My moms RX has two bad actuators. I ordered the Mabushi?? motors and tore into it yesterday. When I finally got the passenger front door disassembled and spent 30 minutes surgically opening the case, The gear on the end of the motor was NOT coming off.

I have since located via AUTOZONE a complete case that looks like it will fit.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...5881_195312_0_

My question is, will this fit, sure looks like it and for $75, I am pissed I wasted so much time trying to pull that motor out.

Secondly, I have not physically seen the driver rear door actuator, I have the part # 69060-48010 for the whole assembly but have not physically seen the the motor/case so I cannot match up a corresponding AUTOZONE part since I have not seen it.

Any help would be much appreciated. I am also in need of an antenna mast if anyone has a quick link to that piece.

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

You can get the gear puller for less than $20.

You can use the claw end of the hammer but that can destroy the old motor (who cares).

Salim

 

Welcome to Club Lexus!

I don't recall anyone attempting to use a actuator like that.

If you can find it at a local store, and they will accept returns. I suggest buying it and seeing if it works. If it doesn't you can return it!

Not only will this benefit you, but I'm sure it will help others who may want to DIY this but are having difficulty cracking the case open, etc.

At $91 it's still cheaper than a new assembly.

 

Thanks for the replies, I am reasonably confident that actuator will fit, and yes autozone will take it back.

The gear on the end of the motor was actually a metal spline that appeared to be permanently fixed to the motor shaft. It was not a white plastic gear that I had seen in the diy threads.

Just wondering if anyone has a picture or something that would help me identify the rear driver door unit so I can do both at the same time.

 

lock actuator has a gear that is tapped on to the shaft (the dia of the motor shaft is slightly bigger than the hole in the gear). You have to muscle it out or use the mechanical advantage of the puller tool.

I am skeptic about the part you mention. As a fore waring, all electrical/electronic equipment is non-returnable unless it is defective OR it is unused. So if an attempt to fit is made, it becomes non-returnable item. Please check with the seller.

Piggy back method is well proven as an alternative.

Salim

 

Trust me, I tried to get it off. I am not a rookie and got quite a bit of leverage under the gear and it was clearly going to pull the motor apart. Not that I cared, but that gear and the bushing on the shaft of the motors I had purchased did not appear compatible. So I am out $10

I find it interesting that searching through this site, swapping the gear of replacing the entire assembly seem like the only two options. I cannot have been the first one to find the motor and gear assembly cassettes sold separately.

 

You my friend, have not searched hard enough then.

Search on here for the piggyback method, that Salim mentioned earlier.

 

This is how I did all four. I have a bench vise and clamped the old motor in it. i took a screw driver and put it parallel or across the opening. Then I used needle nose pliers to pry the collar up going from side to side. Worked like a charm.
I also used the same vice and a small deep wall socket to press it back on. The shaft goes all the way through the motor. So don't worry about damaging the motor.
It doesn't take a lot of force.


Bax

 

I just did two of my actuators a couple of weeks ago.
You need to buy and use the Walkera W010 Gear Pinion Puller.
It's the safest way to get the bushing off without damaging it. I would not be able to pull it off without the tool no matter how much I would try to muscle it out.

I got mine for $13 on ebay (although it costs $15 now). Well worth the investment. Realize that if you break or bend the bushing, you will need to get the whole actuator, as I don't think you will be able to buy a replacement bushing.

What do you mean they don't appear compatible? They have a different length or thickness?
This is the motor you should've bought....

SIZE SPECIFICATIONS:
Shaft: ROUND - 2mm diameter x 9.85mm length
Canister: 24.2mm Diameter (18.3mm on flat sides) x 30.5mm long
Overall Length: 45.0mm (Tip to Tail)

 

I'm sure you already checked, but for others who might benefit; the cable bundle from the driver door to the body gets flexed the most and brocken or intermittant wires inside that rubber sleeve are a common issue. Way cheaper...