Clunking after brake job
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
Clunking after brake job
I just replaced all 4 rotors and pads on our 2003 RX300 with Duralast Gold C+ (some Autozone Ceramic pads) and Duralast rotors. I got everything changed and then went for a test drive, during which I found a clunking noise coming from the RIGHT FRONT wheel. I thought it was a loose caliper, so I took the wheel off, made sure that the caliper pins were cleaned and greased and reassembled everything. NO change in the noise coming from the right front, and my wife's car was NOT making this noise prior to the brake job.
My next plan was to take both front wheels off again and swap the pads to see if it fixed it or if the noise changed sides.
Any ideas from the brain trust?
Thanks,
Jason
My next plan was to take both front wheels off again and swap the pads to see if it fixed it or if the noise changed sides.
Any ideas from the brain trust?
Thanks,
Jason
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
I thought it was the RIGHT FRONT so I had my wife sit in the passenger seat while I drove around the neighborhood...she's "pretty sure" it was the right front. Long story short, I'm 99% sure it's the right FRONT
(the caps aren't for yelling, I just got in the habit of capitalizing words that changed management)
(the caps aren't for yelling, I just got in the habit of capitalizing words that changed management)
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
Update: I took off both front wheels, lubed everything up and swapped the brake pads (FR and FL). I tightened all the caliper bolts and torqued the lug nuts to 76lbs (star pattern).
So it's not the pads... dumb idea, but I wanted to see if the noise would switch sides.
The clunking under moderate braking is still there (I retried in reverse and it's also there). So I'm kind of at a loss...
I'm no automotive master mind but I'm thinking it's:
1) A stuck piston (front RIGHT), however, when I took it off the piston was out as much, or nearly as much as the front LEFT (which was not much do to the brand new pads).
2) Loose brake pad slots (metal housings that the pads sit in...I brushed them and greased them, but didn't use much grease in fear that it would end up on the rotors).
3) Possible warped rotor from Autozone - I'll rotate the swap the front two rotors in the morning
So it's not the pads... dumb idea, but I wanted to see if the noise would switch sides.
The clunking under moderate braking is still there (I retried in reverse and it's also there). So I'm kind of at a loss...
I'm no automotive master mind but I'm thinking it's:
1) A stuck piston (front RIGHT), however, when I took it off the piston was out as much, or nearly as much as the front LEFT (which was not much do to the brand new pads).
2) Loose brake pad slots (metal housings that the pads sit in...I brushed them and greased them, but didn't use much grease in fear that it would end up on the rotors).
3) Possible warped rotor from Autozone - I'll rotate the swap the front two rotors in the morning
Last edited by alaskaty; Jun 12, 2014 at 04:51 PM.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
UPDATE:
From the initial clunking/binding (no metallic screeching) sound I have swapped (from the FRONT RIGHT to the FRONT LEFT) the new pads, new rotors, portion of the caliper that holds the pads, and the wheels/tires.
The clunking/binding continues to come from the FRONT RIGHT.
The only part that wasn't swapped out was the hub and main caliper/piston portion. Because the sound ONLY occurs during moderate braking, I'd have to assume it's the caliper/piston that's gone south (despite the fact that it appears fine and the piston has moved out each time I dig back into these damn brakes).
From the initial clunking/binding (no metallic screeching) sound I have swapped (from the FRONT RIGHT to the FRONT LEFT) the new pads, new rotors, portion of the caliper that holds the pads, and the wheels/tires.
The clunking/binding continues to come from the FRONT RIGHT.
The only part that wasn't swapped out was the hub and main caliper/piston portion. Because the sound ONLY occurs during moderate braking, I'd have to assume it's the caliper/piston that's gone south (despite the fact that it appears fine and the piston has moved out each time I dig back into these damn brakes).
ClubLexus Stories
Celebrating Lexus & Toyota from Around the Globe
Top 10 Most Confusing Things Lexus Has Ever Done!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Lexus ES Review: Lexus Re-Embraces Founding Principles
Michael S. Palmer
10 Lexus Bargains That are Cheaper Than a New Toyota RAV4
Joe Kucinski
8 Weirdest Things Lexus Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
10 Lexus Designs That Have Aged Like Fine Wine
Verdad Gallardo
8 Tips for Improving Your Hybrid or Plug-in Hybrid's Efficiency!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Best Lexus Models No One Remembers
Joe Kucinski
TRD Off-Road Premium: Best 2026 4Runner, Except This One Thing
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Lexus & Toyotas to Drive Before You Die!
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
I took the RX into a Lexus/Toyota shop (not the dealership) and the guy took it for a test drive and said I must have gotten some grease on the pads or rotors.
I told him I swapped the pads and rotors R -> L, but the sound stayed on the right, and he still thought that's what happened.
