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Need some info/help on AF Sensor

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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 08:00 AM
  #31  
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I got these.
Amazon.com: Denso 234-9009 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive Amazon.com: Denso 234-9009 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive


The CEL and VSC were gone immediately.
I couldn't find a better price.
In my local Lexus dealer, I was asked for 380$ a piece.
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 06:54 PM
  #32  
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Hi everyone,

I have a P1155 on my 2002 FWD, which sensor is it? very confused, read too much conflicting information.

Is it the one in the front by the radiator that LexMex shows in his 1st pic on page 1? Is the replacement part for it 234-9009?

Thanks!

Last edited by maorsela; Mar 12, 2016 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 11:13 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by maorsela
Hi everyone,

I have a P1155 on my 2002 FWD, which sensor is it? very confused, read too much conflicting information.

Is it the one in the front by the radiator that LexMex shows in his 1st pic on page 1? Is the replacement part for it 234-9009?

Thanks!
The part No is correct.
B2 S1.
In general, it is recommended to change them both at the same time.
I don't think that 200$ is too much.
Even that I am from Bulgaria, I ordered mine from USA and together with the PB blaster and sensor wrench, plus postage, cost me 240$.
Otherwise you will run these $$$ through the exhaust pipe
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:44 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by rosen71
The part No is correct.
B2 S1.
In general, it is recommended to change them both at the same time.
I don't think that 200$ is too much.
Even that I am from Bulgaria, I ordered mine from USA and together with the PB blaster and sensor wrench, plus postage, cost me 240$.
Otherwise you will run these $$$ through the exhaust pipe
No, it is not generally recommended to change both except by stealerships and dishonest indies. One can outlast the other by 40-50k miles.
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 01:25 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by artbuc
No, it is not generally recommended to change both except by stealerships and dishonest indies. One can outlast the other by 40-50k miles.
I mean that for extra 100$ it's not worth the hassle to do it again. Anyway, it is a Lexus, not some cheap crap car.
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 03:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by rosen71
I mean that for extra 100$ it's not worth the hassle to do it again. Anyway, it is a Lexus, not some cheap crap car.
You are not doing it again as there is no overlap in labor. Also, just because it is a Lexus (and I have owned two of them) does not mean it is smart to replace perfectly good parts. If you needed front brakes would you also replace the rears just because it is a Lexus?
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 10:01 PM
  #37  
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CEL, VSC, Trac on. Code 1135. I replaced the MAF and A/F sensors, but the lights are still on. I informed the mechanic. He stated that I should drive the car 200 miles to clear computer...if the lights come back on bring the car back. This is such a major headache as I've not had any problems out of my 02 RX300. It still drives very good!! I keep the oil changed on schedule. I've wasted $$$.
Can someone please tell me if driving the car 200 miles will fix the problem? Or, what could be the issue? I'm unable to get an inspection...

many thanks!
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Old Mar 17, 2016 | 10:53 PM
  #38  
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Did you get the codes cleared? P1135 is A/F sensor.
If not, disconnect the battery for 10 min., and reconnect it.
The lights should be gone. Drive the car and check again. P1135 is a heater circuit of the A/F sensor, and the light should come on at once if the circuit is not OK.
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Old Mar 18, 2016 | 01:09 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by jazz7452
CEL, VSC, Trac on. Code 1135. I replaced the MAF and A/F sensors, but the lights are still on. I informed the mechanic. He stated that I should drive the car 200 miles to clear computer...if the lights come back on bring the car back. This is such a major headache as I've not had any problems out of my 02 RX300. It still drives very good!! I keep the oil changed on schedule. I've wasted $$$.
Can someone please tell me if driving the car 200 miles will fix the problem? Or, what could be the issue? I'm unable to get an inspection...

many thanks!
If you had a spurious code, it will clear after a predetermined number of drive cycles which may or may not correspond to 200 miles depending on the nature of the miles driven. You can check the heater circuit with an VOM (two black wires). Hardest part of replacing B1S1 is separating the electrical connector. Once you have 100% confirmed it is bad, just cut the wires at the connector which will do two things for you. You can pull up the wiring to undo the electrical connector and you can use a regular 22mm 6 point deep socket to remove the old sensor. Unless you have a very high quality O2 sensor removal tool, the slotted O2 sockets tend to flex which could lead to rounding off the old sensor making it very difficult to remove.

Last edited by artbuc; Mar 18, 2016 at 01:20 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2018 | 11:27 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Lexmex
Bank 1, Sensor 2 (underneath your vehicle and behind the main catalytic converter) (yep, this is the emissions one).
Thanks Lexmex. Just got Check Engine light and the code is P0136 (for bank 1 sensor 2) from an ODBII reader. Need to confirm that Denso 234-4215 Oxygen Sensor is the right part number before ordering.

Amazon priced it at $53.78:
Amazon Amazon
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