350> uses min 91 octane is what Lexus calls for. Most all our pumps here in Boise, ID are 87 or 91 either work fine in my '04 RX330 no need to spend extra it doesn't add anything but additional expense and in no way is "better" quality... some people like to toss in a bottle of Seafoam or Techroline every few fill ups
Obviously you should be knowledgeable of when your last tune-up was including - spark plugs (cheap but takes time to reaplece the rear ones), air cleaner, vent lines (very cheap should be replaced every 100K miles costs less than $20), EGR valve (do this when replacing rear plugs cost $7), oil changes for engine/trans/diffs.
My unsolicited advice - spray clean the engine very well, get it spotless then you start with a clean slate and can identify where leaks are coming from and how bad they are. At this point you have no idea if they were from overfilling or something else. Start with a slate.
Change out your power steering fluid and brake fluid then monitor them constantly. There are a lot of things under the car that can leak easy to get them all confused. If it is the power steering then try the above solution but KNOW before trying to fix stuff as so many here and everyplace else just start throwing cash at solutions before knowing that the problems are mechanicns and dealerships LOVE doing this at your expense.
Hope this helps
Lots of good advice above. I’ll mention a few other small things might add value.
1) Mpg needs to be hand-figure, not taken from the computer. You may be doing it that way, but just in case.
2) With the car lifted, spin each wheel and feel for a dragging/sticking brake caliper. Oten this just means teh sliding pins need cleaned. NOT a new caliper. Be careful being oversold.
3) After driving around town a big (stop and go), carefulyl feel each wheel hub. If one is dramatically hotter, that can be a bad wheel bearing and sucking down mpg w/o you knowing.
4) PS leak - before doing work on it, Put in clean fluid + a few ounces of Lubegard Red atf additive. This is NOT stop-leak which can cause issues later. It is an ester oil that will condition seals, reduce temps, and clean the system. Same basic chemistry as Red Line oils - this is not mouse milk, it works. Alternatively, they make a dedicated PSF that runs about $16/qt here in the US. Better option. Lubegard products are available in Australia, no problem finding them.
I had a steady enough leak in the ES, I bought a new PS return hose to install. I was waiting for the spring/summer to do it so as not to tie up a garage bay. I did add the Lubegard PS fluid to it. By spring when I was ready to do the job, the persistent/moderate leak was entirely gone. this was six/seven years ago and the hose is still hanging in the back of the garage on the wall, and the PS system has not leaked a drop in all that time. This is worth trying given the hassle of a PS pump/hose replacement. May not work for you, but given the $$/hassle, I would give it a shot.
5) Gas type - these cars can benefit from higher octane/non-ethanol. They will run better, more power, slightly better mileage. The trade-off in higher fuel cost is NOT $$ advantageous though, you pay more but don’t get THAT much better mpgs or HP. They do NOT run cleaner, etc. My basic pattern is to buy decent 87 gas at COSTCO or similar and live with it. Every ~3,500miles I run a bottle of Gumout Regane HM or TEchron through a tank (use either one, same chemistry and no functional difference, also same as Redline FI cleaner. All contain PEA additive/cleaner). This will keep the fuel system clean enough to deliver peak mpgs. I usually notice a *slight* bump in mpgs after a tank, and I settled on that interval after a lot of years of experimentation. Your gas quality/driving habits etc. may dictate it slightly differently.
If I go over the mountains (Eastern WA or toward Idaho, Montana), I buy REAL gas (non-ethanol) 91 or more. It’s widely available, a lot cheaper than here, and I can drive on more fun roads more aggressively and enjoy it a little bit. But daily, I do not bother at all.
1) Mpg needs to be hand-figure, not taken from the computer. You may be doing it that way, but just in case.
2) With the car lifted, spin each wheel and feel for a dragging/sticking brake caliper. Oten this just means teh sliding pins need cleaned. NOT a new caliper. Be careful being oversold.
3) After driving around town a big (stop and go), carefulyl feel each wheel hub. If one is dramatically hotter, that can be a bad wheel bearing and sucking down mpg w/o you knowing.
4) PS leak - before doing work on it, Put in clean fluid + a few ounces of Lubegard Red atf additive. This is NOT stop-leak which can cause issues later. It is an ester oil that will condition seals, reduce temps, and clean the system. Same basic chemistry as Red Line oils - this is not mouse milk, it works. Alternatively, they make a dedicated PSF that runs about $16/qt here in the US. Better option. Lubegard products are available in Australia, no problem finding them.
