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Replacing Front Brakes

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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 06:30 PM
  #1  
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Default Replacing Front Brakes

Called the dealer today to get a price on front pads for my 01…$178.42 included pads and installation kit. Has anyone else replaced them and do I need the installation kit? Looked online and can get the pads shipped for $66; anything special about dealers pads except 3x the price?

Thanks
TE
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 06:39 PM
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Try search on DIY instructions. Depending what needs replacement ... I have only needed pads and anti-chatter grease.

Dealership will charge you labor on top and charge for turning rotors if needed.

Salim
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Old Jul 14, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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Go onto Irontoad and get the pads for around $45. They're a dealership in PA, so if you're in Maryland, you should get the parts either next day or within 2 days. I purchase in morning and get it in NJ next day because UPS is so close.

The installation "kit" is probably the pads and the flange bolts, can't imagine much else, except perhaps the shims, but you can reuse the existing ones.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 03:27 AM
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I replaced my front brake pads last month (first time). I got the brake pads (OEM) from Irontoad.com also. They advised me that I very likely didn't need a new anti-squeal shim kit and they were right. It was in new condition. It helps to get a spreader? (to push in the piston) and disk pad grease from your local auto parts store. Once the wheel is off, it is only a few-minute job.

I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.

The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 04:20 AM
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Thanks, I just ordered them and will change them this weekend
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 05:21 AM
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Default C-clamp

Originally Posted by bob2200
... It helps to get a spreader? (to push in the piston) and disk pad grease from your local auto parts store. Once the wheel is off, it is only a few-minute job...
You mean C-clamp right? To compress the piston back in?

I've changed the front and back of my '99 and I the pistons are pushed back in, not "spread" per say.

A 6" clamp will do fine.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by bob2200
I replaced my front brake pads last month (first time). I got the brake pads (OEM) from Irontoad.com also. They advised me that I very likely didn't need a new anti-squeal shim kit and they were right. It was in new condition. It helps to get a spreader? (to push in the piston) and disk pad grease from your local auto parts store. Once the wheel is off, it is only a few-minute job.

I do have a slight squeal though. I should have used the drying membrane spread I have used on the rear of the pads on previous cars (also available at auto parts stores). A mechanic showing how to replace RX300 brake pads on Youtube.com used the stuff.

The DIYs don't explain how to lube the sliders (a separate job), so I didn't. They seemed to slide OK.
You might want to double check on the drying membrane spread before using it. The stuff the guy on Youtube uses is CRC Disc Brake Quiet which is for non-shimmed pads. I can't imagine it doing any harm, but the manufacturer must have some reason in listing it for non-shimmed pads.

Last edited by mikey00; Jul 15, 2009 at 06:52 AM.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by AlexusAnja
You mean C-clamp right? To compress the piston back in?

I've changed the front and back of my '99 and I the pistons are pushed back in, not "spread" per say.

A 6" clamp will do fine.
C-clamp works fine but the pros do have a spreader made just for this purpose. You can get a cheap one for less than $10.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 07:15 AM
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Yea, use lube not glue on the shims on these cars. Very easy brake job.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:01 AM
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Cool Spread em' Dano

Originally Posted by mikey00
C-clamp works fine but the pros do have a spreader made just for this purpose. You can get a cheap one for less than $10.
Ah, I got you. Yes, I know what you're talking about and why you describe the process and "spreading." Yes, if you have NOTHING right now, then getting the piston compressor (spreader) will work well also. I've always had C-clamps from wood working days, so for me, that was handy and didn't have to spend money for yet another tool.

As for grease or Brake-Quiet, I've used both, and really, have not noticed any difference in effectiveness or not. Again, if you don't have either, get the grease instead.

Anyway, keep us posted on your job and how it went. One thing though, the OEM pads are not "symmetrical" per say in that the surface as one edge that is sort of grooved. I put that grooved side on the bottom so that it isn't facing up and catching brake dust and eventually collecting a little pile. I don't know if this is necessarily right or wrong because it fits both ways.
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Old Jul 15, 2009 | 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by AlexusAnja
You mean C-clamp right? To compress the piston back in?

I've changed the front and back of my '99 and I the pistons are pushed back in, not "spread" per say.

A 6" clamp will do fine.
The 6" may be an overkill ... I have been using 3" but it has to be angled in .. a 4" should be fine ... and certainly a 6" will work too.

Tip: Throw in a socket to save all the turning to reach the bottom of the cavity & un-threading all the way back to the top.

Salim
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by salimshah
The 6" may be an overkill ... I have been using 3" but it has to be angled in .. a 4" should be fine ... and certainly a 6" will work too.

Tip: Throw in a socket to save all the turning to reach the bottom of the cavity & un-threading all the way back to the top.

Salim
Do you need to open up the brake reservoir when you compress the piston or can you just compress it without doing anything else?
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by vanguy
Do you need to open up the brake reservoir when you compress the piston or can you just compress it without doing anything else?
If the brake fluid has been topped up as the discs have been wearing down (i.e., pistons expanding), you will have to remove brake fluid from the master cylinder when you push the pistons back.
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 01:11 PM
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I would take the cap loose even if there is room in the reservoir just to let the air out as you push the fluid back in.
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 10:38 AM
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The bedding is also needed. The following is what I did.
1). After installing the pad and put the wheels back.
2). I have found a long open road.
3). Drive to 40mph and brake slowly to 10mph
4). And drive to 40mph again and brake slowly to 10mph
Did this at least 10 times. The surface of the pads will be completely kissing the rotors. It maximize the performance of the pad and brake noise will be eliminated.
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