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Will frequent oil changes prevent sludge/gelling?

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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 05:46 PM
  #1  
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Default Will frequent oil changes prevent sludge/gelling?

Hello,

I don't want to start another discussion about synthetic oil etc but with all the discussions about oil sludge in these engines I have one question.


Is the general consensus here that frequent (3K miles) oil changes can somehow prevent any potential oil sludge in these engines????

I have a 2001 RX300 with 82K miles....Bought with 60K....very happy with the car so far...

Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:19 PM
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Default same deal

I have; like you, a 2001 RX-300. I have 86,000 miles. 2wd. Only problem was the broken antenna, rear oxygen sensor and both air servo noises. Too much grease on contacts from the factory. Both DIY from info. here. I have always used Castrol 5-30. Dyno oil. Replaced every 3,000. I just switched to mobil 1 syn 0-30 econo. blend about 15,000 miles ago after reading this forum. Also replaced trans. filter and went with mobil 1 full syn. new multi. vehicle formula and replaced it again with the same 5,000 miles later to get most of the old fluid out. All done myself with total help from this forum. Saved $$$$$. And i hate dealers!!! No engine issues or trans issues as of yet. I have thought about pulling the rear valve cover and checking for sludge to maybe prevent an issue. But it runs so well i want to just leave it alone. Every vehicle is a gamble, but if it is something that i have could have done to prevent it, then luck may be on my side. Cross your fingers.

Last edited by powerslide; Aug 3, 2009 at 07:22 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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After my ordeal with only 87k and perfect maintenience on my 01 rx300 I would recommend that you (or have a shop do it) Drop the oil pan to check for build up. Everyone says pull the front valve cover but mine had heavy sludge in the 1st and 2nd oil pan. You will also be able to see if there is any sludge building up on the oil pick-up. I did not have any warning lights come on nor did it overheat. I've heard several times now that a good synthetic will help prevent sludge. The one thing about sludge is that you don't have to have an extreme case, if you have solidified oil in your engine it can clog your oil pick up and prevent proper oil circulation. It's worth the little bit of time to make sure. In my case and all the other cases I've read about it happens suddenly without warning. It's definately not a cheap fix and Lexus is a pain in the a$$ to deal with on the oil gelling (sludge) recall!!!
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 09:06 PM
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A new engine or rebuild right? Before i would spend that i would drag it in for cash for clunkers if the program is still there, but most likly not. you got me thinking about dropping that pan and checking the oil pickups. There are 2 pans? How thick was the layer in the pan? Can i take the oil plug out and stick a clean wood stick in there and see what comes out?
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by powerslide
A new engine or rebuild right? Before i would spend that i would drag it in for cash for clunkers if the program is still there, but most likly not. you got me thinking about dropping that pan and checking the oil pickups. There are 2 pans? How thick was the layer in the pan? Can i take the oil plug out and stick a clean wood stick in there and see what comes out?
powerslide- This sludge is sometimes a little different than other sludge that I have seen. (not always, but sometimes). Sometimes it manifests itself as cinder deposits (best way I can describe it) at various spots around inside the engine. The one thing that is critical, in my judgement, is the oil pick-up screen. The oil pick-up is about 3 1/2 in. in diam. from what I remember. The problem is the opening in the tin plate covering the pick-up is only about 2- 2 1/4in. so it's a lot easier to get it plugged solid and cause oil starvation than it would seem, for it being 3 1/2 in. in diameter. I don't know what the reason for the restriction is.

I rather doubt that you would pull back a bunch of oil sludge on the stick, but I could be wrong. It pretty much gets deposited around in the engine.

The engine has a pressed metal pan on the bottom, with the drain plug in it. That is very easy to remove. It is bolted to what, if I remember correctly is a cast aluminum "pan" that is called the #1 oil pan. It simply looks like an extension down from the block, to which is bolted the #2 oil pan, a smaller pan which is what you would remove to get a look inside the bottom of the engine.

Last edited by code58; Aug 4, 2009 at 01:49 AM.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 06:30 AM
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I think if you use conventional oil and change every 3,000 miles or Synthetic and change every 4-5,000 miles you`ll be fine.Its the trans/drivetrain that is a concern for me.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 08:03 AM
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Thanks Lexus 114

What is the presumed inherent problem with the tranny????

Thanks
P.S.
I grew up in Bethlehem Township!
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by jcjr
Thanks Lexus 114

What is the presumed inherent problem with the tranny????

Thanks
P.S.
I grew up in Bethlehem Township!

The awd trannies biggest problem is an aluminum carrier w/steel gears.What happens is the aluminum warps,and the gears shift into the wrong position.And its good night Irene! Plus these trannies are very hard on the Toyota fluid.I use Wolf`s Head (Amalie) full Synthetic in mine.
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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Frequent will help definitely, from the get-go. If you buy used with say 70K and the previous owner just did maintenance once in a blue moon... then it's just luck if you have sludge or not and nothing including synthetic is going to help.

The buildup of sludge is caused when the oil does not circulate properly through the engine and starts to build up on the returns and feeds. Synthetic flows better, so if there is a sludge issue, it won't go bad as fast, but it eventually will also.

I got mine from a friend with 40K on the dial and knew they treated it like it was an owned vehicle, not leased. So, when I got it, I immediately switched to synthetic. Now with 120K, no engine issues whatsoever. KNOCK ON WOOD !!!!
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Old Aug 4, 2009 | 02:53 PM
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Thanks. I will have to keep an eye on that.
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Old Aug 5, 2009 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by powerslide
A new engine or rebuild right? Before i would spend that i would drag it in for cash for clunkers if the program is still there, but most likly not. you got me thinking about dropping that pan and checking the oil pickups. There are 2 pans? How thick was the layer in the pan? Can i take the oil plug out and stick a clean wood stick in there and see what comes out?
powerslide- The cash for clunkers requires it to run, be able to be driven in, to be registered and insured. No tow ins and you have to have owned it for a given amount of time also. Saw a woman on TV who said she spent $600. on her Caravan to be able drive it in so that it would qualify for trade in on the Cash for Clunkers sca... I mean program.

Last edited by code58; Aug 5, 2009 at 01:41 AM.
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