ABS is solid on
Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 324
From: nj
See this post:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post6890808
While the trouble code list looks good I don't know if the procedure is.
The diagnostic manual says "To access the diagnostic codes"
Open DLC1
Disconnect the short pin (bottom right)
Junper Tc and E1
Turn the ignition switch on and count the ABS light pulses.
When there has been a malfunction the pattern will be 4 seconds pause, then first digit begins. Number of times lamp blinks before a 1.5 second pause is the first digit. Then second digit.
If there is more than one code the lowest code number will be first, then a 2.5 second pause, then next code number.
To clear the abs codes:
open DLC1
remove short pin
jumper Tc and E1
turn key on
hit brake pedal 8+ times in 3 seconds
Don't forget to put the short pin back when you are done.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ml#post6890808
While the trouble code list looks good I don't know if the procedure is.
The diagnostic manual says "To access the diagnostic codes"
Open DLC1
Disconnect the short pin (bottom right)
Junper Tc and E1
Turn the ignition switch on and count the ABS light pulses.
When there has been a malfunction the pattern will be 4 seconds pause, then first digit begins. Number of times lamp blinks before a 1.5 second pause is the first digit. Then second digit.
If there is more than one code the lowest code number will be first, then a 2.5 second pause, then next code number.
To clear the abs codes:
open DLC1
remove short pin
jumper Tc and E1
turn key on
hit brake pedal 8+ times in 3 seconds
Don't forget to put the short pin back when you are done.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Florida
99 es300 abs light on
I tried to jumper the tc and e1 on the round diagnostic module under the dash and when I turn the ignition on, the cruise and airbag lights flash but the abs light stays solid. Tapping the brake pedal multiple times does nothing. Any help appreciated.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,559
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
under the hood it is DLC1 rectangular box. TC-E1
If you use DLC2, the round one near the shin area of the driver TC-E
Look for flashing ABS OR flashing TRACK OFF when you turn the ignition to on/run
Count flashing two digit sequence flash-flash pause flash long pause repeat [21]
If there are more than one code then the long pause will be followed by the next error flashes.
To clear disconnect the battery or pump the brake 8 times or more within 5 sec with the above jumper in place.
Remember to remove the jumper before starting the RX
I have few more code description than the list in the thread mentioned my MaxSteel.
I get code 43 when it gets hot. In winter, there is no problem. Also I have the Traction control option in '99 model. That requires a unique pump, which is not readily available. 4454048020 (most likely)
Salim
If you use DLC2, the round one near the shin area of the driver TC-E
Look for flashing ABS OR flashing TRACK OFF when you turn the ignition to on/run
Count flashing two digit sequence flash-flash pause flash long pause repeat [21]
If there are more than one code then the long pause will be followed by the next error flashes.
To clear disconnect the battery or pump the brake 8 times or more within 5 sec with the above jumper in place.
Remember to remove the jumper before starting the RX
I have few more code description than the list in the thread mentioned my MaxSteel.
I get code 43 when it gets hot. In winter, there is no problem. Also I have the Traction control option in '99 model. That requires a unique pump, which is not readily available. 4454048020 (most likely)
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Jun 18, 2016 at 03:07 PM.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,559
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
Late update:
My ABS codes were due to bad alternator. Battery died and overladed the alternator leading to demise of a couple of diodes. Once I replaced the diodes the dc voltage n=became stable. With the few diodes gone there were gaps in the charging cycle, which sent spikes down the +12v line and into the ABS computer module.
I wasted many hours chasing a ghost.
Salim
My ABS codes were due to bad alternator. Battery died and overladed the alternator leading to demise of a couple of diodes. Once I replaced the diodes the dc voltage n=became stable. With the few diodes gone there were gaps in the charging cycle, which sent spikes down the +12v line and into the ABS computer module.
I wasted many hours chasing a ghost.
Salim
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
Curious of this was my issue, battery blew up and then I started having issues.
