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The only issue that I see with using another ECU is the VIN number is also stored with the ECU. The car will now have the wrong VIN number and some state might have an issue with it when you take it in for emission testing. I believe that replacing the IC 900 chip with a virgin chip is the way to go. The chip that you supplied is it Microwire eeprom 9356?
I have not seen any vin info written to any ecu from 1998-2002. I have replaced the ecu in my LX470 with 4 different ecus while experimenting and never have seen any vin info. i have seen vin info written to ecus for vehicles after 2002
Yes, the chips i have been giving away are 93c56 eeprom.
yes, once done, keys registered fine. Now I get to program the remotes for door locks
Awesome! Im glad it worked for you. I have mailed out quite a few of the chips and have only heard back from a couple of people who have installed them. I think most of them are afraid to do the swap. Doing the programming for the fobs can be aggravating if the actuators are weak.
I have been instructed to look up your threads concerning new ECU's. I may be headed that way. My keys are not working to start my 01 rx300 awd.
From what I am reading it looks like I may go with your idea. Are you still giving away chips? I promise to write about the results. This forum is keeping the ole girl moving.
I have been instructed to look up your threads concerning new ECU's. I may be headed that way. My keys are not working to start my 01 rx300 awd.
From what I am reading it looks like I may go with your idea. Are you still giving away chips? I promise to write about the results. This forum is keeping the ole girl moving.
Sure, I've been needing to burn a few chips. Just send me a message with an address to mail it to and I will get one sent out.
Sure, I've been needing to burn a few chips. Just send me a message with an address to mail it to and I will get one sent out.
New to posting so I hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but I have an 03 RX300 and had a question or two if you didn't mind.
Okay 1st order of business is giving you all the events and nfo to date.
I accidentally cooked my old ECU while replacing the fuel pump. Anyway when I purchased the supposedly "plug n play" from FS1, it did not start. Immobilizer was activated.
I then sent it back to the guys at at FS1 with my old ECU and I was nailed another $80 for cloning service. (come to find out they stole the chip from my old ECU and installed it onto the PCB on the one they sold me)
It started and ran a couple of weeks until my son left the interior light on. The vehicles battery went dead and then after installing a new one, it would not start again. Seems like an awful coincidence as my key fob will unlock my vehicle at well over 100 ft but not start it. Possible the key was on its last leg, I suppose. Anyway, as per the video I found on another thread concerning flashing, I have obtained the zener diodes resistors and have the Pony Prog app he used along with an old PC that has a serial port, and the pigtail ready to be made with a length of Cat5e, Scotch locks, shrink tubing, and a female serial connector. My question is one of frequency/chip compatibility of the keys I bought and weather they are the correct specs and will work once the IC900 eprom is flashed/virginized, and the ECU is in "Learn or Auto Registering" mode.
The keys I bought specs are as follows:
FCC ID N14TMTX-1 Frequency 312MHz
Chip C.
I've seen other aftermarket keys that spec'd out at 315MHz as the frequency, and others at 313MHz with no chip type listed.
Are the keys I bought the correct specs? The reason why I ask is because on another thread you are not only sending chips out to some fellas, and though I can't find the particular thread at this moment there was some mention of the sort of beveled rectangular black block inside the key fob and compatibility issues others had and your solution provided thereof. I was curious as to the function of that block. Thanks a Million.
remote [lock/unlock, roll windows and panic] are different function from imobilizer. The transmitter for remote communicates with the receiver [rear quarter panel are of the RX] and transmit frequency of the sender and receiver should match. I am not sure how many bands the RX remote has.
immobilizer has a magnetic slug in the base of the black box inside the key shell. This is passive [does not require battery] but has a unique magnetic field. The receiver near the ignition key set picks the field and relays it to the ECU. Ecu matches the signature to stored value and enables spark. If the signature is identified as Master [authentication], then the ECU will allow new signature to be stored.