I tried to be mindful when changing the brakes not to get grease on the rotors or pads, but I suppose it's possible that grease from a glove or from the metallic slides the pads sit in got transferred to the pads/rotors.
The car stops just fine, but still makes the clunking/binding sound (only under moderate braking). He said I should get new pads and rotors, but if I wanted I could try sanding the pads with 200 grit paper and getting the rotors machined.
I told him I swapped the pads and rotors R -> L, but the sound stayed on the right, and he still thought that's what happened.
I tried to be mindful when changing the brakes not to get grease on the rotors or pads, but I suppose it's possible that grease from a glove or from the metallic slides the pads sit in got transferred to the pads/rotors.
The car stops just fine, but still makes the clunking/binding sound (only under moderate braking). He said I should get new pads and rotors, but if I wanted I could try sanding the pads with 200 grit paper and getting the rotors machined.
Pit Crew
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 170
Likes: 20
From: FL
I had the same thing happen with a set of the same exact pads.
The sound was the pad "skipping" over the rotor instead of grabbing smoothly. It would grab and lose grip then grab and lose grip...ect (all happening VERY fast)
I bought Akebono pads (OEM) from Rockauto and my problem was sole forever.
Never again will I buy those pads again for any vehicle.
The sound was the pad "skipping" over the rotor instead of grabbing smoothly. It would grab and lose grip then grab and lose grip...ect (all happening VERY fast)
I bought Akebono pads (OEM) from Rockauto and my problem was sole forever.
Never again will I buy those pads again for any vehicle.
Lexus Test Driver
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 5,724
Likes: 114
From: NJ
I should mention that in the past I've had Duralast Gold C-Max pads on the front with Duralast Gold rear pads on my RX with Duralast rotors. I didn't really like them, dust wasn't an issue though. The pads always deposited material onto the rotor causing a "warped" rotor sensation. Had them replaced under warranty for free though and used the second pair till they were worn as well. So not a terrible option, but I'm loving the Akebono pads & napa rotors setup I have now.
Driver
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 106
Likes: 2
From: NY
I would suggest you check the temperature coming off the rotors after this noise happens. It could be that the caliper piston is stuck and either doing more work (or less) than the others.
Some other thoughts, have someone check the rotor for warpage with the appropriate tool. I forget what the acceptable tolerance is, but it might be causing the noise. Make sure the shims are on the back of the pads or you'll get a chattering noise. If one of the caliper clips is missing, this may also make noise.
Some other thoughts, have someone check the rotor for warpage with the appropriate tool. I forget what the acceptable tolerance is, but it might be causing the noise. Make sure the shims are on the back of the pads or you'll get a chattering noise. If one of the caliper clips is missing, this may also make noise.
Thread Starter
Pole Position
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: TX
I had the same thing happen with a set of the same exact pads.
The sound was the pad "skipping" over the rotor instead of grabbing smoothly. It would grab and lose grip then grab and lose grip...ect (all happening VERY fast)
I bought Akebono pads (OEM) from Rockauto and my problem was sole forever.
Never again will I buy those pads again for any vehicle.
The sound was the pad "skipping" over the rotor instead of grabbing smoothly. It would grab and lose grip then grab and lose grip...ect (all happening VERY fast)
I bought Akebono pads (OEM) from Rockauto and my problem was sole forever.
Never again will I buy those pads again for any vehicle.
I should mention that in the past I've had Duralast Gold C-Max pads on the front with Duralast Gold rear pads on my RX with Duralast rotors. I didn't really like them, dust wasn't an issue though. The pads always deposited material onto the rotor causing a "warped" rotor sensation. Had them replaced under warranty for free though and used the second pair till they were worn as well. So not a terrible option, but I'm loving the Akebono pads & napa rotors setup I have now.
I would suggest you check the temperature coming off the rotors after this noise happens. It could be that the caliper piston is stuck and either doing more work (or less) than the others.
Some other thoughts, have someone check the rotor for warpage with the appropriate tool. I forget what the acceptable tolerance is, but it might be causing the noise. Make sure the shims are on the back of the pads or you'll get a chattering noise. If one of the caliper clips is missing, this may also make noise.
Some other thoughts, have someone check the rotor for warpage with the appropriate tool. I forget what the acceptable tolerance is, but it might be causing the noise. Make sure the shims are on the back of the pads or you'll get a chattering noise. If one of the caliper clips is missing, this may also make noise.
I bought some Brake Kleen and I'm going to take everything off once more, clean every component and lightly scuff the pads. While I have the front wheels off, I'll look for any signs of damage from the clunking/binding noise that may point to a culprit and then I'll bleed the line to see if any bubbles are present.
On that note, I've been using the one man brake bleeder from Autozone (sounds like I'm a rep from all the purchasing I've done from them) and it seems to work fine, but has anyone had bad experience from it, ie: letting air back into the system.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=46839_0_0_
