I finally finished modding my 2022 rcf fuji with full boltons and was really looking forward to the dyno, i have seen what 2020 track editions have done on the dyno so i was super excited for my results, only to be shocked by the numbers and dyno graph. The car was running a bit rich, but what was extremely shocking was the timing of the car, which was 11. Im not sure where the issue is, the graph is a complete mess, so i dont know where to start looking for the problem. The problem is i did not do a baseline run before the mods.car has no tune, but i was not expecting the numbers and timing of the car to be this bad, please advise where i can start looking for the issue, some have suggested that the air intake maybe the problem. I though maybe its a problem with the dyno, i did a street test with a fellow 2022 fuji ( although i dont condone it but was on an empty back road ) that only has a midpipe on everything else is stock, i barley kept up with him and he started to sightly pull away.

P.S on day of the dyno i cleaned my K&N filter and throttle body dont know if that had anything to do with this.

Below are the performance mods on the car.

*RR racing pullys
* Icode borted throttle body
* lems intake elbow
* GruppeM carbon intake system with K&N oiled filter
* PPE EL headers
* R1 titan titanium midpipe resonated
* R1 titan titanium axel back

runs on 5th and 6th gear
on dyno jet 4wd dyno,
95 octane fuel

 

Wow! Those are indeed seriously low numbers for the mods on the car. Even on a pessimistic dyno, it seems to be off by about 40 - 50 whp with the mods you have. What kind of fuel are you using? I would assume, in Middle East you get very high quality fuel? That is usually the first place you need to look at as bad fuel causes pre-detonation and as a result of that, the ECU will pull timing. RCF seems to be very sensitive to the the fuel type you use (being high compression). I feel a noticeable difference even between Octane 91 and Octane 94 (US rating system, which is an average of RON and MON or Octane 99 for Euro RON system). Since Bahrain is near sea level elevation, I would also not expect power loss due to high elevation either.

 

Here's a few fairly simple things to check:

K&N Filter - only issues with these happen during cleaning, a lot of time they get over oiled. You can try dabbing it will towels to get rid of excess. Then use a MAF cleaner to clean up the MAF.

Double check everything, specifically looking for good seals and no vacuum or exhaust leaks.

Time since ECU reset or battery disconnect. Also related: KCLV. The ECU needs time to relearn after a reset. KCLV starts at 15 then goes up from there after doing hard pulls. Usually a KCLV in the 22-26 range is considered good. Any good scan tool, or dongle/app with advance Toyota PIDs will be able to monitor KCLV for you. If you're below 15, then something is wrong with the car.

How many pulls did you do on the dyno? RR has a good post here that shows that it takes a good 6 pulls for the car to reach max power. This lines up with street testing when bumping KCLV back up after a reset. Takes about 10-12 pulls to get both the low rpm and high rpm KCLV back up to a good range.

Last, raw numbers off dynos are notoriously unreliable. Some read "low" and other read "high" just depends on the calibration and correction factors being use. Without a baseline of your car, it's hard to tell if the HP numbers you're seeing are bad or good. Really a dyno is good to show the "difference" between mods/tunes, so I wouldn't get too hung up on comparing your values to a different dyno on the other side of the world. However, a comparison to your friends car on that same dyno would actually be a fairly good test.

 

So OP….did you ever get a tune to help those parts work efficiently?

 

What are the numbers for a stock RCF at the wheels?

 

Typically 390-400 whp.

 

LOL, "car is running a bit rich" ... posts picture of flames shooting out exhaust... love it.

Anyway here is my thought on this, I do not know much about this larger throttle body you have but how much bigger is it and did you calibrate the ECU to this larger throttle body?

With a larger TB you will flow more air then normal with less throttle input which can make the ECU think you are decelerating, which would create a fuel and timing cut.

Also throw that K&N air filter in the trash where it belongs. Those let through so much debris it is crazy. Get yourself an AFE drop in dry filter.