Late update:
My ABS codes were due to bad alternator. Battery died and overladed the alternator leading to demise of a couple of diodes. Once I replaced the diodes the dc voltage n=became stable. With the few diodes gone there were gaps in the charging cycle, which sent spikes down the +12v line and into the ABS computer module.
I wasted many hours chasing a ghost.
Salim
My ABS codes were due to bad alternator. Battery died and overladed the alternator leading to demise of a couple of diodes. Once I replaced the diodes the dc voltage n=became stable. With the few diodes gone there were gaps in the charging cycle, which sent spikes down the +12v line and into the ABS computer module.
I wasted many hours chasing a ghost.
Salim
Battery & abs lights came on and car died about 30mins later. Replaced alternator, battery light went off. Went to head home, same thing, lights came on. I smelt something different than any fluid I've smelt or plastic melting, made it home, saw smoke, popped the hood and one of the battery caps had blown off and blew battery acid everywhere. On the battery terminal leads, I had to clean what I could and what I couldn't, I replaced with the same gauge wire. I checked the battery, even though it says it's good n it could be having a cell go bad. Checked alt. it's good. Only issue is if I give it more throttle at idle, my battery tester goes over 16v-17.48v & it says "high voltage, turn engine off". I've got some sort of electrical issue going on and it's got me thinking it wasn't from the battery acid but from the battery itself or ecu throwing too much to & from the alternator? I've had a parasitic draw but thought it was just from the blend door actuator going off randomly when the car isn't running. But now I'm starting to think it's something else causing battery to drain but it's not done it in the last couple of days. I'm all ears if someone has a starting point
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Racer
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 1,298
Likes: 324
From: nj
Battery & abs lights came on and car died about 30mins later. Replaced alternator, battery light went off. Went to head home, same thing, lights came on. I smelt something different than any fluid I've smelt or plastic melting, made it home, saw smoke, popped the hood and one of the battery caps had blown off and blew battery acid everywhere. On the battery terminal leads, I had to clean what I could and what I couldn't, I replaced with the same gauge wire. I checked the battery, even though it says it's good n it could be having a cell go bad. Checked alt. it's good. Only issue is if I give it more throttle at idle, my battery tester goes over 16v-17.48v & it says "high voltage, turn engine off". I've got some sort of electrical issue going on and it's got me thinking it wasn't from the battery acid but from the battery itself or ecu throwing too much to & from the alternator? I've had a parasitic draw but thought it was just from the blend door actuator going off randomly when the car isn't running. But now I'm starting to think it's something else causing battery to drain but it's not done it in the last couple of days. I'm all ears if someone has a starting point
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Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,559
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
I followed up in another thread, but my ABS problem went away after I replaced the diode pack in the alternator. I had couple of diodes that were open, causing dead phases and ripple on the output. The troubleshooting guide for ABS clearly states to verify the voltage is good.
If you still have the original alternator, servicing it is fairly easy. I replaced the brushes, diodes and the voltage controller. Bearings were good and slip rings needed fine emry paper touch. I was expecting heavy soldering, but every thing is screwed down in place.
Salim
If you still have the original alternator, servicing it is fairly easy. I replaced the brushes, diodes and the voltage controller. Bearings were good and slip rings needed fine emry paper touch. I was expecting heavy soldering, but every thing is screwed down in place.
Salim
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 44
Likes: 1
From: Tennessee
I'll take my original alternator apart and see what I find. Did you buy the factory brush kit, etc online or at a local alternator repair shop? Also I should have mentioned the ABS light only comes on when the engine is driven or revved to 2500rpms.
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,559
Likes: 1,385
From: Austin, TX
I ordered the parts through Bell Lexus (Arizona?), an on line retailer.
I do my own repairs and can not afford testing parts from unknown manufacturer and retailer. I save on the labor and spend extra on parts. I alway check with local Lexus dealer to establish a base point on cost [no shipping cost]. Lot of folks may disagree with my approach, but I have never had any issue due to fit or non-working part.
Salim
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