I have a 2000 Rx300 early production, I am getting P0330 CELs and the accompanying timing changes and no overdrive after the CEL. Thanks to everybody on this forum I am at least educated enough to know it is not a transmission prob, so I can explain it to my mechanic and not have him telling me I need a new transmission.

I am tired of stopping and restarting my car at every light to get overdrive again so I finally decided to get it fixed. I have a few questions:

Is this problem only experienced by 1999 and early 2000 RX's? (haven't seen it from later RX's)

I appear to have the early version of the sensor changed around 8/99, can I use the new style and was there a complete redesign. (why)

My mechanic said the new sensor looks completely different from the old one, (my old one has a solid back and the new has a hole in the back) my feeling is they may have changed it to update the design with all of the failures of the previous design. Question is can I use the new style to avoid future problems?

Thanks again for all the help this forum gives me. If anyone has any questions about my experience with this Knock Sensor problem give me a shout.

 

Do you have a part number for this sensor that you got?

As far as I know, the knock sensor issue is not endemic to any particular year, but of course as vehicles get older, it may appear that certain years are more prone to problems. I have repeatedly referred to this post here on this site (scroll down a bit to see it), http://www.findonefindall.com/toyota...ock_sensor.htm

 

Lex, Thank you I will try to get the numbers tomorrow when I go to pick up the car. I will also get a look at the parts also. The mechanic has both so I may be able to get a pic side by side. He checked the Mfg date and my car is just on the border for a 2000. Aug 1999 they changed the sensor the next month. He felt the difference between the 2 sensors was dramatic enough to wait for the old style sensor to come in from out of the area (he had 2 of the newer style ones).

I have had my car for 10 years, got 135000 on it and I still love it. I would like to get a 450h but I can't part with my RX300. BTW the quote with new plugs and 2 sensors changed is about 900.00.

I have experienced the same problems with the knock sensors as everybody else. Started with a p171 MAF cleaned it problem gone, a few days later P0330 that I cannot shake.

Keep up the great work of moderation this Forum, it is great and saves everyone lots of valuable money. We need you more now that the gen 1's are getting older. So many still on the road, they just don't die.

 

Had engine rebuilt and am going to replace knock sensors. Is there any benefit to goin with OES? Is there any risk of going with a cheaper knock sensor made by Delphi? On a sidenote, when is knock sensor supposed to trip the check engine light?

Compare
OES Genuine Knock Sensor
For 2001 Lexus RX300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L

Availability: In Stock
PART#: W0133-1738523 MFR#: W0133-1738523
List Price: $184.05
Our Price: $157.95
You Save: $26.1

Compare

Delphi Knock Sensor
For 2001 Lexus RX300 Base 6 Cyl 3.0L

Availability: In Stock
PART#: DEAS10131 MFR#: AS10131
Our Price: $128.26

DELPHI KNOCK SENSOR -- A high quality, direct fit OE replacement knock sensor.

 

Frank- I understand your situation with the nightmares with the car- and your desire (need) to save some money. Having said that, Delphi as you know was spun off from GM. They have made a ton of parts for car companies around the world... but, if you asked me if their quality equals what Lexus built the car with, in spite of what the propaganda that's trying to get you to buy the part says, I think there's little chance of it. I don't think the leopard has changed it's spots much, and even though it was spun off, it did so after ALL of GM had lowered their quality from what it once was in the 50's and back, to more modern thinking that says "if we make it too good, how are we going to sell replacements" I would stick with OEM, but understand if you feel you need to watch the cash.

 

I had to replace mine at about 107K on my 2001. CEL P0330 started slow then picked up to nearly every time.

Anyway, I was able to get the OEM parts online and Toyota installed for $550. I saved about $200 doing it this way. Toyota warned me more than once to make sure I got the OEM sensors because they had problems with people getting aftermarket then returning for CEL P0330. This appears to be in line with other sensors that need to me OEM suck at the Fuel/Air.

I think I paid $125 for Toyota OEM W0133-1738523. I'll track down all the required part numbers if you want and where I got them. There is a lot more than just the sensors.

Good luck!

 

I was just curious because it seems like toyota may have a problem with the knock sensor for these vehicles, should I also replace the knock sensor wire harness? If you got Toyota knock sensor for $125 I definately need to know where that is. I need to order today if the general concensus is to stick with the Toyota part. I have all the gaskets already. Thanks for all your feedback.

 

Having had discussions with Toyota Solara members over on www.solaraguy.com, there consensus has been to change out the harness, the coolant bypass hose and some have said the intake manifold gaskets (though I am not convinced on the manifold gaskets). You also have to remember to drain out the coolant when doing the bypass hose.

This picture shows the bypass hose, http://www.toyotanation.com/photos/s...cat/500/page/1

I should mention going on the subject of GM knock sensors that some with superchargers on their 1MZFE Solaras have run those sensors, but again I'd strongly suggest to stick to OEM given the amount of labor involved here.

 

Yes, I also ordered the bypass hose that Toyota said was smart, cheap insurance to swap out while they're there. I think it was $12.

Update:

Okay, I lied (a little....I just checked my receipts. In May 2009 paid $132.96 each for OEM knock sensors, $25.66 for the wire, $10.38 for the bypass hose, and $1.96 each for the bypass hose clamp. All OEM parts shipped for $10.00

I got them at Metro Toyota in Kalamazoo, MI http://www.toyotapart.com

Here are the part numbers I used for my 2001:

(2) Knock Sensors: 89615-12090
(1) Sensor Wire: 82219-07010
(1) Bypass Hose: 16261-20010
(2) Hose Clamps: 90467-28007

 

Ordered parts from
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...&siteid=214840

Prices listed online
knock sensor=$126.99
coolant bypass hose=$9.72
wire harness=$25.72

$30 overnight shipping

I didn't think of hose clamp but should be able to pick up at any parts house locally I would think.

 

Well just got my car back from an Indie in Orlando, changed both Knock Sensors with Toyota OEM. Looks good so far. Problem started slowly and in the end I was getting CEL p0330 codes constantly. Decided to change after having to continously restart car to keep it in overdrive.

The mechanic checked the date code on my car it was a very early 2000 RX. Date code 8/99. When he pulled the sensor it was different then the one he ordered. Two major differences, the new one was slightly smaller and had a hole on the end with the threads. The old one was bigger with a solid end on the threaded side.

Part numbers:
Old pre 8/99 Part number 89615-12040
New later production number 89615-12090

The parts were different enough that the Indie decieded to wait for the old style sensors to arrive the next day.

I have good pictures of the sensors side by side and will email to you by request.

 

The pictures of the 2 different style knock sensors, the old one is pre 9/99 and slightly larger then the new one. Note the hole in the threaded shaft on the new one.

 

Maybe I'm slow but what is an Indie? Short for Independant?

 

Independent garage as opposed to a dealer (stealer)

 

I have a 99 RX300 cel indicates knock sensors per a Lexus dealer, the car won't shift into od consistently, it has tended to shift into od after we have driven the car for a while, let it set for a while and then drive it again. If I have the knock sensors replaced could this fix my problem. I know its a step in a direction, I hate to spend 300 to 900 to have it fixed and it not be the problem. Any ideas?