Nope,that`s from an independent shop that I always go to. (when I can`t do it myself)

 

KYB is the OEM struts, you can just buy online and go to EF1 Autosports in Signal Hills, they have a package deal that include mounting and 4 wheel alignments.

If you want to DIY, Autozone has loaner tools, all you need is a couple of handtools and half a day.

 

Are some spring compressor tools safer than others? It has been at least 10 years since I did a strut replacement. I remember the first tool I rented didn't have much of a bite on the spring so I rented a different style which seemed much more secure. I'll probably be doiing this job on my wife's RX and my Avalon sometime in the next couple years so I am interested in learning if spring compressor tools are better than they used to be and/or which one is the safest. Thanks.

 

Yeah, I've found some of the independents are starting to kid themselves they can charge dealer rates now!

 

Yeah, definitely KYB is just fine. Konis were the other option for the RX, but obviously are much more sporty and more money than I would think is worth to be spent. I had a set of Bilstein HDs for my RAV4 and they were stiff. The KYB are more road compliant.

I plan to have them installed by a friend who was a Toyota certified tech. I would think that I might assist him as well, as he doesn't have the luxury of a lift that he did when he worked at the dealer. Best deal I've seen on eBay is just under $400 shipped for all four GR-2s.

Thanks to all for the advice. I figured KYB was the sure deal, but wasn't sure on Monroe (no thanks).

 

I saw in Harbor Frieght that they had two styles of spring compressors. The new one looked a lot nicer. I have the old ones with the two threaded rods and hooks, they do work fine though... here are the new spring compressors at Harbor

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=43753

 

Thomas- I have 2 sets of the cheaper HF spring compressors (they look a little different than the ones on HF now, had double hook on each end), and I even used them for work for a # of years. One set is a little worn (I always used a 1/2 in. impact on 'em), but I never had any problem with them, they hook plenty well. Dylan even used them to replace a strut mount on his car a little while back. The thing I liked about them is they're easier to handle than the single unit in the link.

 

Yea, I have been using the same kind you do. I saw the other ones at HF but have no experience with them....I have replaced around 10 struts with mine....probably not as much use as yours....

 

Then all you need is a good wheel alignment.Heck just do it the way they do the stock cars!! It`ll be close enough!

 

Actually I found that my alignment was dead on after the replacement with KYB. I had it checked and they had to do nothing...

 

way to go bro!! My friend an I replaced a rack& pinion in my old 85 Escort many years ago. He just measured the specs (like I mentioned above) with a tape measure and got it almost dead on. Pretty cool huh??

 

No need to use the lift, I have installed three pairs of struts on my other car just using the a regular floor jack and hand tools with Autozone loaner compressor. Perhaps a little more time needs to be used for wheel removals.

 

Morning Thomas- for both you and Lex114- There is no need to do an alignment when you replace struts on a car that has no caster or camber adjustment, as is the case with the RX, that is unless you wallet is causing you to walk lopsided. I did alignments in the coarse of my work for a quite a few years. The alignment shop doesn't have a magic wand to be able to align something that has no alignment provision. (there are exceptions) If somehow it makes a person feel better to transfer some of that weighty wallet to someone else, that's their business. I can even tell you how to do the toe-in without having to take it for alignment, if needed. As there are reasons for all the questions that I ask, there are reasons for me doing the alignments for those years that I did... I won't bore you with it here.

 

Agree, my problem was a hard curb hit and the steering wheel was crooked. As for the rest of the alignment it was dead on. Only had that one alignment in 11 years..

 

Did you ever figure out WHY the steering wheel was off, Thomas? I've explained it before so I won't bore you again with it, but whenever I found the wheel off from a curb hit or accident of any kind, I ALWAYS tried to determine where the damage was. If something is a little bent, that doesn't cause tremendous concern, But I want to know that it is only a minor bend (a curb hit is a tremendous amount of force on the steering parts) and not a FRACTURE, because I have seen them. Slight bend in the knuckle arm, no biggie because that is not likely to ever break, and it is a common damage in side force on the wheel. I actually built a universal fixture that would check a strut bend or knuckle arm bend very quickly and easily. There is nothing else on the market that will determine WHAT & WHERE the damage is that I know of. When you can't align a car like the RX (and many others), and there is only toe adjustment, you need to know where the damage actually is without just throwing parts at it. What if it still won't align after you have put all new parts on. This fixture will tell you exactly where it is (and if it's insurance, show them exactly where it is). I'm glad that it aligned perfectly after the curb hit. I actually found that those that are built with no C&C adjustment are generally quite rugged and even with age, they pretty well stay where they belong.