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Hi! Have you guys ever experienced your right front seat stop working? It was about 2 months after I got the car or 2 weeks after I had it hardwired for a Police Radar power source. I'm pretty sure it was working after the custom police radar power source. I haven't even used the power source since I'm still waiting for the radar to come. So, I don't think it was that or maybe yes. I had it done at my local BestBuy.
I went to my dealer and it was there for about 2 days trying to figure out what went wrong. It turns out the 30 amp fuse blew up or died.
I'd NEVER trust such a place to do any wiring on a modern car man. And even if I did, I'd absolutely prohibit them from piercing any wiring. The only way to do such an installation without touching the car's wiring is thru a piggyback fuse adapter (add-a-fuse, etc). And you have to use a slot with more power than the accessory you're installing. The best alternatives are empty or rarely used accessories with enough power, like the power seats. Check your fuse box to see what kind of job they did, before you just replace the fuse. And it's always better to check any such problems before taking car to a dealership, since they can void your electrical warranty if the job was shoddy (yours sound like it). Hopefully it'll be just a blown fuse with no electrical damage, but you have to check why it blew by checking the wiring before just replacing it. Also hope they didn't pierce any insulation, since installers love to use those stupid blue/red splicers because it's the easiest way. Good luck, and sorry you had to learn such lesson the hard way.
I agree with EPL_JC. I "hard-wired" my dash cam using an available (open) fuse slot under the dash using an add-a-fuse. For radars, you can use something called a mirror-tap. Super easy.
I'd NEVER trust such a place to do any wiring on a modern car man. And even if I did, I'd absolutely prohibit them from piercing any wiring. The only way to do such an installation without touching the car's wiring is thru a piggyback fuse adapter (add-a-fuse, etc). And you have to use a slot with more power than the accessory you're installing. The best alternatives are empty or rarely used accessories with enough power, like the power seats. Check your fuse box to see what kind of job they did, before you just replace the fuse. And it's always better to check any such problems before taking car to a dealership, since they can void your electrical warranty if the job was shoddy (yours sound like it). Hopefully it'll be just a blown fuse with no electrical damage, but you have to check why it blew by checking the wiring before just replacing it. Also hope they didn't pierce any insulation, since installers love to use those stupid blue/red splicers because it's the easiest way. Good luck, and sorry you had to learn such lesson the hard way.
@ELP_JC I think I did see him use the blue/red splicers and used a relay or something. I have to double check with him. I'm going to ask him about the add-a-fuse if he didn't use one. So far, the dealership checked it and didn't say anything about an electrical damage. And I told them what I did before and they didn't charge me anything.
Originally Posted by ThaDRD
I agree with EPL_JC. I "hard-wired" my dash cam using an available (open) fuse slot under the dash using an add-a-fuse. For radars, you can use something called a mirror-tap. Super easy.
How often do you use your dash cam? Is it continuously? And dash cam do you have? The mirror-tap seems pretty cool too. Is it this one? http://www.mirrortap.com/
How often do you use your dash cam? Is it continuously? And dash cam do you have? The mirror-tap seems pretty cool too. Is it this one? http://www.mirrortap.com/
My dash cam is always on but only records when there is movement (which is all the time when driving, and when something happens in front of it while parked).
Yes, that is the mirror tap website, but that's only for radar detectors.
Indeed. And fully reversible, without touching the car wiring. It's a must for the RC-F IMO, with the only 12V outlet in the center console. Add their ingenious anodized-aluminum BlendMount bracket for a truly custom touch (no suction cups). Pics attached for your viewing pleasure . Hope this helps.
@ThaDRD: Thanks for the info. How does it look on your car? Can you post some pics?
@ELP_JC: Nice pics. I also got the Blendmount. Which police radar is that? I got eh Passport Escort Max2 then, I saw the pre-order for Max360 so, I returned mine.
Update: My front right seat is working now for a few weeks now. I also attached my police radar to the existing "hotwired" power source and so far no problems.
@ThaDRD: Thanks for the info. How does it look on your car? Can you post some pics?
Here you go. The cable is tucked in the headliner, runs behind the driver's side A-pillar cover, and through and available hole in the dash to the fuse box. I made sure to run the cable behind the airbag and used the shop manuals so I wouldn't break anything.
It's the official Lexus/Toyota/Scion site for all shop manuals, wiring diagrams, service bulletins, and more. Same exact stuff the dealers use. It's $15 for 2-day access, $75/month, or $400 for the year.
I want to BUY one, not rent it. So can't buy it anymore? Man, that's BS. That kind of crap is what causes the black market. Will look for one on eBay before promoting that behavior. I'm willing to pay Lexus for a new manual, either in .pdf file, DVD/CD or in print. But not going to pay like that. Thanks anyway.
I want to BUY one, not rent it. So can't buy it anymore? Man, that's BS. That kind of crap is what causes the black market. Will look for one on eBay before promoting that behavior. I'm willing to pay Lexus for a new manual, either in .pdf file, DVD/CD or in print. But not going to pay like that. Thanks anyway.
If you have the time and patience, you can download each chapter/section as PDFs.
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