If you procure a new ECU, it will have valet and Master key signatures stored in its EEPROM. So always get a master key at minimum when ever you pick an ECU. Acquiring matching cylinders would be a prudent along with 2nd master and a valet. Otherwise you will be in the same boat as others who have lost their master keys.
remote [lock/unlock, roll windows and panic] are different function from imobilizer. The transmitter for remote communicates with the receiver [rear quarter panel are of the RX] and transmit frequency of the sender and receiver should match. I am not sure how many bands the RX remote has.
immobilizer has a magnetic slug in the base of the black box inside the key shell. This is passive [does not require battery] but has a unique magnetic field. The receiver near the ignition key set picks the field and relays it to the ECU. Ecu matches the signature to stored value and enables spark. If the signature is identified as Master [authentication], then the ECU will allow new signature to be stored.
If you procure a new ECU, it will have valet and Master key signatures stored in its EEPROM. So always get a master key at minimum when ever you pick an ECU. Acquiring matching cylinders would be a prudent along with 2nd master and a valet. Otherwise you will be in the same boat as others who have lost their master keys.
Salim
I bought the vehicle and it had only one key. I don't believe it is a master key, but cannot be certain., The LED on the FOB was getting kind of dim so I figured it needed a Batt. tested the battery w my VOM and it was up to spec but I changed it anyway..
I believe I get it, or most of it, the transponder ring grabs the slugs "Unique magnetic field". amplifies it, then delivers a signal to ECU for the correct magnetic field from the slug? My questions then are these.
Let's say I installed a brand new chip by the same manufacturer,
Does Installing a brand new chip by the same manufacturer, yield the same results as flashing an existing EPROM?
(ie; using PonyProg, Techstream etc.) ?
Finally I saw the video where the man mad his own pigtail using a breadboard and directly soldering to the chip leads rather than using the "CLIP" that is sold. In the video he zero's out everything for the exception of a couple entries.
Is it correct that New or flashed IC's require the writing of these default (I think??) values and the ECU should then be in Auto registering or Learn mode expecting new keys in the ignition cylinder once installed and Batt connected? Does the slug from the old keys become replaced by the magnetic signature of slug in the new keys in this situation. Thank you VERY MUCH I really appreciate the lightning fast response and all of the hard work you and the other members put into this invaluable resource. : ) Regards, Chris
I bought the vehicle and it had only one key. I don't believe it is a master key, but cannot be certain., The LED on the FOB was getting kind of dim so I figured it needed a Batt. tested the battery w my VOM and it was up to spec but I changed it anyway..
I believe I get it, or most of it, the transponder ring grabs the slugs "Unique magnetic field". amplifies it, then delivers a signal to ECU for the correct magnetic field from the slug? My questions then are these.
Let's say I installed a brand new chip by the same manufacturer,
Does Installing a brand new chip by the same manufacturer, yield the same results as flashing an existing EPROM?
(ie; using PonyProg, Techstream etc.) ?
Finally I saw the video where the man mad his own pigtail using a breadboard and directly soldering to the chip leads rather than using the "CLIP" that is sold. In the video he zero's out everything for the exception of a couple entries.
Is it correct that New or flashed IC's require the writing of these default (I think??) values and the ECU should then be in Auto registering or Learn mode expecting new keys in the ignition cylinder once installed and Batt connected? Does the slug from the old keys become replaced by the magnetic signature of slug in the new keys in this situation. Thank you VERY MUCH I really appreciate the lightning fast response and all of the hard work you and the other members put into this invaluable resource. : ) Regards, Chris
Some of the terms are still causing confusion. Keep in mind the information I have is limited knowledge and mostly limited to "how the system works in its intended form" . What folks do to circumvent/bypass is not within my information bank. [No comment on the video you mention]
nit: Voltmeter is not the best instrument to check a battery ever as it is intended not to draw any current. Since batteries are ideally intended to deliver all the current the circuit draws while maintaining the voltage, a load test is the right way. For many of us it is cheapest to just buy a new battery and observe a strong LED glow.
Each slug [I will not call it a chip so that it does not cause confusion in terminology] has a unique signature .. no two are alike.
