Safe to reset ECU with fuse method?
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Safe to reset ECU with fuse method?
Hey guys,
I came across a few posts here that discussed resetting the ECU if car has become sluggish from daily driving. My car received a new fuel pump at 7k and fuel pump reflash right after for the buzzing noise. If I was to use the fuse ECU reset method by pulling out ETCS AND EFI fuse, would it affect the reflash in any way? Any reasons you do not recommend an ECU reset?
I came across a few posts here that discussed resetting the ECU if car has become sluggish from daily driving. My car received a new fuel pump at 7k and fuel pump reflash right after for the buzzing noise. If I was to use the fuse ECU reset method by pulling out ETCS AND EFI fuse, would it affect the reflash in any way? Any reasons you do not recommend an ECU reset?
#3
Lexus Test Driver
I’m not totally positive on this, but fairly sure.
The ecu makes the car goes fast in two ways. One is learning your driving habits. The other is via knock, or the lack of.
If you just start driving more aggressively, the computer will add the new data to old and average it out.
If you start with a blank ecu and drive hard from get go, guess your ecu will have mostly aggressive driving data, thus faster car, but...
The knock sensor data has a numerical rating. Think it goes from like 1 to 14, something like that.
The more you drive hard without any knock detection, the more your ecu will advance the timing and make the car faster.
Thus you want to have good quality high octane gas, and shift in higher rpm to eliminate potential for knock.
That knock number gets cleared if you clear ecu or disconnect battery for a decent amount of time.
It will then go back to lowest number, so your car will have the least amount of timing/slowest.
Personally I wouldn’t clear ecu. Just run it hard from time to time and it will relearn.
May be someone more knowledgeable can comment or correct if I’m wrong.
The ecu makes the car goes fast in two ways. One is learning your driving habits. The other is via knock, or the lack of.
If you just start driving more aggressively, the computer will add the new data to old and average it out.
If you start with a blank ecu and drive hard from get go, guess your ecu will have mostly aggressive driving data, thus faster car, but...
The knock sensor data has a numerical rating. Think it goes from like 1 to 14, something like that.
The more you drive hard without any knock detection, the more your ecu will advance the timing and make the car faster.
Thus you want to have good quality high octane gas, and shift in higher rpm to eliminate potential for knock.
That knock number gets cleared if you clear ecu or disconnect battery for a decent amount of time.
It will then go back to lowest number, so your car will have the least amount of timing/slowest.
Personally I wouldn’t clear ecu. Just run it hard from time to time and it will relearn.
May be someone more knowledgeable can comment or correct if I’m wrong.
#4
Lexus Test Driver
Simple answer is, drive it in manual/sport+ mode. Use downshifts whenever you get a chance while slowing down. Accelerate hard through 1st gear, shift up to second and then let off. While merging into freeway, find gaps at around 40 mph then downshift a couple of gear to 2nd and redline it in each gear and then let off. All of them are very safe while staying in legal limit.
Also, if you have Octane 93 or Octane 94 available in your city, I highly recommend it. It really wakes up the car since it is a very high compression engine.
ECU learns from the driver's behavior. If you drive excessively in auto mode with normal or ECO mode, it will dial back everything to focus more on efficiency rather than maximum performance.
Also, if you have Octane 93 or Octane 94 available in your city, I highly recommend it. It really wakes up the car since it is a very high compression engine.
ECU learns from the driver's behavior. If you drive excessively in auto mode with normal or ECO mode, it will dial back everything to focus more on efficiency rather than maximum performance.
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GunnyFitz (08-13-18)
#5
Instructor
AHHHHH. (Mingo & Rolla)
So THIS is what yoos guys mean by "Artificial Intelligence" within our Cars?
Without starting a whole new debate, or hijacking APaul's Thread - My Break In Procedures have always been hard from Day One!
Every vehicle I've ever owned, Ducati included, has been driven off the lot the exact same way I intend to drive it forever - and that's worked 110%
I "Assume" that my ECU has been informed there is an Armytrix Exhaust attached now and adjusted itself accordingly? No lights for me.
Is your dash throwing any Lights or Trouble Codes APaul?
So THIS is what yoos guys mean by "Artificial Intelligence" within our Cars?
Without starting a whole new debate, or hijacking APaul's Thread - My Break In Procedures have always been hard from Day One!
Every vehicle I've ever owned, Ducati included, has been driven off the lot the exact same way I intend to drive it forever - and that's worked 110%
I "Assume" that my ECU has been informed there is an Armytrix Exhaust attached now and adjusted itself accordingly? No lights for me.
Is your dash throwing any Lights or Trouble Codes APaul?
#6
Driver
Thread Starter
Like always great information! I have recently started to drive more in manual and having a blast! No codes on the car. I just thought mb there was something to ECU reset. I won't be doing it since everyone here suggests to just drive it harder and it will learn by itself. Thx everyone!
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GunnyFitz (08-13-18)
#7
Lexus Test Driver
Like always great information! I have recently started to drive more in manual and having a blast! No codes on the car. I just thought mb there was something to ECU reset. I won't be doing it since everyone here suggests to just drive it harder and it will learn by itself. Thx everyone!
If you want the car to really be light on the feet, inflate your rear tires to 38 psi and fronts to 36 psi. The stock Michelin PSS tires have soft sidewalls for better drivability. However, once you inflate it a bit higher, they reasonably stiffen up making the sidewalls stay straight under most cornering loads.
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#8
Pole Position
Mingo hit the nail on the head with the knock data, and Rolla with the use of better gas goes right along with that... in fact performance ECU flashing leverages those thresholds up for higher octane gas and more aggressive knock/timing values. This is where most of the extra performance comes from.
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05RollaXRS (08-14-18)
#9
Lexus Champion
Like always great information! I have recently started to drive more in manual and having a blast! No codes on the car. I just thought mb there was something to ECU reset. I won't be doing it since everyone here suggests to just drive it harder and it will learn by itself. Thx everyone!
#10
Pit Crew
iTrader: (1)
I just bought a 2016 RCF yesterday and found that it doesn't get off the block quite as quick as my 1st-gen IS350. First thing came to mind is I need to reset the ECU on this car. Can someone answer the original question: is it safe to reset by pulling the fuse? Also, does it work by doing it this way vs. disconnecting the battery neg. terminal? I would hate to do the latter because not being familiar with this car yet, I don't know what else will get reset.
Last edited by buister; 09-25-18 at 02:57 PM.
#12
Lexus Champion
#15
Lexus Champion
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