I dropped the pan on my transmission a couple of weeks ago and did the fluid change. When I was in there I was very happy with what appeared to be very little metal on the magnets and the fluid wasn't in horrible shape either. I drained out approximately 4.5 quarts ATF and replaced the same. Recently I have noticed a bit of a clunk in the morning when I engage the transmission from P to D. I am not terribly worried right now as the transmission shifts very smoothly but I am concerned about the fluid level. I am having a hard time getting a good reading on the dipstick both hot and cold. each time I pull the dipstick out it seems to drag fluid about two inches above the hot line. Sometimes I can see a small dry spot near the mark but getting a definitive reading is difficult. Thoughts?

 

Mine goes up to the IV on Type-IV on the dipstick, have had it there for years (and that is high) 2 inches seeems very high whether cold or hot, but sometimes, the fluid sneaks up the dipstick shaft and can screw up readings.

When I do a drain and fill of the front differential/tranny, I used 4.5 bottles of Type-IV for my AWD RX300.

I also get that clunk on occasion and sometimes it is not there.

 

One way to avoid this situation requires pre-planning. Measure off what you drained out.

Since the right way to read the trans level is to check it with the engine running, there will be slosh affect. The right level will always be where there is fluid acorss the whole width ... you can safely ignore the thin strip of fluid at the edge. In my exeperience the higher the fluid level, the more is edge wetting.

Salim

 

Welcome to the thrust washer syndrome... You have had an internal trani problem as a result of not allowing the trani fluid to circulate enough before shifting into gear after the filling of fluid...

The symptoms are exactly as you indicate... No adverse symptoms when driving as the clutch unit still engages properly while in gear.. See my pics of my internal trani problems with exact same symptoms...

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...smission+clunk

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=240839

With the engine at optimal operating temperature (drive 5-10 km) and the vehicle on level surface while idling... Shift between all the gears with your foot on the brake and back to park...

Check the fluid level.

Should be at the HOT area.

And ALWAYS ALLOW THE NEWLY INSTALLED TRANI FLUID A CHANCE TO CIRCULATE BEFORE SHIFTING INTO GEAR FROM PARK!

My suggestion... Keep driving it as its not worth effort to repair...

I spent $3800 to ovehaul trani and only the 2 first thrust washers were noticeable as the problem.

The nipple on one of them had broken off causing missallignment.

Hope everyone learns from my mistake.

Cheers,
Fern

 

I checked the tranny fluid the other night and seemed a touch low so I added to the hot line once I figured out to check the fluid level while the vehicle is idling. The clunk was not apparent the following morning so I assumed all was better. I then took the car to the mountains for the for the weekend and it drove beautifully there and back. when I got back tonight I had to put it into reverse and I got major clunk then to drive major clunk. I drove home and put it into the garage to check the fluid level and it was low??? Where could my ATF have gone? I read the description from fern and I wonder if the thrust washer is the problem. What confuses me though is I let the engine warm up completely before I shifted the transmission. Is this something that could have been caused from normal wear or hidden when I purchased the vehicle, or did I do this during the fluid change?

 

Are you loosing trans-fluid due to a leak? Puddle/drip/wet-surface. It seems your trans-fluid level was low to begin with [one or more chamber was not filled up... follow the process below to ensure all chambers are filled up]

Procedure to check fluid.
Drive around the RX for 15-20minutes. Engine warm up alone has no significance as the trans fluid temp needs to be worked up by actual motion.
Park at a level surface.
Rove the gear shift from park to all positions. Wait 30 sec at each positon. Bring the gear shift back to park, pausing for 30 sec at each position.
With the engine idling, check the trans-fluid level. Wipe the dip stick as many times as required. Ignore the thin strip of trans on the edge of the dip-stick. Add/drain(suck) as necessary. Wisdom on the CL Forum is, it is OK to be little below than little above.

Cant comment on thrust washer or the clunk due to lack of knowledge.

Salim

 

I just check it when it's cold. As soon as after startup, I pop the hood and check the fluid level.

I occasionally check it when it's warm just to be sure. Over the years, I realized that it's really not necessary to shift all over the place before checking the fluid level.

 

You raise an intersting point.

Is it periodic check you are talking about or after a drain and fill.Roving through the the gears would make sense once the chambers are empty

mrekid's drop in level can be accounted for by a partially filled chamber. So lets see what he has to say about leak.

Salim

 

I did check it warm after drain-n-fill at Lexus dealer at 30K & 60K. The dealer seemed to have done it right so that the ATF is always at the correct level.

Or maybe they didn't change it at all? Well, it's still cherry red after 83K miles with daily high-revving mountain driving. Toyota Type IV of course.

 

I did a drain and fill on Sunday before I went racing (tranny pan and front differential in my AWD). I actually needed exactly 4 bottles, instead of 4.5, bottles of Type-IV even after racing through the gears, level was the same.

 

My owners manual says drain and fill including front diff is 3.9 litres.

So Lexmex,
did you do anything unusual like rev engine at fast idle ie: 1500 rpm for 1-2 minutes (to allow ATF to circulate).

And if not, did you notice the "clunk" when shifting into gear after D&F

 

Before I forget, I have to do my third drain and fill this weekend, so if we want to experiment on anything regarding the procedure, we have a chance.

In the past, I have noticed 4.5 bottles, not sure what that comes off to offhand.

What I do is after adding 4 bottles, I turn on the vehicle and wait a minute, then I shift into all gears (up and down) 3 times, holding the gear for about 2 second in each one...then I let it run until the engine is fully warmed up. From startup, this is about 13 minutes from my experience, then I turn off and check level. Mine still sits at the IV on the Type IV mark when hot.

The clunk is less noticeable after this when going from P to R.

 

I was going to do my own d/f next time but reading your inputs here I am going to let the experts do it.

But, I want to use the best fluid available, can I mix the latest synthetic transmission fluid used in the GS with mine at a d/f or should I stick with the IV?

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...sion+synthetic

 

I'd stick with Toyota Type IV. Toyota's vehicles are well-known for rock solid reliability. Use factory specified fluid will help your Lexus stay that way.

If you wish to experiment, get a brand name synthetic ATF that is specifically made to match Toyota's spec. Steer away from some one-for-all snake oil sold through underground market.

 

ROFL, how many statements that you have made, such as one below, has turned out to be 100% wrong?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=212728
I am currently 12K miles on Amsoil ATF on my RX300 and not a single shift problem.
gserep1 has over 70K on Amsoil ATF in his GS400, Amsoil ATF still going strong
Amsoil ATF solved a tranny jerk problem for GStep's GS400, and a reserve slip for Vic Nyce's ES300.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...t=95215&page=4

And didn't Lil4x already warned you about these "smirky" and incorrect comment?