Programming the ECU: Requires Master key (like a password) to enable storing new signature. Folks may have the means to wipe it clean and enable new signature capture. How a new signature is captured is for the vender to provide the process. From my vantage point, I would send them the new slug [encapsulated in the black-box of the remote] and ask them to make it a master Key].
With a master key, any owner can register new slug.
Some of the terms are still causing confusion. Keep in mind the information I have is limited knowledge and mostly limited to "how the system works in its intended form" . What folks do to circumvent/bypass is not within my information bank. [No comment on the video you mention]
nit: Voltmeter is not the best instrument to check a battery ever as it is intended not to draw any current. Since batteries are ideally intended to deliver all the current the circuit draws while maintaining the voltage, a load test is the right way. For many of us it is cheapest to just buy a new battery and observe a strong LED glow.
Each slug [I will not call it a chip so that it does not cause confusion in terminology] has a unique signature .. no two are alike.
Programming the ECU: Requires Master key (like a password) to enable storing new signature. Folks may have the means to wipe it clean and enable new signature capture. How a new signature is captured is for the vender to provide the process. From my vantage point, I would send them the new slug [encapsulated in the black-box of the remote] and ask them to make it a master Key].
With a master key, any owner can register new slug.
Salim
I understand completely, and thank you for the clarification. It appears that if one doesn't have a spare 500 laying around, that as an owner, some circumvention may be order. I appreciate it.
@Axeman do you have access to Techstream? You can check registered keys with it.
To flash the ecu you need to write the auto registration code to the chip. Once the chip has been "virginized" you add 3 keys just by inserting them into the ignition switch.
I have not had any luck writing to the eeprom when ot is soldered to the board, I remove them to write to them.
@Axeman do you have access to Techstream? You can check registered keys with it.
To flash the ecu you need to write the auto registration code to the chip. Once the chip has been "virginized" you add 3 keys just by inserting them into the ignition switch.
I have not had any luck writing to the eeprom when ot is soldered to the board, I remove them to write to them.
Roger that Mauser. I did find and downloaded PonyProg, and I do have Techsteam, but it wants a code to unlock the software. PonyProg is the app used on a video posted. I also have acquired an old XP PC with a Serial port, have all the zener diodes and resistors to make the jig shown in the video and rather than a bread board, I'll be building it as per the schematic with a length of CAT5, a few scotch locks, of course some solder, then dress it up nicely with some shrink wrap. Just waiting for a female serial port connector to plug it into the PC.
I was concerned whether the aftermarket keys I purchased will work with all functionality once the IC os is flashed.
Question: I found the exact IC w the same brand as the OEM. Given the age of the vehicle (and all the electronic components) do you feel it would it be better to just get a new IC? And if so, is any programming needed on a new one, or does a new one need to have some default data programmed into it? Ie; VIN number info etc. Thank you kindly good sir!
Roger that Mauser. I did find and downloaded PonyProg, and I do have Techsteam, but it wants a code to unlock the software. PonyProg is the app used on a video posted. I also have acquired an old XP PC with a Serial port, have all the zener diodes and resistors to make the jig shown in the video and rather than a bread board, I'll be building it as per the schematic with a length of CAT5, a few scotch locks, of course some solder, then dress it up nicely with some shrink wrap. Just waiting for a female serial port connector to plug it into the PC.
I was concerned whether the aftermarket keys I purchased will work with all functionality once the IC os is flashed.
Question: I found the exact IC w the same brand as the OEM. Given the age of the vehicle (and all the electronic components) do you feel it would it be better to just get a new IC? And if so, is any programming needed on a new one, or does a new one need to have some default data programmed into it? Ie; VIN number info etc. Thank you kindly good sir!
You say "it wants a code to unlock the software". Is that to unlock Techstream, or do you need a passcode. If you are able to reset the immobilizer using Techstream, that is the way to go. 2003 might have that ability.
The only things I have found that will kill the eeprom is heat, installing upside down, or putting them into the microwave. I really wouldn't worry about a new one unless you want it.
