Oh great! geez, if that's the case (I have to look into that a bit more), I'm gonna switch brands of oil.

Right on the bottle / jug, of Mobil 1, it states that it's a "Full" Synthetic motor oil. How do we find this out for sure? I'll be really peeved if that's true & it's nothing more than "refined dino" oil.

 

Just got this off the Mobil 1 website:


Mobil 1® Vs. Conventional Oil
Mobil 1 is a fully synthetic motor oil for automotive engines. It is made from a combination of advanced, high-performance fluids, including polyalphaolefin (PAO), plus a unique package of additives, including the SuperSyn™ anti-wear system for protection under the most extreme use.

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ helps provide significant advantages over conventional motor oils, such as:

Anti-Wear
Superior protection under heavy engine loads/stresses, such as hauling and towing.
Minimizing oil degradation.

All-Temperature
Faster lubrication at start-up in low temperatures.
Superior protection at high temperatures.
Superior resistance to thermal breakdown.

Engine Cleanliness
Superior protection against harmful deposits.
Cleaner running engines.

Engine Efficiency
Greater resistance to oil oxidation (thickening).
Lower oil consumption under high-speed conditions.
Optimizing engine efficiency.
All motor oils are made up of base oils and additives. In general, fully synthetic motor oils contain non-conventional, high-performance fluids. Semi-synthetic oils (also called "blends") usually use a small percentage of non-conventional, high-performance fluids in combination with conventional oil. To meet the demanding requirements of today's specifications (and our customers' expectations), Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ uses high-performance, engineered fluids, such as polyalphaolefins (PAOs), along with a proprietary system of additives. Each Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ viscosity grade uses a unique combination of synthetic fluids and selected additives in order to tailor the viscosity grade to its specific application.

Exceeding Standards
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is available in five viscosity grades:


Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 10W-30 – Higher-Mileage Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 5W-30 – Newer Vehicle Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 15W-50 – Performance Driving Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-30 – Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula
Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40 – European Car Formula

Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is truly a global formulation, exceeding the latest standards of the oil industry and vehicle manufacturers.

For instance, the appropriate grades of Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ exceed API Service SL/CF, European ACEA standards and Japanese valvetrain requirements. In addition, certain viscosity grades exceed ILSAC GF-3 and specific OEM standards. For instance, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30 exceed ILSAC GF-3 and are certified as "Energy Conserving." As another example, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ 0W-40 exceeds Mercedes-Benz's 229.3 specification.

The overall goal for Mobil 1 is to provide the highest level of performance by protecting your engine, even under the most severe conditions, such as very cold starting temperatures, extreme high-temperature operations and high-load conditions. With several car manufacturers now extending or varying oil change intervals, Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ has been formulated to provide more performance reserve. But Mobil 1 with SuperSyn™ is not just for extreme service. You can also realize Mobil 1's benefits of improved engine cleanliness and long engine life under "normal" service.

 

Thanks for the info.

I am not sure what Mobil means by "advanced, high-performance fluids," but I am guessing that it is true synthetic.

 

Toyota as a whole has addressed this issue many times with both their Toyota and Lexus lines. Although Toyota has accepted the responsibility and have been kind to their clients with replacing many engines at their own cost, they have admitted nothing to the fact that their engines have a sludge problem persay. What they have found is that the engines that have encountered this unforeseen sludge issue, were cars that were mainly driven in the city without any longer drives to its repetoire to "let the engine go" so to speak. These longer drives are imperative to have maximum oil flow for an extended period of time, thus reducing the chance of sludge build up. Regular oil changes alone will not prevent sludge build up...but together with a weekly long drive on the highway - your engine will thank you with long service without the chance of sludge. Happy driving.

 

I hope so Harrier...........however, I am seriously considering switching to Amsoil (ASL) 5W 30 synthetic......I just have to figure out the cost factor for me.

Jeff,

I find it kind of distrirbing that even with regular oil & filter changes that you can still get the sludge problem that effects the 3.0L V6 between the 97 - 01 model years. I agree however tha a good highway drive is good for the car & engine, it's just a little dis-heartening to know (& possibily get) there is still a remote chance of this problem occuring. I take my ES yearly to Florida & always change the oil & filter (Synthetic) just before I leave & as soon as I get back.........I'll be furious if it ever happens to me especially if I'm thousands of miles from home.

 

A bottle of Castrol Syntec I have says "Full Synthetic", you're right, whatever that really means. I have to say that after 5k the oil is a rich amber color and not black at all like the dino used to turn after just a couple k miles. Now I use MOBIL1 since I picked up a bunch on sale at Walmart (I know) for about $20.40 a few months ago.