I had a steady enough leak in the ES, I bought a new PS return hose to install. I was waiting for the spring/summer to do it so as not to tie up a garage bay. I did add the Lubegard PS fluid to it. By spring when I was ready to do the job, the persistent/moderate leak was entirely gone. this was six/seven years ago and the hose is still hanging in the back of the garage on the wall, and the PS system has not leaked a drop in all that time. This is worth trying given the hassle of a PS pump/hose replacement. May not work for you, but given the $$/hassle, I would give it a shot.
5) Gas type - these cars can benefit from higher octane/non-ethanol. They will run better, more power, slightly better mileage. The trade-off in higher fuel cost is NOT $$ advantageous though, you pay more but don’t get THAT much better mpgs or HP. They do NOT run cleaner, etc. My basic pattern is to buy decent 87 gas at COSTCO or similar and live with it. Every ~3,500miles I run a bottle of Gumout Regane HM or TEchron through a tank (use either one, same chemistry and no functional difference, also same as Redline FI cleaner. All contain PEA additive/cleaner). This will keep the fuel system clean enough to deliver peak mpgs. I usually notice a *slight* bump in mpgs after a tank, and I settled on that interval after a lot of years of experimentation. Your gas quality/driving habits etc. may dictate it slightly differently.
If I go over the mountains (Eastern WA or toward Idaho, Montana), I buy REAL gas (non-ethanol) 91 or more. It’s widely available, a lot cheaper than here, and I can drive on more fun roads more aggressively and enjoy it a little bit. But daily, I do not bother at all.
Gas mileage, I just did a couple things that helped my newly pruchased car get far better mileage. I was averaging 20mpg now getting 24mpg on my RX330. You're in another continent so need to do the conversions but know it is a 20% improvement in my case..
This will cost almost nothing but require you to reset the windows, sunroof, and seat memories
#1 - disconnect battery - this will reset the EMC and it will need to relearn your driving habits doing this you'll need to reset the windows, sunroof, rear door, and seat memories
#2 - clean the throttle body - using a rag with brake cleaner wipe down the throttle body well it will have lot of dirt and soot on it - is your air cleaner new? Very cheap and easy to replace
#3 - clean the O2 sensors with brake or carb cleaner. Mine were easily accessible one from the top in front the other below front. Spray wtih carb cleaner, wipe down, reinstall
#4 - clean MAF - spray with with MAF cleaner careful not to touch the element with anything just spray it well and reinstall
#5 - make sure your tires are properly inflated. I prefer mine at 36 lbs which is above the factory recommendation
Reconnect battery
All of this takes maybe 2 hours
Using gas that is above the factory recomemndation does nothing positive for the engine, some think because it costs more it must be better but all studies have proven otherwise - here in the states 85 octane for the RX330 and RX350> uses min 91 octane is what Lexus calls for. Most all our pumps here in Boise, ID are 87 or 91 either work fine in my '04 RX330 no need to spend extra it doesn't add anything but additional expense and in no way is "better" quality... some people like to toss in a bottle of Seafoam or Techroline every few fill ups
Obviously you should be knowledgeable of when your last tune-up was including - spark plugs (cheap but takes time to reaplece the rear ones), air cleaner, vent lines (very cheap should be replaced every 100K miles costs less than $20), EGR valve (do this when replacing rear plugs cost $7), oil changes for engine/trans/diffs.
My unsolicited advice - spray clean the engine very well, get it spotless then you start with a clean slate and can identify where leaks are coming from and how bad they are. At this point you have no idea if they were from overfilling or something else. Start with a slate.
Change out your power steering fluid and brake fluid then monitor them constantly. There are a lot of things under the car that can leak easy to get them all confused. If it is the power steering then try the above solution but KNOW before trying to fix stuff as so many here and everyplace else just start throwing cash at solutions before knowing that the problems are mechanicns and dealerships LOVE doing this at your expense.
