I have a bit of an odd problem. At least, odd to me. The front door locks don't work when pressing the lock/unlock buttons inside the car or when using the key. They do work when manually locked/unlocked. The front passenger I'm sure just has a problem with the actuator, it will try to lock/unlock and will sometimes succesfully lock. But the driver side door never does, I don't think it even tries, I don't hear any sounds coming from it when I try. Everything below is maybe related, but I'm not sure, so I'm posting here hoping for some insight from the folks more knowledgable about these cars than I am.

Here's where it gets a little weird. I just purchased this car in December, overall in good condition. Very happy with the purchase up until about 2-3 weeks after I bought it. Went out to go somewhere and it wouldn't start. Battery was fully dead. Wouldn't even light up the dash when putting the key in the ignition. The battery was brand new as of Sept. 2024 and I was given the receipt when I bought the car, so I took it to autozone and had it warrantied after getting a jump from AAA, who tested the battery and said it was bad. Oddly enough, they didnt check the battery until after doing the exchange and the battery tested good, but the exchange was already done in the system so they had me keep the new battery.

Was given a brand new alternator and 2 new door lock actuators with the car when I bought it (Private sale). AAA said the alternator was good when they tested the battery, but they also said the battery was bad which tested good. So I figured I have it already, might as well put the brand new one in. Took the original to AutoZone and had it bench tested, it was bad. Figured my battery drain issue was solved. Nope. Battery completely drained again after 2 days of not driving. Started researching this forum (This place is a goldmine!) and got some ideas for what to look for, one of them being door lock issues not letting the computer go to sleep. Took my multimeter and checked every fuse, finding that the only fuse with any draw whatsoever was the one responsible for the front driver door (FL DOOR) Power door lock system). Today I went out and replaced the actuator with one of the replacements that came with the car and - no dice. Still didn't work. Still locks/unlocks manually, but no luck as far as the buttons/electronic unlock/lock with the key goes (Key in the doors, I don't have a fob). Note: I did manually latch the door and hood, then waited 30 minutes before testing fuses.

The driver and maybe? the passenger window have an intermittent issue of not rolling up/down. Press button, it starts, then stops. Let go, press again, same thing. I know that's probably the relay, which I've already bought the relays to solder in a new one. Not a problem.

The courtesy light under the driver side door doesn't light up. I've removed it and checked the bulb, it isn't burnt out. When I replaced the actuator, I noticed that the wiring harness that plugs into the master switch has a wire (Blue with a black stripe) that was apparently cut and reconnected using crimp connectors.

Sorry for the big long wall of text, but the reason I typed everything here is because I'm stuck wondering what exactly may be the cause of the door still not working, as I think that's what's causing my drain. I was wondering if it had something to do with the sensors in the door lock assembly, but if I remember right, the door ajar light on the dash does come on when opening the driver door. I can check to confirm, though. If anyone has any ideas, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

The door lock actuator has the door ajar switch as part of it [lock/unlock motor and the switch that says the door is open/closed].

Salim

 

That's what I had read; Do you think that's where the issue is? I wasn't sure since neither the original actuator or the replacement one that I was given worked at all. I don't believe the replacement to be OEM, for what it's worth. Neither one seem to even make any noise when pressing the button. Would I need to replace the entire assembly or just the actuator itself? I just realized I hadn't said what year, if that matters. It's a 2001

 

The door ajar sensor when working will turn off the dome light and if remains lit, we all know that it drains the battery.

People have reported that the control panel on the passenger side [may be the driver side] door panel has drained the battery.

I am only relaying what I recall. My personal experience is limited to replacing the motor.

Salim

 

I am experiencing the same issue. But, what I did was put a multi-meter to the plug that goes into the actuator and set the meter to DC volts and tested when I push the lock and unlock to see if the meter picks up any reading. It did not, I pressed lock and unlock multiple times and meter had no readings. Now I am not sure what to do next. Has anyone has experience with the driver door wire harness and where it could possibly have shorted? I believe there may be a short in the wire harness some where, but I wanted to know is it possible to replace the wire harness and how hard is it to do?

 

Get hold of circuit diagram to help you diagnose.

A short can cause a drain, but most likely something is being energized un-necessarily as short ends up a a large current draw and typically pops a fuse.

On the other hand an open is more likely as a break but that does not end up as current draw [unless the open causes something to energize through relay logic ... very possible with door locks].

Replacing a harness is going to be time and purchase price expensive ... unless you procure the harness from salvage yard. The harness are typically not A-B connections and they are grouped with other wires leading or terminating ... almost like tentacles.

Best is to repair or bridge once you find the short. But again you will need the circuit diagram.

Salim

PS: Opens/shorts happen due to wires rubbing against something to grind down the insulation. Typical place would be around the door hinge as the wires flex every time the doors is operated. Personally I think Lexus has done a superb job in building and securing wire harnesses. Things can go wrong [20 + years of use] and if some one did not put the harness back when they worked on it.