. Does anyone know how to remove those wires attached to that front motor mount?
Front motor mount replacement
CL Community Team
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 16,603
Likes: 1,402
From: Austin, TX
The wires are part of the mount. The connector is between the white and green arrow. Just decouple it from the harness and the rest is part of the mount.
extra_informaiton: The mount is active mount and the electrical pulse counters the vibration.
Salim
extra_informaiton: The mount is active mount and the electrical pulse counters the vibration.
Salim
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
From: TX
will check that out. Thank you
Rookie
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 42
Likes: 4
From: CA
I want to tighten it back but I can't find the torque spec for that bolt.
Thanks!
Pit Crew
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 238
Likes: 46
From: Springfield MO
Pit Crew
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 182
Likes: 0
From: In the Skies
does anyone know how to remove the engine stabilizer or is it straight forward.
Thank you kindly in advance for any help!
Stay safe
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
From: AZ
The front mount is easier to get to from the top front of the vehicle. The only bolt I had a problem with was the top center, 17mm bolt. The internals of the mount, along with the bolt tend to move in the same direction when trying to loosen it. It took a few times, you need to be quick and use a good amount of torque to get it loose. Also, I removed the oil filter to make this process easier. I also used a 1/2 socket extension, so the rachet would be above the engine frame. Hope this helps.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
From: AZ
Sorry for bumping an old thread. I've been trying to replace the front motor mount and i got everything loose, but i can't seem to maneuver the mount out between the exhaust manifold and radiator fans. It definitely wont come out from the bottom as space is really restricted. I lifted the engine about 2 inches with my engine bar but still not enough room to remove it. any suggestions?
Thanks.
Driver School Candidate
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 16
Likes: 3
From: AZ
I just did this and I can say it wasn't as easy as it sounds but if you have worked on cars before somethings are hard. This one is difficult because you definitly have to remove the radiator. There is a good DIY article on how to remove the radiator. There isn't any other way to maneuver the mount out of the car without doing this.
As JohnLX300 mentioned the oil filter also needs to be removed.
The center 17 mm bolt still had some resistance to it so I was able to loosen it with a breaker bar. The other three 14 mm bolts are easier. Pay specific attention to how the connections are going into the mount as this is an active mount and moves up and down depending on the vehicle speed/idle. No need to remove the top dog mount. You only need to raise the engine a littlte to remove and install the mount. Do not go over board in raising the engine.
In putting the bolts back, the center one needs to go in first. Turn it about 1/2 way before putting the front bottom 14 mm bolt. Then put in the two side bolts. Don't tighten any of them just hand tight. Once the three bolts are in lower the engine and tighten the center bolt all the way then proceed to tighten the other three. Go over the center bolt once more to make sure it is tight.
Don't be discouraged if the center bolt doesn't turn easily even though it isn't in much. This means it isn't in place correctly. You'll need to start the above process over.
I also recommend changing the "Engine Torque Strut" if it has never been changed and your car like mine has over 200,000 miles on it. Four bolts and there you go. Put some penetrating fluid on the top bolts.
12361-20060 Engine Mounting, Front
12307-20021 Engine Torque Strut
Hope this helps someone and send me your questions. Good luck to you all.
As JohnLX300 mentioned the oil filter also needs to be removed.
The center 17 mm bolt still had some resistance to it so I was able to loosen it with a breaker bar. The other three 14 mm bolts are easier. Pay specific attention to how the connections are going into the mount as this is an active mount and moves up and down depending on the vehicle speed/idle. No need to remove the top dog mount. You only need to raise the engine a littlte to remove and install the mount. Do not go over board in raising the engine.
In putting the bolts back, the center one needs to go in first. Turn it about 1/2 way before putting the front bottom 14 mm bolt. Then put in the two side bolts. Don't tighten any of them just hand tight. Once the three bolts are in lower the engine and tighten the center bolt all the way then proceed to tighten the other three. Go over the center bolt once more to make sure it is tight.
Don't be discouraged if the center bolt doesn't turn easily even though it isn't in much. This means it isn't in place correctly. You'll need to start the above process over.
I also recommend changing the "Engine Torque Strut" if it has never been changed and your car like mine has over 200,000 miles on it. Four bolts and there you go. Put some penetrating fluid on the top bolts.
12361-20060 Engine Mounting, Front
12307-20021 Engine Torque Strut
Hope this helps someone and send me your questions. Good luck to you all.
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