Hope this helps
This will cost almost nothing but require you to reset the windows, sunroof, and seat memories
#1 - disconnect battery - this will reset the EMC and it will need to relearn your driving habits doing this you'll need to reset the windows, sunroof, rear door, and seat memories
#2 - clean the throttle body - using a rag with brake cleaner wipe down the throttle body well it will have lot of dirt and soot on it - is your air cleaner new? Very cheap and easy to replace
#3 - clean the O2 sensors with brake or carb cleaner. Mine were easily accessible one from the top in front the other below front. Spray wtih carb cleaner, wipe down, reinstall
#4 - clean MAF - spray with with MAF cleaner careful not to touch the element with anything just spray it well and reinstall
#5 - make sure your tires are properly inflated. I prefer mine at 36 lbs which is above the factory recommendation
Reconnect battery
All of this takes maybe 2 hours
Using gas that is above the factory recomemndation does nothing positive for the engine, some think because it costs more it must be better but all studies have proven otherwise - here in the states 85 octane for the RX330 and RX350> uses min 91 octane is what Lexus calls for. Most all our pumps here in Boise, ID are 87 or 91 either work fine in my '04 RX330 no need to spend extra it doesn't add anything but additional expense and in no way is "better" quality... some people like to toss in a bottle of Seafoam or Techroline every few fill ups
Obviously you should be knowledgeable of when your last tune-up was including - spark plugs (cheap but takes time to reaplece the rear ones), air cleaner, vent lines (very cheap should be replaced every 100K miles costs less than $20), EGR valve (do this when replacing rear plugs cost $7), oil changes for engine/trans/diffs.
My unsolicited advice - spray clean the engine very well, get it spotless then you start with a clean slate and can identify where leaks are coming from and how bad they are. At this point you have no idea if they were from overfilling or something else. Start with a slate.
Change out your power steering fluid and brake fluid then monitor them constantly. There are a lot of things under the car that can leak easy to get them all confused. If it is the power steering then try the above solution but KNOW before trying to fix stuff as so many here and everyplace else just start throwing cash at solutions before knowing that the problems are mechanicns and dealerships LOVE doing this at your expense.
Hope this helps
I converted your mpg and it’s 9 litre for 100 km. On my Lexus dashboard it says 20 litre for 100 km. It’s absurd
As per the conversion I was getting below 8.5K/litre now averaging 10.2K/litre (from under 20 mpg now 24 mpg) if your car is reading 20 litres per 100km that equates to 11 3/4 mpg that's horrible something is seriously wrong you should be twice that mpg. I've driven with people who get 1/2 the usual MPG by either always being on the gas or on the brakes no inbetween or it could be issues with your car but something is clearly way off. To add salt in the wound I'm currently paying $2.94/gal which equates to .78/litre
As per the conversion I was getting below 8.5K/litre now averaging 10.2K/litre (from under 20 mpg now 24 mpg) if your car is reading 20 litres per 100km that equates to 11 3/4 mpg that's horrible something is seriously wrong you should be twice that mpg. I've driven with people who get 1/2 the usual MPG by either always being on the gas or on the brakes no inbetween or it could be issues with your car but something is clearly way off. To add salt in the wound I'm currently paying $2.94/gal which equates to .78/litre
yes. I know. I recently also got a OBD 2 scanner which measures fuel used and it shows me a total diff result at about 12-13 litres for 100 km almost 7-8 litre less.
so now I am not sure who to believe 🤣
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receiving such low mileage
Plugs, air filter, tire pressure, ect does help.....For your brakes= Do the gen3 upgrade, Pads,rotors & a pr of reman calipers for a gen 3 ('10-'15) is direct bolt on, which'll make a difference......
I have gone ahead and had done a fuel injector and a servicing on my car. The problem seem to have been drastically reduced. My mileage on highway atleast seems to drop to 8.1 km per 100 from 19 so I am very happy
I get almost 25mph on hwy 65 mph 2009 fwd.. forget town driving that sucks... getting back to your P/S leak, i had a rack boot leaking oil it was torn, not a lot but when pulling the other side rack boot it had oil in it.. Lucas stop leak.... suck all the oil out of the plastic container up top, fill with lucas.... few days later do the same thing until the lucas is all used... no more leaks.. But check under the P/S pump for oil these models have a problem with timing cover oil leak, mine leaks a little but not dripping on the ground.... At your miles the spark plugs will need replacing
in city traffic mileage drops off When the low fuel light comes on it will take 60L. In the city that will relate to high 400kms. on a trip it will be high 500kms On a trip i can get 8.6l/100km of the read out screen (.Always under 10L/100km with 3 people sitting on 110kms/hr on a trip) Driving in suburbs it will be 11.5L/100km on the screen
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