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...I replaced the burnt bulbs with sylvania's from Autozone. They were the correct part number and had the correct number of filaments in each bulb....
I battled this intermitent problem for quite awhile.
Dash light came on as soon as I hit the brake after each startup.
I had also replaced the bulb with Sylvania from Autozone.
Car was at dealership for another issue and they installed a Lexus bulb.
Problem went away for good.
Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't have thought the quality of name brand after market bulbs would be a realistic possibility for the light coming on. Looks like I might have to break down and take it to the stealership. I'm getting ready to sell it and don't want any indicator lights on. Ill post a follow up once its resolved in case anyone else has the same problem. Thanks again.
Thanks for the reply. I wouldn't have thought the quality of name brand after market bulbs would be a realistic possibility for the light coming on. Looks like I might have to break down and take it to the stealership. I'm getting ready to sell it and don't want any indicator lights on. Ill post a follow up once its resolved in case anyone else has the same problem. Thanks again.
Yes, any warning light in dash would drop the value of the vehicle.
The sensor measures the current draw and that is where the Wattage of the lamp becomes important. With a reputable after market manufacturer, you are some what assured that the specified wattage on the package would be correct for the enclosed bulb. Cross fitment guide typically ensures that the bulb can be plugged in and in 'some' cases the wattage is matched. The buyer should confirm.
For the wedge type bulbs, use needle nose pliers to straighten the wires for a perfect fit. When you get them out of the package they may be twisted/turned a wee bit.
Problem fixed! It was the high mount bulb. Replaced the new aftermarket bulb with one from Lexus and it went out. After closer inspection, there was a small burnt area on the connector that I missed during my first inspection (couldn't see it until the socket was separated from the red reflective housing). Hope this helps someone down the road. Thanks for the advice.
On a related note, we've now got a 2000 model white/gold trim 115k miles for sale. It's in good shape relative to others I've seen. I'm in Birmingham, AL if anyone knows someone looking. There's probably a for sale section, so I apologize if this is misplaced.
i have this problem, the 3rd brake light only is out. the bulb has been replaced but its still not working and the dash light comes on(and stays on) when i step on the brake for the first time after each startup. is the 3rd brake light on a seperate fuse, because my other 2 brake lights work fine.
All brake lights went out at once, no idiot light on dash, all bulbs are fine, have not checked the master cylinder yet, mechanic changed the brake light switch, sensor was next in line he said, part is big money, heard online other people bypassing the sensor and it works fine, thought I would ask the pros before attempting
Thanks
Electric current to the tail lights flow through a sensing resister in that box, current flow lowered than design spec and the light illuminates. Some circuit but separate sensing resister for stop lights. Sometimes extended life bulbs do not require enough current flow to meet the spec.
I suspect the sensing resisters will be simple nichrome wire links. It would take a SERIOUS short circuit, two actually, to burn these nichrome links open, plus which that would cause an indication. So it appears to that the module itself has come unplugged or there is no 12 volt power to the module.
I have been looking a possible solution to my brake light issues as well. At one point I had a check engine light and I checked the code and sure enough it was the brake light switch. I have swapped it out twice and still has not corrected the issues. I no longer have the check engine light. I have checked all the bulbs and they appear to be fine. Only one I have not changed is the 3rd brake light bulb. Also at one point in time I could not get the car out of park without using the override button. I checked the fuse and it was blown. Popped in a new one and then that allowed me to get out of "P" without using the button.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
My Lexus RX 300 brakes lights wouldn't come on when I pressed the brake pedal. Checked the fuse and it was okay. Read online to check the light failure sensor in the back luggage compartment on the driver's side. Took a while to figure out how to remove the trim. Held in mostly with plastic push in plugs that you have to pry out. Found the sensor box, detached it and removed the connector. Read online where you can bypass the sensor box for the rear brake lights (see below).
"Find a green\white wire on pin 7, Find a Green\Yellow wire on pin 1, Find a Green\Red wire on pin 2. Cut these 3 wires and connect them together."
I cut the three wires a little ways back from the connector so in case I had to I could splice them back together. Twisted the three wires together, plugged the connector back into the sensor box and tested the brake lights. Brake lights all work. No cost solution and out only a little time. Put a wire nut on the twisted wires and wrapped up with black electrical tape.
I wanted to share what I found when experiencing the same, no-brake lights, problem. I pulled the lamp failure module and removed the back cover. I had intended on soldering in a jumper between pins 1, 2, and 7 from inside the module so there would be no wire cutting while I located, ordered and acquired a replacement module. When I went to solder the jumper onto pin 7, I noticed a cold solder joint. I ended up just re-flowing the solder and, bam!, brakes lights are working again.
I wanted to share what I found when experiencing the same, no-brake lights, problem. I pulled the lamp failure module and removed the back cover. I had intended on soldering in a jumper between pins 1, 2, and 7 from inside the module so there would be no wire cutting while I located, ordered and acquired a replacement module. When I went to solder the jumper onto pin 7, I noticed a cold solder joint. I ended up just re-flowing the solder and, bam!, brakes lights are working again.
These modules are about $400 at the dealer so it's worth trying this fix - very little to lose and most of the work is getting it out. There are a couple more posts on this fix on the forum here.
Hello, new member here. My 2000 RX has a taillight sensor control with some burned electrical components. No taillights at all. Brake and turn signals work fine. Searched the forums for a bypass method and didn't see anything for my vehicle. Any advice on how to bypass this connection? Thank you.
Thank you all for these posts. I found this thread at the top of the list! My brake lights have also failed with the same problems exactly as c17boom including no dash indicator lamp.
Salim has had a good set of comments and the module idea is good. I'll try that right after this post. ALSO my 4 pin trailer light connector has never had the tail lights work so I usually stuff a long jumper wire into one of the license plate lights to get juice and that has worked fine. The module did not have juice into it for the tail lights 14 years ago. I'll also check the connector for rust or moisture like Salim said.
Thanks to all again...we'll see!
AlanVR
Toyota and Lexus Join Mille Miglia For The First Time
Slideshow: A five-car lineup spanning more than five decades of Toyota performance and engineering will tackle one of Italy's most celebrated automotive routes.
