The following is an e-mail I received from the guy who is rebuilding my engine

"Usually, cylinders have only one ridge where the rings expand at detonation (top of the cylinder) and wear down the bore progressively less as the compression decreases (the piston travels down the bore). In your case there were multiple ridges down the cylinder on all cylinders. I have a few suspicions but will do a little research and come up with a plausible explanation."

"According to the Tech dept of the Automotive Engine Rebuilders Accosiation, you have a severe electrical problem. There is detonation and or multiple spark or ignition coming from your computer. The knock sensor may also be an issue since this is an issue that it is supposed to detect. The memory of your computer should have fault codes that a dealer could identify. If you had no check engine lights on prior to engine failure then your computer, knock sensor and possible wiring may all be suspect. Since the transmition is electricly controlled by the computer, there is a remote chance that there may be some issues there also, that according to AERA. At least a full diagnostic test and evaluation of your computer is a MUST! Also, replace the knock sensor. Once the new engine is in and running, again do a compete extensive diagnostic on your car's electrical system and computer. Hope this helps, John"

So besides the sludge, which is likely caused by whatever issue they have uncovered, thats my story. Man if it's not one thing it's another!!! I had no check engine light. So I will replace the knock sensor. How do I test my ecu myself?? If it needs to be replaced does anyone know if someone out there rebuilds them?? I hear used ones are a pain because most don't have keys, can they reprogram my key? All this is getting really expensive.......if I could go back I would have left this one at the dealership!!!

 

If the onboard diagnosis was working fine [CEL] should have lit up. Also you would have noticed erratic engine behavior. Mechanic should perform sensor check. I would only trust Lexus/Toyota to do the ECU checking (I dont even know if that can be done).

I hope we are not talking about piston slap.

One approach can be, do the rebuild and leave the sensor/ecu alone. Tackle them after every thing is put together.

Your mechanic maybe very competent or could be generating more work or could be hedging his rebuild by keep bringing options to you. You need to know your mechanic.

Salim

 

Your mechanic is hedging and or incompetant.
Any scan tool can check stored codes, it takes only minutes.
Knock sensors can be checked by KNOCKING them while viewing
the timing with a timing light. Multiple sparks are not a problem, hell,
there is a company founded on the principle, MSD (multiple spark discharge):
http://www.msdignition.com/page.aspx?id=8451
I have their box in my hot rod, works great!
The transmission couldn't do anything fast enough to cause that, and you sure
would have noticed it!
My theory is when it sludged, the pistons/rings didn't get lubricated causing
them to slap (like Salim mentioned).
Hopefully he knows he will have to bore it an put in oversize pistons, right?!
Gary

 

Maybe I needed to be a little more specific, this is the diagnostic run by the gentleman who is rebuilding my engine. It had already thrown a rod and been removed and shipped to him. There is definately sludge present (long story I already posted "Obvious engine sludge issue claim denied", which is still an ongoing process. So during the tear down process he found abnormal cylinder wear and e-mailed me this.

Prior to the above message:
"Hi Frank, Yes we received the engine last week. It is mostly machined at present with most of the new parts acquired and we hope to have it done by the end of the week. Many of the old compression rings were broken and it had some very peculiar and severe cylinder wear besides the broken con-rod and burnt crank journal."
He followed this message with the post I made above.

The rebuild is being done by a professional outfit that has been in business for 30+years and have had several friends refer me to him. He only has the engine. The vehicle is in my possesion (I removed and shipped engine upon finding that sludge build up had caused me to throw a rod due to lack of lubrication) and there was no CEL present before or during the engine failure. Also the engine was starved for oil (sludge plugged oil pick-up) and burnt enough in 2200 miles that it was no longer reading on the dipstick. I found it odd that the oil light never came on either. This vehicle was at a Lexus dealership offered for sale with 79,890miles, sold to the dealer I bought from who bought it for his daughter who put 5,000 miles on it, and I purchased with 85,000 to have the engine fail at 87,000. What I'm saying is Lexus wholesaled this RX because they knew it had some issues and now it's my issue. Did I mention I sell cars and have been involved in the automotive sales industry for 6+years and know the in's and out's. Lexus had to know there was an issue with this vehicle!!! By tracking down all that I have in my best estimation of things the problem was originally diagnosed by Lexus at about 52,000 miles where it apparently had unexplained overheating issues. No low coolant or fluid leaks. What a scam........(maybe ignition issue then?)

When I purchased the vehicle there was no noise coming from the engine and had a fresh full oil change. If there was enough piston slap to cause that kind of damage there should have been some obvious noise right? I'm sure the dealer I purchased from may have had an idea there was an issue too (had to be pretty heartless because I had my fiance who was 7 months pregnant at the time with me and knew I was getting the vehicle for her) On a brighter note I am a brand new daddy to a 7lb9oz baby boy as of Tuesday the 25th (right on his due date) So you can welcome little Karson James to the Lexus family!!

 

Does anyone know if Lexus cleared the codes at the dealership during their used car inspection if that would still be stored? Will any codes be stored due to the fact that the battery has not been hooked up for aprox. 3 weeks now?? (Even though no lights were present during my breif ownership anyway)

 

I was once burnt on a purchase, where the CEL bulb was burnt [by chance or intentionally by the selller ... I dont know]. Ever since I make it a point to turn ignition on and see all the warning lamps come on.

The used car sales is a minefield, specially vehicles sold "AS iS".

I have no idea if a master history is kept. The codes can be cleared by the OBDII tool or even when the battery is removed [drained out etc].

Salim

 

To my knowledge, when the battery is unhooked, bye bye go the codes. If they have been erased by Lexus or any other person, bye bye as well.

 

Can i just take out the ECU and take to the dealership to have it tested?? It's already most of the way out anyway and was wondering if they can do a diagnostic to see if it functioning properly. I have a strong suspicion this may be the major issue I'm having.

 

They should be able to. They may still want to have the vehicle there at some point (then again maybe not).

 

if i need to replaced my ecu what happens if i get a used one? does my odometer still read correctly? the one i found xtremely cheap has no keys, can i reprogram my current key to work with a used ecu???

 

FJ- I trust someone with actual experience will chime in but I think the ECU (PCM) is cheap because it is for all intents and purposes worthless. The keys are attached at the hip with the ECU and without the keys, I don't think there's any way to reprogram your keys to that ECU. That's what Lexus will tell you, but it may be possible for a skilled Locksmith to do what Lexus says can't be done. Good luck!

 

Most ecu's I have found do not come with keys, there has to be a way to program existing key to new ecu.....

 

Some used ECUs are listed with the key included. You need the master key to program the ECU to accept your keys. Also some ECUs are sold by locksmiths/rebuilders. These ECUs usually come setup to accept your key for programming. So a key is not needed. Always check up front before buying. If you end up with a used ECU without the key you can always search for a high end local locksmith who can re-flash it or just send it out to be done.
Sewell lexus does it mailorder. Here is a link to a thread by member who just had it done by Sewell. In fact he bought a used ECU had it reflashed and it didn't solve his problem. This means his old ECU is good. If you are in need of a ECU maybe you can work a deal. Maybe even borrow his key so you can program your keys to the ECU.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx-...ease-help.html