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As a DIYS person, does anyone know what the oil pan plug torque spec is for a 2003 RX300? In addition, where is a good on-line source to buy oil pan plug gaskets and OEM oil filters? (I assume Nippon is the OEM filter of choice). Thanks for your comments.
i would just buy them at the dealer, and keep thje receipts in case you have any warranty issues regarding DIY maintenance.
if the drain plug uses a crush washer, the dealer should sell that too. you can "feel" when the washer collapses when tightening, in case you can't get the torque spec.
There's irontoad.com. The price isn't much better than the dealer's though. You can always buy the plugs and filters at Toyota for less. The RX300 and the Highlanders are mechanically identical.
The filter is made by Denso for Toyota. Not sure who makes the U.S. version.
Originally posted by bobbyo As a DIYS person, does anyone know what the oil pan plug torque spec is for a 2003 RX300? In addition, where is a good on-line source to buy oil pan plug gaskets and OEM oil filters? (I assume Nippon is the OEM filter of choice). Thanks for your comments.
Originally posted by bobbyo As a DIYS person, does anyone know what the oil pan plug torque spec is for a 2003 RX300? In addition, where is a good on-line source to buy oil pan plug gaskets and OEM oil filters? (I assume Nippon is the OEM filter of choice). Thanks for your comments.
Buy oem oil filter and use the washer that is supplied with it.
This washer will provide some "give" when your torquing more than the required spec- saving the threads on the pan.
Or, do what I do... Let car run for about 5 minutes, then turn it off and use a topsider oil extractor to remove oil in crankcase via dipstick.... When it cools, remove the oil filter from above.
Put new filter in (from above) and then fill with 4.7 litres of synthetic until next 6000 km change..
Note: monitor and top up oil level every 1000km when using synthetic..
I tighten to stiff firmness then a s l i g h t bit more.
Fern, fwiw I haven't had any problem with syth. burning out so far, level seems ok after several k on this change, but I agree totally you are clearly right on checking oil levels every 1000k, I do, regularly.
So is the torque spec on the drain plug with a fresh washer 29 ft/lb or 18 ft/lb? It is 18 on my M3, but it is a collapsable (sp) plug, so it is very important to follow the specs or the head will snap off of the bolt so you don't damage the threads on the pan.
Also, my Lexus dealership gives me the crush washers for free when I buy a new filter.
Finally, has anyone else heard that if you run Techron fuel system cleaner, to do it before the oil change and make sure that the tank of gas has already been replaced? The reason I heard was because the fuel does come into contact with the oil in the cylinder so the fuel system cleaner can contanimate the oil.
A. Is there any validity to this
B. Even if a little fuel system cleaner came into contact with the oil, would it make it less effective than regular fuel would with all of its cleaners?
I pulled up the 99RX300 Repair (service) manual and it states the torque as 33 lb-fts. I have been torquing it at 29 ft-lb which is the spec for the GS.
33 lbft wow, I'd be surprised if I got that much on it with a hand wrench trying not to kill the washer- unmeasured. I could see the washer sort of start to barely squish out so I stopped - no leaks even with synthetic.
While I believe in folowing torque specs whenever possible, especially on bolts that hold things together (like caliper bolts), I don't get out the torque wrench for the oil pan drain plug. Since there is no oil pressure in the oil pan, just snugging it down works for me. Relace the washer... Why ?? I think they give you one just in case you drop the old one (in the oil...).