If you are able to use Techstream to reset the immobilizer then virginizing the eeprom in the main ecu won't help, there is also a separate immo ecu that has to match.
I am not real good at explanations, but will do my best to answer questions.
You say "it wants a code to unlock the software". Is that to unlock Techstream, or do you need a passcode. If you are able to reset the immobilizer using Techstream, that is the way to go. 2003 might have that ability.
The only things I have found that will kill the eeprom is heat, installing upside down, or putting them into the microwave. I really wouldn't worry about a new one unless you want it.
If you are able to use Techstream to reset the immobilizer then virginizing the eeprom in the main ecu won't help, there is also a separate immo ecu that has to match.
I am not real good at explanations, but will do my best to answer questions.
Techstream is asking for dealership info, so I don't know what is going on with that at this point. And you're right about heat. I was practicing on my old ECU that this one replaced and it came off okay but a pin broke off. Are you stating that there's something other than writing the hex entries into the eprom which then puts the ECU in Auto registering or learn mode looking for new keys? As far as what I've learned in cyberspace there's a couple hits that stated the immobilizer could be reset using a paperclip jumping a couple of pins on the OBD Port. Inspite of my ignorance I find many conflicting info. 2004 is when they started having a separate immobilizer behind the dash is that right? 2003 immobilizer made in Japan RX300 I thought was inside the ECU. At any rate I was hoping just to be able to virginize the chip And she'd be aching for keys!
"The torture never stops " FZ Serial port eprom programming jig DYI Using CAT5 and a female serial port connector. Wired As per the schematic using a three- zener diodes and three resistors. I was working off of video where a guy used a breadboard to do the sane thing. I figured since I didn't have one I'd make a jig that plugs into the serial port. Get her all buttoned up and Shrink wrapped I used the four solid colors of the Cat 5 for Pins one through four on the eeprom chip to avoid confusion. Same with a four line telephone, it goes Line 1 blue, then #2 orange, green and brown respectively. For the ground, I used a pair for redundancy, Wht/Grn & Wht/Blue the other two are not terminated. After I get the diodes and resistors in, I'll post the finished jig. (The ither end can either be soldered directly to the chip, but I'm looking for a chip socket that I can solder to avoid heat on the IC
Last edited by Axeman; 02-08-23 at 08:55 PM.
Reason: Typo
Techstream is asking for dealership info, so I don't know what is going on with that at this point. And you're right about heat. I was practicing on my old ECU that this one replaced and it came off okay but a pin broke off. Are you stating that there's something other than writing the hex entries into the eprom which then puts the ECU in Auto registering or learn mode looking for new keys? As far as what I've learned in cyberspace there's a couple hits that stated the immobilizer could be reset using a paperclip jumping a couple of pins on the OBD Port. Inspite of my ignorance I find many conflicting info. 2004 is when they started having a separate immobilizer behind the dash is that right? 2003 immobilizer made in Japan RX300 I thought was inside the ECU. At any rate I was hoping just to be able to virginize the chip And she'd be aching for keys!
"The torture never stops " FZ Serial port eprom programming jig DYI Using CAT5 and a female serial port connector. Wired As per the schematic using a three- zener diodes and three resistors. I was working off of video where a guy used a breadboard to do the sane thing. I figured since I didn't have one I'd make a jig that plugs into the serial port. Get her all buttoned up and Shrink wrapped I used the four solid colors of the Cat 5 for Pins one through four on the eeprom chip to avoid confusion. Same with a four line telephone, it goes Line 1 blue, then #2 orange, green and brown respectively. For the ground, I used a pair for redundancy, Wht/Grn & Wht/Blue the other two are not terminated. After I get the diodes and resistors in, I'll post the finished jig. (The ither end can either be soldered directly to the chip, but I'm looking for a chip socket that I can solder to avoid heat on the IC
I can help with a passcode if you want to try it. I am not sure when the immo system was changed on the RX. The LX went to onboad programming in 2002. I know that the 2002 RX is not programmable onboard.
Do you have the hex code to write to put it into auto reg mode?
01-13-19, 07:34 AM
