Ppppppppppppp

 

Key question is does it run good?

If I can use the term "good problem(s)" ... they would be hard fails ... which you trace and fix.
The "bad problems(s)" ... they would be intermittent fails .. which you keep chasing.

Please arm yourself with a full electrical wiring diagram.

Change of all fluids is a must. Then run for few days [not short runs but extended 1+hr drive] and then drain and fill again. If you have a rear diff that must be drained and filled.

Once you get past the electrical stuff, worry about molds and rust.

If you can't get the vehicle to run reliably, you can part it out.

Just out of curiosity ... if you were picking a salvaged/flooded vehicle, why did you opt for almost 20yr vehicle. The rewards factor is pretty low. A newer vehicle would have lot more upward potential.

Salim

 

Ppppppppppppppp

 

Like all post '96 vehicles the self test mode should light up the CEL when you move the key from off to "run" .. one step before start.

[step 1 &2 with the ignition key out]
1. In Park or Neutral. turn the main pulley [clockwise] by hand to make sure the engine is not seized up. You should feel compression stiffness in spurts.
2. With a fully charged battery, mechanic should be able to bridge the solenoid to make the starter spin [after confirming 1] and the engine turn. This should confirm if the starter needs replacement.

Now put the key in
3. Observe the lights but still proceed to start the vehicle. If the solenoid does not engage starter, momentarily bridge the solenoid

All the above has nothing to do with the ecu.

Once it cranks and not fire, then you trace spark (ecu-, immobilizer)

Personally I think you are putting the cart before the horse. ECU change entails lot of other issues and the first bridge to cross is to confirm that the engine runs. Just don't invest in a brand new OEM starter.

Again no guarantees are there even when you put in a certified good ecu.

Salim

 

Cut your loses and part it out. You will be chasing ghost the entire entire time you own it.

It didnt run, you arent a mechanic, but you bought it anyway? Dont you like your money?

 

Ppppppppppp

 

regrettably I dont have an answer for you. You need to go in steps till tings start running and then the ecu will come in picture. Other than imobilizer, lot of functions go into default or safe mode depending on the sensor inputs and operation of the ECU.

You can get ecus but then you get into keys issues and a working ECU is yet not guaranteed to work in the vehicle which may have electrical issues all over.

I would say go with your gut.

Salim

 

What's the status of your RX now?? What's your decisions for it.

 

If that is what i think it is, evaporated salt on the instrument cluster the electronics are destroyed, IMHO part the vehicle out.

 

Thanks guys

I’ll post an update soon