The gell issue is why I changed from dino completely on the '03 right away. When I got the formal letter from Toyota about it a couple years ago, and so did a friend with a Camry, I changed out the black dino at 2600 and will only ever use full synth. The cost is not an issue at all, nickel and dime matter to fret over an extra $15 every 5k imo, and who cares on a $40k car, it's worth it both for extra insurance against gell problems and for general engine longevity imo. Cost is probably offset by the slight mileage increase synth. is alleged to provide. Whatever the technical issue is (heat, drainage, oil deterioration, etc.) that causes this gell problem I thnk the best oil is worth the effort to obtain, and get the dealer to use, or change myself every other change, so far so good.

 

I agree parula.....I won't use anything but synthetic in my cars. I'm thinking of switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil now however, but I have to weigh the costs & how easy it is to get my hands on it......it's not as readily available as the other popular synthetic oils which is a bummer.

 

Well, first, what do you mean by "correct" intervals? And was the correct grade of oil used? What some people and organizations consider "correct" may not in fact be correct for a given engine and driving conditions. Toyota/Lexus itself "recommends" 7500 mile changes for "non-severe" service, but most people drive in what is considered "severe" service and should change their oil more often. Today's engines are built to very close tolerances, and most manufacturers today mandate 5W-20, 5W-30, or 10W-30 weight oil for quick flowing on start-up. Most of us here on CL agree that 3000-5000 mile oil changes are best under most driving conditions.

The fact that Toyota is willing to replace these engines shows that the facory "recommendations" may not have been adequate for these engines....and some owners were just plain neglegent besides. I've explained at length in other posts why the 3.0 V6's are not forgiving of extended drain intervals and am not going to repeat it here, but the point I'm trying to make is that very few engines have actually failed when given, say, 3000-5000 mile changes with the proper oil grade.

If you DID change your oil every few months and DID use the proper oil and filters, did not over-rev or otherwise abuse the engine and it STILL failed.....well, then, you have my condolences and it is no fault of your own....and Toyota SHOULD eat the bill.

 

I agree MM......what I mean by "correct" intervals is what is specified in the maintenance manual of one's respected Lexus owners manual & depending on if they require the 'regular' interval which is what you state is 7500 miles or the 'severe service' which is no more than 5,000 miles. My manual states I should change it every 6 months OR 5,000 miles (which is 8,000 kms roughly in Canadian speak). Even with synthetic oil, because of the possibility of the sludge issue happening, I do at least 3 oil changes a year & psooibly 4. I use the recommended grade of 5W 30.

 

How often did you change the oil? And in what kind of driving condition?

Welcome to ClubLexus, by the way.

 

OK, chief......if that is the way you have maintained your vehicle (and you can document it), then as far as I'm concerned, you (or dmodem or whoever it is we're talking about) is due either a new or a remanufactured engine.....FREE....and it looks like Toyota is going to pay up here.

Remember...when you get the new engine...the same break-in rules apply as with a brand-new car. I know the question is inevitably going to come up about using dino or synthetic oil. I still don't think synthetic is necessary in areas that do not see extreme summer or winter temperatures, but if you choose to use synthetic, give the engine several thousand miles on dino oil to completely break-in before switching to synthetic. The extreme slickness of synthetic often will not allow a brand-new engine to break-in or the piston rings to seat peoperly.
The important thing with ANY oil....dino or synthetic...is to keep it changed.

 

And...........by the way, dmodem, I see you are a brand-new CL member, with only 3 posts.
Welcome to one of the best auto forums on the Internet. We're glad to have you. Many of us at CL live, breathe, eat, and sleep car talk. There are also good news and political-chat forums.
You will learn a lot here....and I'm sure you will have much to contribute as well.

 

Agreed MM......I was refering to dmodems problem (he says all oil & filter changes were on time & still the sludge problem). I have done the same as him (although I have used synthetic oil). I'm hoping I do not have the same problems down the road or I'll be fuming.......large.

 

All oil services were done at no more than 5,000 mi. intervals. I received the RX back yesterday and all seems fine (it took 5 days to complete the engine work). As of this point, we will be using synthetic oil from now on (hopefully, that will cure any problems).

 

Congragulations on your new engine. Was the work done to your satisfaction? I hope there are no problems with it.
See my earlier posts......if you want to use synthetic for the long run, fine. It will give the engine better (but costly) protection than dino oil will. I don't think it is necessary in most places in America but respect your decision. However, it is best not to use synthetic until the engine has broken in for a couple of thousand miles....then you can use it till your heart's content. Reason.....the excessive slickness of the synthetic formula does not allow the engine to really break in properly.
Anyhow...good luck with the new mill.