mckellyb

I changed the oil in my wife's RX today, and each time, I forget just how painless it is.

First you need a catch pan and a 14mm wrench. If you don't have a ratcheting box-end wrench, lemme tell you, you'll like 'em.

The great thing about this engine's drain plug placement is, you don't have to raise the vehicle to access it. Just slide under the front a bit, and you're there. If you don't have/can't borrow a creeper, grab a slab of cardboard, and you're golden.

I've never found an easy way to avoid getting oil on the block/undercarriage plastic, other than unscrewing the filter quickly, and without hesitation. If you're lucky, and eventually good at it, you'll find you can unscrew it by hand. The size is just about perfect, and if you stand at the RF fender, using your left hand, it's easy to reach. Once unscrewed, tilt the part facing the front of the vehicle, the part pointing at the radiator fan & blades, down, so you drop as little as possible. It will wiggle out of this area if you move it toward the driver's side. There is a combination of angle and location which allows it to slide right out.

I've never had much luck getting them back through that area, but the key is, DON'T FORCE IT!. There's much plastic right there, and you don't want to crack any of it.

CAUTION! Do not remove the filter while the exhaust is hot. I'll drain the oil first, then let the engine cool before diving into burned skin country. You cannot avoid touching the exhaust manifold. Well, you might, but then your day job is likely involves magic.



The slightly longer oil filters I use are NAPA, part number 1516. With NAPA filters, the first number is the 'series', i.e. 'gold', 'platinum', etc.

The gold ones are 51516, platinum is 41516. I used gold this time, but platinum last time. I'm not convinced it matters a great deal, but IIRC, the platinum filters are around $13, while the gold was $8. I use NAPA 'cause they're Wix filters, and from my motorcycle days, I recall them always testing quite well. The group of both long-distance and Honda ST1100 riders I was part of were a bit, well, consumed by oil filtration. There were 10 day rides which were 12K miles. Not much time for an oil change, so pretty much everyone ran Mobil 1, and on the ST1100, the filter from an Infiniti J30 was a tad larger, very easy to locate, and fit just fine.

A few people tested their oil after the Iron Butt, that 12K miles in 10 day marathon, and it always came back as having a few thousand miles left in it!

Granted, the engines were never off more than a short time. At most, typically four hours.

Don't forget to put a light coating of oil on the new filter so the gasket does not stick to the block, and it also makes it quite easy to remove, next time.

I don't think I've ever used a filter wrench on Princess, the RX. That makes me happy, 'cause I could see major damage being done if you lose control of it just a little bit.

99rx

iTrader: (6)

Great tips! Thanks for posting this. Possibly add this on to the DIY sticky...

carguy07

Wow you are a better wrench than me. I curse this car every time I remove/install a filter.

PaulDaisy

Mine has a Carquest filter on it from the PO. Makes me cringe every time I open the hood. On the next oil change I will put in a Bosch, I never had any problem with them.

mckellyb

I used to, until I took some time to look at it, then played with a new filter, putting it in & taking it out, seeing just what I could do with it and what path it needed to take.

It requires patience, but filter removal always seems much easier than getting a new one in there, and in my mind, it should be the other way around.

Partywave

Thank you! I'm a new RX300 owner and I am amazed at the asinine location of the little oil filter. I tried and tried from above and from below. I guess my situation was exacerbated by a most difficult to remove filter design (perhaps there are better filter designs like the NAPA long filter mentioned by mckellyb) and because the previous owner or mechanic overtightened it. End result was sore muscles a headache and a dented/scarred filter from my attempts. So, I had no choice but to add new oil without changing the filter.

I've owned over a dozen vehicles (domestic, European and Japanese) in the past 25-years and did oil changes in them all from and never had any problems to speak of. I have religiously changed my own oil ever since a Jiffy Lube stripped the drain plug in one of our cars >10-years ago.

But, with this RX300 - it is beyond difficult; it proved to be impossible for me. I'll take it to a Lexus or Toyota dealer and hopefully my disfiguring the filter won't make it impossible for them to take it off.

Am I using the wrong tool? I paid >$20 for the tool on the right that is supposed to be specifically for the RX300 filter but it won't grip the filter on my vehicle. Do you guys remove from above or from below?

salimshah

If you stay with the OEM filter, I have the part number listed for the cup style filter removal tool [Oriely parts carries it] in DIY thread.

Salim

carguy07

I use the cup type, but I have to push it on pretty tight to get it to stay put. Different brands of filters take different filter wrenches. I just ordered some K&N from amazon with the nut on the end. Buy 3 get 1 free, expires at the end of the month.

I do the filter from the top.

hypervish

I have the cup style as well, I pretty much own every size so I pick the one that fits best (the size usually varies per filter) and usually it's on there pretty good. I go in from the bottom by taking off the plastic shield. It's possible to go from the top using the cup style tool but I find it's easier for me personally to go from the bottom.

Partywave

I appreciate all of you sharing your advice.

Iluvlexus

I use a cup style from the top and have welded the extension to the cup to make the assembly the perfect length and very stable. Still a challenge, but familiar and doable. I also installed a Fumoto valve and tube which makes draining the oil a snap.

If you think the RX300 filter is tough to access, the RX400h is worse:

salimshah

Just in case you are still having trouble, I have used the band/clamp tool but added one or two layers of drywall sandpaper (looks like a mesh instead of paper) wound between the filter and the band to increase the grip.

Salim

Partywave

Thanks, guys. Iluvlexus, your tool sounds great but I'm not a welder. I like that idea, Salim, of using a band/clamp style tool with sandpaper for grip. I think that's what it's going to take to get mine off.

ADKLEXUS

New Lexus owner here too. Did the first oil change on mine and was also surprised at how tricky it was to remove the filter. It's all about proper hand placement it seems. Next time should not be as challenging. Used M1 oil and will likely go with a 5k mi change interval. Used a Bosch filter- on sale at AutoZone (basically free w/the M1). I use a lot of Bosch on our Beamers with good results.

mckellyb

I've found, and this is over years, it's best to attack removal/installation of the filter while you stand next to the RF fender, using your left hand as the filter wrench.

I'm not left-handed, but I can get it to do simple tasks...usually.

Doing it while standing in front of the grille will do nothing but frustrate you.

I think I had to use a filter wrench on it once, and I hated life for about an hour while doing it..

People think, inexplicably, the filter needs to be on there with a couple hundred Newton/metres of torque, but half a turn after gasket contact, and you're good. The rubber seals quite well against the block. Overtightening actually increases the risk of a leak.