VVT Failure?
06-20-18, 04:24 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
VVT Failure?
02' 270k AWD
i'm getting back on the highway during a long cross country trip and I accelerate enough to downshift to second to about 5000 RPM burning oil out of the tailpipe and she starts to shudder and the check engine light is flashing. During normal load, everything feels fine but while accelerating the engine shutters and the check engine light is flashing during that time. I'm thinking something with the variable valve timing system has failed. I will read the codes tomorrow, but has anyone else had these symptoms???
i'm getting back on the highway during a long cross country trip and I accelerate enough to downshift to second to about 5000 RPM burning oil out of the tailpipe and she starts to shudder and the check engine light is flashing. During normal load, everything feels fine but while accelerating the engine shutters and the check engine light is flashing during that time. I'm thinking something with the variable valve timing system has failed. I will read the codes tomorrow, but has anyone else had these symptoms???
06-20-18, 05:05 PM
#2
Pole Position
Need codes, however there are little screens in the VVT Valves that can clog and caused this issue. Also the FFT valves may be failing. They can also be the culprit not allowing proper cam shaft timing.
06-21-18, 10:47 AM
#6
You have two VVT solenoid filters. If they were never cleaned, they ARE dirty at that mileage. They are rather very easy to get to. Both are on the transmission engine side. Takes some hand wiggling but not bad. Be advised that their bases are made out of some very brittle plastic that, at this mileage, is easy to snap. Filter comes out with that base. So be very careful with them. Any brake cleaner will do to clean them. Maybe even take solenoid sout and spray clean them.
Now, you are burning oil. Keep in mind, VVT operates off proper oil pressure. If you have poor oil pressure and supply to VVT, then here ya go.
Now, you are burning oil. Keep in mind, VVT operates off proper oil pressure. If you have poor oil pressure and supply to VVT, then here ya go.
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06-21-18, 12:07 PM
#8
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for your replies. The codes I am getting are for multiple cylinder misfire’s. I talked to my mechanic who is familiar with the car, and he said it’s probably not the variable valve timing system. He said to check my plugs and perhaps the coil packs, and at that mileage I might have a potential intake manifold leak. So lots of fun things to check on the car. Did a little digging on YouTube and I did come across those Oil screens for the VVT system. Thank you for that. I’ll see what I come up with. Thanksand oh by the way I drove the car today and just seems fine. I did not get the engine as hot as it was when this problem first appeared however. I’ll have to take it on a nice long highway drive and see if it reappears. I’ll post my experiences along the way. Thanks again.
06-22-18, 07:09 AM
#10
Intermediate
Thread Starter
So here are the codes I read yesterday:
The evaporation system has a slow leak so I knew about that one already.
P0171 bank 1 system too lean
P0440 evap emission system
P0446 evap vent control circuit
P0300 multiple misfire
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected
The evaporation system has a slow leak so I knew about that one already.
P0171 bank 1 system too lean
P0440 evap emission system
P0446 evap vent control circuit
P0300 multiple misfire
P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected
P0302 cylinder 2 misfire detected
P0304 cylinder 4 misfire detected
06-22-18, 01:11 PM
#11
P0171 points at your O2 sensor.
Misfire codes are your spark plugs and coil packs. I'd say, as they are around $70 new at parts store - coil packs - do them same time. Otherwise, you have to move coil pack from cylinder to cylinder to determine, if it were plug or coil pack cause and on bank 1 head it's a total PITA to do. While you are THERE, just do it all. Not worth doing over.
Misfire codes are your spark plugs and coil packs. I'd say, as they are around $70 new at parts store - coil packs - do them same time. Otherwise, you have to move coil pack from cylinder to cylinder to determine, if it were plug or coil pack cause and on bank 1 head it's a total PITA to do. While you are THERE, just do it all. Not worth doing over.
06-22-18, 06:35 PM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
P0171 points at your O2 sensor.
Misfire codes are your spark plugs and coil packs. I'd say, as they are around $70 new at parts store - coil packs - do them same time. Otherwise, you have to move coil pack from cylinder to cylinder to determine, if it were plug or coil pack cause and on bank 1 head it's a total PITA to do. While you are THERE, just do it all. Not worth doing over.
Misfire codes are your spark plugs and coil packs. I'd say, as they are around $70 new at parts store - coil packs - do them same time. Otherwise, you have to move coil pack from cylinder to cylinder to determine, if it were plug or coil pack cause and on bank 1 head it's a total PITA to do. While you are THERE, just do it all. Not worth doing over.
06-23-18, 10:01 AM
#13
I found when changing the rear coils/plugs without removing the intake manifold, the toughest part was unplugging the coils. Especially #3 in the middle.
You can also use Denso Iridium Plugs SK20R11 as OEM. NGK makes an iridium OEM plug as well.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...park-plug.html
You can also use Denso Iridium Plugs SK20R11 as OEM. NGK makes an iridium OEM plug as well.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...park-plug.html
06-23-18, 04:23 PM
#14
Lexus Test Driver
Lexmus is correct! That middle rear plug is a bear! I recall using a combination of ratchet wrench extenders to get at it. If I used a regular spark plug wrench with a rubber insert to seat the new plug, I couldn't get the socket off the plug. The rubber insert gripped the plug too tightly. It was great for removing the old plug, though!
06-23-18, 06:16 PM
#15
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Lexmus is correct! That middle rear plug is a bear! I recall using a combination of ratchet wrench extenders to get at it. If I used a regular spark plug wrench with a rubber insert to seat the new plug, I couldn't get the socket off the plug. The rubber insert gripped the plug too tightly. It was great for removing the old plug, though!