2001 RX 300 AWD -160,000 miles - first issues with this baby. See Pics.

Started to notice a smell 3 days ago and was 1/2 qt oil ( Mobil 1 5W/30) low yesterday. Took to friend at Jiffy Lube tonight and was a quart low this time. I did drive about 200 miles in-between.

Inspecting it - Seemed to leak as soon as we wiped it.Then checked the bolts and noticed they were loose so we hand tightened what we could reach, topped off with oil and left.

Came here and read posts for the Auto-Rx treatment and will give it a go for kicks and grins. My gut tells me it will need to be replaced. In the meantime I plan on using cheap 5W/30 Dino oil.

I am seeing posts estimate repair cost between 1,000 - 1,500. Is this about right at an independent or Toyota dealer?

Feedback or suggestions are welcome.

 

Yup, that looks like rear main... Try the Auto-RX, I think it'll seal it up. Your leak seems bigger than others, but Auto-RX is an amazing product. I've never believed in additives, till Auto-RX, although that's still the only additive I trust.

 

The pics were taken before using a socket to hand tighten the loose nuts. I can't believe I overlooked the torque on these. The leak is 50% slower now.

 

Check with your buddy ... tightening the bolts around should not change the leak ... the cavity is supposed to be dry .. unless the rear main seal is leaking in there.

Keep us posted.

Salim

 

What bolts did you tighten?

 

X2 There are no bolts that you have access to that would slow a rear main seal leak.

 

[QUOTE=carguy07;5943355]What bolts did you tighten?[/QUOTE

There are 4 bolts/nuts around the bell housing that I tightened with a wrench. In one of the pics one is covered in oil.

From what I have read this is not the cause nor will it affect the seal leaking.

Ordered the Auto-Rx this morning.

Will call for repair estimates as a back up to the ARX and see what happens. Will keep you posted.

 

Here I go quoting myself .... a bit of sleep does wonders to the overtaxed brain..

The bolts you tightened will affect the angle the shaft has as it enters the transmission. The angle may make a difference on how the shaft exits the engine block and thereby impacting the seal.

Would it cured by tightening the bell housing ... not sure. In any case the bolts do need to be tightened.

Salim

 

Salim,

Yea, I thought it prudent to at least tighten them and it slowed the leak slightly.

I am anxious too see if the ARX helps and will keep everyone posted. In hindsight, I wish I had known about the ARX product sooner for PM and wonder if by switching to full synthetic from the blend at 90K attributed to my seal leak.

I have no complaints - this is a great vehicle.

 

Got my Auto Rx in and will begin using it after Thanksgiving. Got 2 estimates on replacing it.

1) $1,300-1,350 -
2) $ 1,000 - includes replacing front pump seal and all fluids.

Both are independents

The first claimed 20 man hours or 2-3 days, the latter said 2 days.

I am not familiar with the front pump seal so your thoughts are appreciated.

Last, since I am at 160 k should I consider doing anything else while they are doing this?

Thanks

 

It can take a several hours to get out the tranny to get at the seal. I might argue 10 to 15 if someone had done this job before on an RX. Yes, it can take 2 days (assuming it's a 9-5 working hour day).

Since you're going to have the tranny off, I'd take a look at the transmission seals (but don't get suckered into replacing them if there isn't a problem).

 

Lexmex,

Is R&R of the Front pump seal standard for this repair? Not familiar with it but guess it's on the tranny side? Also, as an FYI, none of these places had good things to say about Auto Rx.

Perhaps it works and explains their bias.

Thanks All & Happy Thanksgiving!

 

Had my rear main replaced on my 2001 RX a few years ago for $700 at a Toyota dealer...it is all labor costs...the seal is about $20 dollars

I would reccomend a Toyota dealer....they know the engine/tranny well (highlander etc)

 

I believe your observation is correct.
What they are probably talking about in reference to the front pump seal is the converter seal. It's easy to change while the trans. is out and it's cheap. They wouldn't be talking about the front pump seal on the engine (the oil pump is behind the lower timing gear (on crankshaft)). What JCJR said about Toyota dealers is correct, they are not used to the insanely high labor rates of Lexus dealers and the trans. removal would be similar to a Highlander and even a Camry. For the cost of the gamble, I would still go with the Auto RX. Remember, It does it's job slowly, over an oil change or 2. If you saw how rock hard the seal gets you'd understand why it takes time to remove the deposits in the engine and soften the seals. But it does work, unlike most of the "Promised miracles" in the way of "flush specials" that only flush the money from your wallet.

Happy Thanksgiving to you!

 

I bought three bottles of the ARX and plan on giving it a good chance to do its magic. During the ARXing period will go to local TOYO dealer for an estimate for the rear main seal/ front pump seal and compare to my second estimate. The point that JCJR is well taken and is under consideration. If it must go in for repair will peak at the tranny seals as Lexmex suggested.