Air Fuel Sensor
Replaced Air Fuel Sensor(front manifold) with Toyota Part #89467-48011 and cleared CEL light. Light has not come back on. Code reader had read codes P 0100, P 0110 and P 1155 

Momscar- I would always suggest to clear the codes 1st and then see what codes come back up. You may very well find that the same codes do not come up the second time around, or at least not all of them. If you clear them, see what code(s) come up 1st and respond to that, it may be more accurate. Your other codes (P0100) refers to mass or volume air flow circuit malfunction. The (P0110) refers to intake air temp. circuit malfunction. I would say it would be a little unusual for the MAF and the A/F ratio sensor to go bad at the same time. Check the continuity (or ohms) on the 2 black wires in the A/F sensor you took out. Since that code (P1155) refers to the function of the heater, that will tell you if the heater is bad in the sensor. Remember that most codes take at least a little while to come back up when they've been cleared, so the CEL may come back or may not. It still wouldn't explain the other 2 codes. Good Luck!
Maybe I am unsure about the grammar, but he may have been implying that he had the codes previously and now he doesn't.
You know what I am still amazed at, I still have my OEM sensors after all the garbage they've been through in Mexico and still running.
You know what I am still amazed at, I still have my OEM sensors after all the garbage they've been through in Mexico and still running.

My front A/F sensor lasted almost 40K miles longer than the one near firewall. Oxygen sensor after the cat on our car last the longest, perhaps because it is outside of engine bay and endure lower temperature.
Shop manual indicated one has to remove driver seat to change oxygen sensor.
Maybe I am unsure about the grammar, but he may have been implying that he had the codes previously and now he doesn't.
You know what I am still amazed at, I still have my OEM sensors after all the garbage they've been through in Mexico and still running.
You know what I am still amazed at, I still have my OEM sensors after all the garbage they've been through in Mexico and still running.
I believed you mentioned that exhaust heat cooked these sensors. I think you are probably right since you get more air flow to cool things down, just another good reason to speed 
My front A/F sensor lasted almost 40K miles longer than the one near firewall. Oxygen sensor after the cat on our car last the longest, perhaps because it is outside of engine bay and endure lower temperature.
Shop manual indicated one has to remove driver seat to change oxygen sensor.

My front A/F sensor lasted almost 40K miles longer than the one near firewall. Oxygen sensor after the cat on our car last the longest, perhaps because it is outside of engine bay and endure lower temperature.
Shop manual indicated one has to remove driver seat to change oxygen sensor.
Last edited by lexus114; Jun 23, 2009 at 10:37 AM.
Also remember A/F sensor detect exhaust gas that is burned, not the status of mixture in the engine (knock sensor does that job).
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Actually higher octane gasoline enable the engine to retard ignition because the compessed air fuel mixture can hold on and not explode until spark spark ignites.
Also remember A/F sensor detect exhaust gas that is burned, not the status of mixture in the engine (knock sensor does that job).
Also remember A/F sensor detect exhaust gas that is burned, not the status of mixture in the engine (knock sensor does that job).
Last edited by lexus114; Jun 24, 2009 at 11:26 AM.
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