Stripped Engine Oil Drain Plug
Is this something that I should be responsible for?
Thanks in advance.
Golfman8
Even if the "previous" mechanics had overtightened it, he was final one that messed it up so it's his fault. So what, if there is a chip on the window that isn't spreading, but somehow he drops a ratchet lets say on the windshield and cracks it, he's not responsible because the windshield was old and it had a chip already?
Also, where is the $500 coming from? He's replacing the engine? The pan alone is maybe $200 tops.
Perhaps you can have a larger bolt tapped and installed, instead of replacing the pan. Also, if nothing else, dealer should be paying for the labor and you perhaps the part. This is baloney and you need to dispute this.
But instead of letting those crooks touch your car again, take it to a local small mechanic and have them replace the stripped out oil pan bolt with a quick valve oil change system. These are really inexpensive and easy to install. If you have a local harborfreight tools near you even better, no more stripped out oil pans:
http://www.harborfreight.com/quick-v...tem-94879.html
Your dealership is lying to you. They should replace it free of charge, which they likely won't do... Take it to an independent mechanic and see what they say, it's probably just the bolt that's stripped but it's possible the dealership messed it up even more on purpose and ruined the pan as well.
Is there oil leaking from the car right now?
Even if the "previous" mechanics had overtightened it, he was final one that messed it up so it's his fault. So what, if there is a chip on the window that isn't spreading, but somehow he drops a ratchet lets say on the windshield and cracks it, he's not responsible because the windshield was old and it had a chip already?
Also, where is the $500 coming from? He's replacing the engine? The pan alone is maybe $200 tops.
Perhaps you can have a larger bolt tapped and installed, instead of replacing the pan. Also, if nothing else, dealer should be paying for the labor and you perhaps the part. This is baloney and you need to dispute this.
Most likely the threads on the pan are messed up. The bolt is relatively harder material.
Here are couple of options:
With the pan on:
A grease loaded tap is used to cut threads and trap cuttings. Pretty straight forwards. I would still dump a qt of oil and let it drain out to flow out the left over cuttings. An oversized crush washer would be needed on every oil change.
Better is to remove the pan:
Cut the threads and rinse the pan and install. Labor and parts (pan gasket) makes it costlier.
Replace pan: most expensive but you are as good as new.
If retap, make sure they use the bolt of the same length.
Salim
Last edited by salimshah; Jan 13, 2011 at 08:40 AM.
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With the MB- several different places did oil changes and I had no idea who did the damage. Corky does not use a torque wrench on the pan bolt nor does he on lug nuts. Warped brakes and premature wear, broken wheels, and worn out wheel bearings result in lug nuts that are supposed to be torqued to 90 that have been slammed to 250. You'll never be able to change a flat either- I bent a lug wrench jumping on it with a torque extender. Local TV did a story at the mall and randomly asked 10 people to loosen their lug nuts and none could do it. Whenever I get service that requires wheel removal, I tell them to torque it to spec and I check with my torque wrench. Wal-Mart is the only company I have come across to specify and put on your paper work the wheel torque they used (without me having to tell them). Most service guys act as If I am speaking Greek when I mention lug nut torque.
Last edited by IIKings920; Jan 12, 2011 at 08:33 PM.
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If they scratch a panel that has rust or a ding in it should they not worry about it?













